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  1. #41
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    Mr Dualvalve, I will def follow those tips on clean up!

    She should be here the 24th with a little luck, just in time for Christmas.

    I really like the price on the new tube replacements, under 300 for the pair!

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    I agree with most that this seems to be a well maintained or likely a "cleaned up" lathe. I'm sure a buyer can't go too far wrong for the the right price. I've taken pause however on what seems to be the white elephant in the room. What is the real condition of the lathe?
    seems pretty clear to me its been repainted. It might in awesome shape, but being painted, looks don't tell much about the life its had. For any make/model of machine, its condition and tooling that determines what its worth.....hard to tell that from here, imo.

    As for voltage, rather than convert, I'd get a three phase transformer. Always seems like there are lots for sale for not too much money.
    Last edited by Mcgyver; 12-22-2019 at 03:55 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nobrakese28 View Post
    I really like the price on the new tube replacements, under 300 for the pair!
    Even BETTER news is that Tim - the developer - is still actively engaged in making sure they work and last.

    If improvements are needed, I am confident he will determine which - then implement such improvements if/as/when a need is established.

    Not a lot wrong with tubes. For-damned-sure they had earned the award as to "well proven technology".

    Even so, AFAIK, no one is still working on them as to "futures".

    Voltage? I'd drop it down because it is dead-easy. Move ISTR four taps, adjust with a meter. 100% of that is basic labour. Doesn't need a thin dime of spend on transformers nor space to house such.

    As to wear? One other "sure thing". "Nice" or not-so-much, new and "virginal" it is no longer.

    Why borrow trouble? Looks as if you are better-off than MOST of us, worst-case.

    Check it out. Fix what you must. JF RUN it and enjoy!


  5. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldCar View Post
    I'm LIKING those inspection results!
    Me too! Nice work on the inspection. The ways look much better than that first picture suggested. I'm not quite sure why but I would have guessed based on the picture there was some +10 thou worn down on the front v-way. Seems like there are still scrape marks visible on the tail stock flat way which is also good news.

    Yes that one picture in question is a "step" collet closer.

    I'm note sure if it has been mentioned here or you are aware, but just in case the bearings on the underside of the carriage are adjustable to set an appropriate clearance.

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  7. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    Note: make sure you at the very least test the carriage lubrication system, better to plan on getting a few chips in the paint job and remove the bottom of the apron, clean out the sump, clean or replace the pump filter. Then check the function of every lubrication port onto the ways and the gears and clutches.. The checking of the ways is not too difficult, I'm not sure how to check the drip tubes for the gears and clutches.. a flexible fiber-optic borescope? or just disassemble and clean.. probably best to just do it right, clean it out, inspect for wear, and clean all the ports and oil-grooves.. clean the way-wipers or replace..
    Sort of like 'bonding' with your new lathe.. :-)

    DualValve
    Agreed, remove and tear down the apron and put it back in tip top shape. It is a task, but a must do service that probably is necessary unless for some magical reason the sump on the bottom of the apron comes off pristine clean.

    The task of doing that has been covered here in many threads.

  8. #46
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    Same here, on the original way pics looking bleak. Not so!

    As others have said, check/service oil systems and you’ll be in business!

    I fully serviced the taper attachment on mine (the usual: full disassembly, cleaning, new bearings, stoned off burrs, made a lens, bought the missing clamp).

    On oil, I only had to service the apron pump; meters and lines all are working great. I carefully flushed my headstock 5 or so times, and made a tiny adjustment on spindle bearing preload that someone had messed with incorrectly.

    Works PERFECT and has 2x the wear as yours. Gap from carriage to tail stock flat on mine was .003”

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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    Agreed, remove and tear down the apron and put it back in tip top shape. It is a task, but a must do service that probably is necessary unless for some magical reason the sump on the bottom of the apron comes off pristine clean.
    Even if it DID.. unless an immediate-prior-owner had been in there and replaced all the Bijur metering parts, it won't oil properly.

    "Short term".. whilst sessing-out what ELSE needs to be seen to?

    FWIW-maybe-NOTHING, but:

    I've relieved the under-bed ball-bearing rollers, raised the carriage a smidge, flushed-out all old crud 'till it has no more of even fretting-corrosion black smut left to donate.

    Shot it full of Wurth "hinge" lube. HHS-K, HHS-2000. Set 'er back down.

    Underside ways will need gummy crap gently scraped-off, and a fair bet the bearings are varnished-solid as well. They can be freed-up 'til you get new ones, but may never be quite "right" after being left that way.

    Why this lube?

    NO silicon, no graphite, no moly, no PTFE, no particulates of any sort at all. Won't f**k up yer priming and painting, later as Silicone lubes are wont to do.

    And one can easily get it OFF, later, as well, with a simple solvent wipe-down.

    Meanwhile... it is slipperier than greased poop of a mayo and bacon sandwich eating OWL until yah can get the Vactra flowing again!

  10. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    seems pretty clear to me its been repainting. It might in awesome shape, but being painted, looks don't tell much about the life its had. For any make/model of machine, its condition and tooling that determines what its worth.....hard to tell that from here, imo.

