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Correct bolt length to attach a 10EE to a pallet...

K. Byas

K. Byas

Plastic
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Location
Hickory, NC USA
I'm in the process of acquiring a '63 10EE and I'm starting to acquire materials for a pallet. I've searched through several of the rigging posts on this forum and can't find the answer I'm looking for. Assuming I want to through bolt a 10EE to a 4x4, what's the length of ⅝-11 bolt I would need? I'm planning on counter sinking the hole so I would be bolting through 3" of material. I'm planning on using ⅝-11 grade 8 bolts based on other recommendations in this forum. I am curious though if a grade 5 bolt or grade B7 would be sufficient for the job and why they would be insufficient if not. I'm not going to be penny wise or pound foolish here but am curious why a grade 5 bolt at 70% of the strength of a grade 8 bolt would not work to attach a 3500# ish lathe to a pallet. It should probably be obvious from that statement that I'm not an engineer :)

TIA,
Karl
 
I am an engineer and I'm sure a single 3/8" grade 5 bolt will swing in the air a 10EE all day long. NO worries on 5/8" whatever grade you get to hold it to a pallet. I do agree 5/8 is the right size .... at least on my older round dial. It is no small task to elevate the lathe and get dunnage under it including the extra distance required to run through bolts up from the underside to secure it to said dunnage. Not sure what your plan is there. Having some 4x4 under there secured to lathe will help stabilize it for sure. There are plenty of horror stories of lathes being face planted into the dirt and virtually destroying them...even from "qualified" and "experienced" riggers.

For my money I would be worried about picking the lathe and placing it on your trailer (presumably) at the source and picking the lathe and setting on the ground at the destination. On the trailer secure the hell out of it with HD nylon ratchet straps that won't allow it to tip and you will be fine.

I used and other folks have used a boom type carne wrecker/tow truck to pick the lathes at the source / destination for reasonable fees.
 
I used 1/2" all thread and it worked fine and 1/2" is plenty strong enough. I used 4"x6" PT which I like better than 4"x4". I took a rough between holes measurement but made one hole in each 4"x6" a slot so I could take them pre drilled knowing they would work if I was off a little. You also need to have a recess on the bottom holes/slots for the nuts and washers. The machine still sits on those 4"x6" as I like it a little higher.
 
I have a set of 10EE hold-downs that came from Mare Island shipyard, used to secure a 10EE to a pallet. They are free for the taking, either pick up or shipping if you pay the shipping cost.
 
2 pc of wood bolted under the machine will only help in transport It does nothing when you lift the machine with a forklift
You still have to lift it on the narrow base making it easy to tumble over I would at least ad some timber between these 2 pc of timber to create a wider base for the forks And without some rubber or wood between the forks and the machine it skids of the forks very easy too

Peter
 
Peter from Holland said:
2 pc of wood bolted under the machine will only help in transport It does nothing when you lift the machine with a forklift
You still have to lift it on the narrow base making it easy to tumble over I would at least ad some timber between these 2 pc of timber to create a wider base for the forks And without some rubber or wood between the forks and the machine it skids of the forks very easy too

Peter
Click to expand...

I never lift a top heavy machine from the bottom with a forklift. I have seen too many disasters. The 10ee manual shows to lift using a strap around the bed. Attach that strap to the forklift forks so the lathe hangs below. That way it can't tip.
 
Any top heavy machine should be lifted from the top if you can. The skid is needed for transport stability and when low ceilings don't permit an overhead lift.
A 4'x6' skid works well for a 10ee. I didnt see that the O.P. was going too use two rails. A 10ee has a three point bolt pattern.so a platform skid is needed. Narrow base width is the good reason to use at the least a 4' wide skid.
 
Last edited:
I plan on renting a drop 6x14 10k drop trailer like this. A place locally has them for a reasonable cost. Before I read some of the rigging posts on the forum, this was my first attempt at a pallet design:
Screen Shot 2021-03-01 at 11.38.45.jpg


Other than the 4x6's and ⅝-11 fasteners I've got the the materials to build the above on hand. After I pick this thing up, it's going to have to live on the pallet for a while until I get a kid out of college.

As stated before, it's a '63 square dial with the original drive train and ELSR. The paint looks awful but the ways look to be in good shape and all the bits work like they're supposed to. Not a deal but still a good bit better than buying something new from the Far East even if it needs some serious work. I'll post pics once the deal is sealed.
 
Superbowl said:
I never lift a top heavy machine from the bottom with a forklift. I have seen too many disasters. The 10ee manual shows to lift using a strap around the bed. Attach that strap to the forklift forks so the lathe hangs below. That way it can't tip.
Click to expand...


I am very well aware of that But none of the forkliftoperators know that
If there is space underneeth they lift it with the forks under the machine
I just now read he is hauling it himself

Peter
 
K. Byas said:
I plan on renting a drop 6x14 10k drop trailer like this. A place locally has them for a reasonable cost. Before I read some of the rigging posts on the forum, this was my first attempt at a pallet design:
View attachment 315321


Other than the 4x6's and ⅝-11 fasteners I've got the the materials to build the above on hand. After I pick this thing up, it's going to have to live on the pallet for a while until I get a kid out of college.
Click to expand...

You don't really need to make a full covered skid. An 8' long 4"x6" cut in half bolted on each end works great, especially with a pallet jack which you can rent cheap or buy used on Craigslist for $100-$150. The 4' sections act like outriggers so there is no way the machine can tip over in travel. A pallet jack is very handy to slide between the outriggers to maneuver it, other machines, work benches etc. around the shop. I screwed the 4"x6" to the bed of my trailer so it could not slide. ( Top was firmly strapped down.)

When the machine finds it's final resting place then cut one 4' piece in half and put the machine on the 2' sections. These 2' pieces of 4"x6" are much better than a skid as easier to clean under them and room to store stuff underneath.
 
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