DSG Type 13Z resto
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 202
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default DSG Type 13Z resto

    After getting the old girl home a year ago, have finally got some time to show her some love.
    The general plan is to have it in pieces, inspect / scrape / paint. The primary objective is to learn and have fun but bearing in mind I dont know what im doing, Im hoping the DSG experts can put their heads around the door from time to time.
    .jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    First up is the compound.
    I decided to make a gib for it in CI (gifted scrap). Im not sure if it supposed to be this way but i wanted the gib to bare on the compound slide way and dovetail.
    The gib mounting surface was scraped parallel to the top and bottom of the compound and is good to .0002.
    20140619_103813.jpg 20140619_103847.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Next i machined the slide. The slide surfaces were out by a good .007. Whilst it was in the machine i took a 0.025ish off the top to clear the compound, it had been previously been providing 'slide' duty .
    Using the compound as a master i scraped in the slides.
    20140619_214707.jpg 20140619_214714.jpg 20140619_214723.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Brunswick Oh USA
    Posts
    4,275
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4369
    Likes (Received)
    2506

    Default

    Looks like you DO know what you're doing! Keep the pics coming.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Behner View Post
    Looks like you DO know what you're doing! Keep the pics coming.
    Thanks Ray, but I can assure you im lite on experience in everything that will make up this thread, apart from the perhaps the painting bit. I'll make up for that with more pictures.

    Cheers
    D

  6. Likes leod liked this post
  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    I need a 50 degree straight edge to spot the compound slide dovetail.
    Starting with a lump of CI hewn from an old boat keel, I quickly found that you need to get under the scale if you like your tool. The other problem is it does an great job of hiding the the bit that someone welded (or whatever else that produced a FO hard spot),, the noise was unholy!
    20140620_173048.jpg
    After grinding out the offending spot I ended with this. At 2" x 2.5" x 19" i should have enough for one long one (slicing along its length at 50) saving some spare for future tools.
    20140620_225042.jpg

  8. Likes matt_isserstedt, dragracer1260, leod liked this post
  9. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Straight edge making fun.
    20140621_145417.jpg

    Time for some auto feed
    20140621_161500.jpg 20140621_171406.jpg

    Turned out pretty good, took about an hour.
    20140621_171539.jpg

  10. Likes matt_isserstedt, jmp, Botje, Mcgyver, rbdjr59 and 2 others liked this post
  11. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston TX
    Posts
    3,681
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    1741

    Default

    LOL, love the power feed system

  12. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    4,953
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2848
    Likes (Received)
    3163

    Default

    It'll be great to the see the girl come back to fine form!

    On the scraping, how are you planning the sequence? Here's the compound i did on mine. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...estion-216560/

    btw, you don't need 50 degrees, just something less than 50 to be able to tuck in there

    keep the pics coming!

  13. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alskdjfhg View Post
    LOL, love the power feed system
    Gota love the bungees

    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    On the scraping, how are you planning the sequence? Here's the compound i did on mine. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...estion-216560/
    Cheers for the link Mcgyver, interesting stuff. I think my path will be similar to yours, general gist as follows.
    i) Scrape compound flats to a plate. (done)
    ii) Scrape compound slide flats to compound. (done)
    iii) Scrape compound slide dovetails to straight edge, ensuring they are parallel. (with the SE im making)
    iiii) Scrape compound dovetails to the compound slides dovetails. (might scrape the the gib dovetail face separately, ill see what clearence ive got when im ready)

    I understand what youre saying re the SE not needing to be 50 degrees. Am doing it that way for the following:-
    i) Dovetails are pretty small, tough id imagine to spot it as a single face.
    ii) I need a an 18" SE to scrape the dovetails on the saddle cross slide dovetails.
    iii) Overall, atm, I prefer the method involving 2 faces. But that might change

  14. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    After seemingly trying F it up on purpose (too small mag chuck, compound sine table, slipping cutter)



    I decided to strap it to the table with a couple of homemade dodads.





    The numbers are as follows. The flat face was 0 , 4 , 6 , 4 , 0



    And the angled face 2 , 4 , 0 , 4 , 2



    Feel free to suggest better ways of doing this stuff btw, im here to learn.

  15. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Arizona USA
    Posts
    642
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    607
    Likes (Received)
    182

    Default

    Nice power feed! Is that patented? Peoples ingenuity astounds me.

    Tim

  16. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by timvercoe View Post
    Nice power feed! Is that patented? Peoples ingenuity astounds me.