    As for voltage, rather than convert, I'd get a three phase transformer. Always seems like there are lots for sale for not too much money.
    A 10EE modular only requires single phase so a single phase transformer is all that is required.

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    Quote Originally Posted by labeeman View Post
    A 10EE modular only requires single phase so a single phase transformer is all that is required.
    The point.. is that we do not HAVE the situation wherein a MOTOR may have been wound/ rewound "only 440". The final-drive motor is nominal 230 V DEE CEE, all 10EE, needs nothing done to it at all.

    Most MG are dual-voltage strappable, to wit - the THREE phase drive motor of the Reliance flavour of a Ward-Leonard "motor-generator". "Most".

    All, repeat ALL, WiaD or Modular have all the transformer they need already onboard.
    Yah simply move the taps provided.

    Procedure is walked-through "Right here, on PM", if yah don't have the schematics from Monarch. Which one SHOULD order. They come with the per-S/N machine "as-built" specific manual.

    Lots of machine tools as might NEED a step-up or step-down transformer, certainly. No argument.

    The 10EE just isn't one that goes onto that list.

    Move the taps. They are already "there" and already "paid-for".

    Providing for dual-Voltage optioning prolly cost one whole US dollar to add when the transformer was wound, eons ago. So they JF DID that. Near-as-dammit "free", so why would they NOT?

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    813a7e5d-d42e-473e-87a5-15b48e51759d.jpg
    Requested and received from Monarch

  13. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac007 View Post
    813a7e5d-d42e-473e-87a5-15b48e51759d.jpg
    Requested and received from Monarch
    There yah have it. Now.. gots to not miss any potential advantages.

    The MONEY saved off the transformer not bought will buy a decent pair of new workboots. Two, even.

    The SPACE you didn't have to allocate to it is about right for a hamster-cage with chase-yer-own-ass exercise wheel. Which would allow you to place the crazed rodent, AKA "Chairman of the Bored" as seems to be involved in about one quote in every five, typical shop, get closer to where the work is done.

    If nothing else, it will remind you next time you quote that chasing your own ass isn't a very rewarding way to run a bizness.


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    Quote Originally Posted by labeeman View Post
    A 10EE modular only requires single phase so a single phase transformer is all that is required.

    I didn't know that, was thinking along the lines of I'd look to change things outside of the machine than in

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    [QUOTE=Mcgyver;3462897]I didn't know that, was thinking along the lines of I'd look to change things outside of the machine than in[/QUOTE

    The 1969 10EE I recently acquired was set up from the Factory as a 440 machine and whoever had it before me was running it on a 220 volt single phase using a Step up transformer. I eventually want to follow the instructions from Monarch to enable me to run it from 220 without the transformer. I simply have other tasks to do first before making those changes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    I didn't know that, was thinking along the lines of I'd look to change things outside of the machine than in
    Yah but.. it's like carrying a motorcar about on a flatbed all year long with three shifts of security guards 24 X 7 so yah don't have to get yer hands dirty changing a flat tire or be bothered locking and unlocking the damned doors.

    It was MADE to be dual-voltage. Where's the rocket insemination wizardry come in?

    Yah think this is expensive, complicated, or terrifying-risky?

    Just wait 'til you grows up and starts dating. Wimmin or otherwise.

  18. #55
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    Thermite, thank you for the information.

    Just to be clear, I understand the machine is factory 220/440v rated. But the machine will still requires 3-phase even if dropped to 220v?

    Thanks,

    Marco

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    Quote Originally Posted by nobrakese28 View Post
    Thermite, thank you for the information.

    Just to be clear, I understand the machine is factory 220/440v rated. But the machine will still requires 3-phase even if dropped to 220v?

    Thanks,

    Marco
    Machine does not require 3 Phase, unless there is a 3phase accessory like an 3phase coolant pump.

    My 1969 10EE has a Spray mist coolant system factory installed, but it is 110Volt, not 3 phase. My machine is running on 220Volt single phase.

  20. #57
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    The modular voltage conversion is easier on later machines, and some earlier machines if the tube filament transformers T7 T8 are labeled 230 volt. The low voltage transformers can be wired for both high and low voltage.
    The 460 volt filament transformers can not be wired for low voltage, but owners in the past have used a small buck up transformer just for T8 and T7 transformers, and converting the rest of the machine for low voltage with success.
    The T7 and T8 are located on the board at the base of the tubes.

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  22. #58
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    Would the transformers be the small boxes to left/right of the vacuum tubes in the tilt down panel?

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    Yes, at the base of the tubes left and right. The little one in the middle is the control voltage reference transformer.

    There were more then one brand, here is a Trenco low voltage filament transformer. These can be wire either way, the ones marked 400+ volts can not.



    Might be a good idea to write those numbers down.

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    Donie, thank you for the information.

    Looks like I lucked out and the machine has the lower voltage transformers. Does this mean there is a chance the machine is already 220v and they were incorrect about the 440?

    Either way I will check out the machine before applying power. I found a spare pulley in one of the cabinets, odd....

    The black is really growing on me...

    img-6939.jpg
    img-6940.jpg
    img-6941.jpg
    img-6942.jpg
    img-6943.jpg


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