    Tim
    I cant claim it as my idea, i remember seeing it (or at least something like it) on YT here

  17. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    So i started to scrape the prism today, heres a quick walk through of what i did.

    After 3rd blueing of the bottom (flat face) after rough scraping, using a file to deburr.



    1 1/2" feeler getting grabby both sides.



    After 6th blueing.



    After 9th blueing, hit the floor baby!



    After 10th blueing, im calling that roughed in. Took about an hour


  18. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    And the angled side.

    Starting here.


    After 3 rubs.



    After 6 rubs.



    After 9 rubs. Chasing a hole.



    One rub later and its roughed in. Also about an hour.


  19. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Going for the finnish on the bottom surface. Using the stone instead of the file.

    After just stoning the roughed surface.



    3 rubs later, heavy blue, semi rough cross cutting, heavy stoning.



    6 rubs in, chasing some holes.



    9 or 10 rubs in, lite stone on the final pass and calling done on this face. Took about an hour and 20.



    Doesnt show so well in the pic but those little shiny highs all to the 1/10th or 2 is what its all about imho.


  20. Likes t.jones liked this post
  21. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    4,953
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2848
    Likes (Received)
    3163

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post


    Cheers for the link Mcgyver, interesting stuff. I think my path will be similar to yours, general gist as follows.
    i) Scrape compound flats to a plate. (done)
    ii) Scrape compound slide flats to compound. (done)
    iii) Scrape compound slide dovetails to straight edge, ensuring they are parallel. (with the SE im making)
    iiii) Scrape compound dovetails to the compound slides dovetails. (might scrape the the gib dovetail face separately, ill see what clearence ive got when im ready)

    I understand what youre saying re the SE not needing to be 50 degrees. Am doing it that way for the following:-
    i) Dovetails are pretty small, tough id imagine to spot it as a single face.
    ii) I need a an 18" SE to scrape the dovetails on the saddle cross slide dovetails.
    iii) Overall, atm, I prefer the method involving 2 faces. But that might change
    I've done the same in the past for and for the same reason...I just thought if you didn't know, the reference only needs one surface and to be acute to the dovetail....but you are ahead of me. The slight disadvantage is you are spotting with a linear back and forth vs the more random small orbital movement, but its not a game change imo.

    when you say file, a deburring file? (apologizes if i'm telling the choir how to sing)

  22. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
    Posts
    13,038
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    423
    Likes (Received)
    1005

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Cheers for the link Mcgyver, interesting stuff. I think my path will be similar to yours, general gist as follows.
    i) Scrape compound flats to a plate. (done)
    ii) Scrape compound slide flats to compound. (done)
    iii) Scrape compound slide dovetails to straight edge, ensuring they are parallel. (with the SE im making)
    iiii) Scrape compound dovetails to the compound slides dovetails. (might scrape the the gib dovetail face separately, ill see what clearence ive got when im ready)
    Don't forget to get a set of dowel pins or pin gages and mic the bottom dovetail over the pins for parallelism in several spots as you go down the length. It won't be good to have that tapered and it will need to be straightened via scraping to fit like its supposed to.

  23. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1372
    Likes (Received)
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    I've done the same in the past for and for the same reason...I just thought if you didn't know, the reference only needs one surface and to be acute to the dovetail....but you are ahead of me. The slight disadvantage is you are spotting with a linear back and forth vs the more random small orbital movement, but its not a game change imo.

    when you say file, a deburring file? (apologizes if i'm telling the choir how to sing)
    I understand mate, and it makes good sense to me. IE If you have 50° surface to spot and only have 45° master you can still make work handsomely. Im guessing the taller the dovetail, the easier it would be to get a reliable print.

    The file i used to debur when roughing is just an old dreadnought file that ive lapped. I find it cuts down turnaround time between rubs (no spirit residue to clean up).

    No worries on the "singing to choir" front, this is the first dovetail ive scraped, first machine ive really had at. All input is welcome in all areas, especially when it becomes more challenging later.

    Quote Originally Posted by matt_isserstedt View Post
    Don't forget to get a set of dowel pins or pin gages and mic the bottom dovetail over the pins for parallelism in several spots as you go down the length. It won't be good to have that tapered and it will need to be straightened via scraping to fit like its supposed to.
    Wildo matt. I did order some dowel pins after watching Nicks excellent video a while back. Just goto find em now

  24. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    692
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    208

    Default

    On posts #11, 14, 15, 16 pictures don't load for me, tried the F5 and everything


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •