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Exciter internal wiring. Who knows how to wire the fields?

L

lectrician1

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Location
Las Vegas
There are ten wires in my exciter. 1945 10ee MG.
there are two windings with 4 wires each and two wires for the brushes

right now i am getting about 112v dc out of my exciter but the voltage drops significantly when i start the spindle at the highest RPM
it drops 30v. sometimes the spindle starts sometimes it doesnt and the contactor drops out.

FA relay doesnt operate but that is a separate problem
I have an electronic 120vdc power supply that will start the spindle at all speeds flawlessly when i use it in place of the exciter.

Can anyone tell me how the field windings and the brushes need to be spliced inside the exciter for proper operation?
Previous owner had it completely wrong. I have to start from scratch.

I saw the hand written schematic that is posted on PM from peter222 IIRC. But i can't figure out the orientation of the drawing.
This is a piggyback exciter

Thanks
Rich
 
The field need to be in series lets say the top lead is positive and the negative lead is negative that means you need to connect top lead of one to the bottom lead of the other pair. If you are getting a decrease in voltage when you load the exciter generator that means on the larger wires field you need to reverse them.
 
I don't suppose that there are any tags on the leads?

Way out of my area of knowledge here, but if you spin the exciter with the leads disconnected and read the voltages across each pair, that should tell you the polarity of each winding.

Rich, can you please post the measured resistance of each winding? Make sure you check each winding for shorts to the case or another windings.

Cal
 
no tags anywhere
no markings
no colors
everything is black
i did measure the resistance of all four windings
the shunts matched and the series field matched. i dont remember the readings.
i didn't measure to ground though.
 
so are you saying i should reverse the polarity of the series field wires and leave the shunt field wires as they are?
or should i reverse the polarity of both?
 
Glad that worked now you can adjust the resistor for the desired voltage. Go make some chips.
 
Could or would one of you gentlemen draw a schematic of the field leads [wires] and brush leads [wires] ?
Could you draw it such that it is oriented with the actual items in the exciter?

When a person looks at the wires, if they are not numbered or labeled, jus show do you determine if the previous worker put the correct wires together?

Anything to help a guy sort through the wiring in his exciter to see if it is wired right or wrong...

Thanks.
DualValve.
 
i sent you a drawing of my exciter wiring. i tried to download on PM but the pic is small and oriented wrong. could you try downloading and resizing my email pic?
 
Rich,

I added your diagram to post #15 and I'll delete the other thread where you also tried to upload it.

There's something REALLY funky about the file format that your iPhone produces. I tried resizing it to under the 100kb limit and it still came in as a tiny image. It crashed my main photo editing program (Corel Draw 7) when I tried to load it. I finally had to convert it to Targa format and back to get rid of whatever weird stuff Apple put in there.

Cal
 
Cal Haines said:
Rich,

I added your diagram to post #15 and I'll delete the other thread where you also tried to upload it.

There's something REALLY funky about the file format that your iPhone produces. I tried resizing it to under the 100kb limit and it still came in as a tiny image. It crashed my main photo editing program (Corel Draw 7) when I tried to load it. I finally had to convert it to Targa format and back to get rid of whatever weird stuff Apple put in there.

Cal
Click to expand...

was wondering what happened to that thread! LOL
 
Rich asked me to post the pic, but I see Cal fixed it. I don't know what funkyness is going on with Apple either, but my solution is I take pics with iphone, email to myself, I use yahoo mail, make duplicates of the downloaded pictures on my Mac, delete the originals and then on each "***copy.jpg" rotate left 90, rotate right 90, and then save, and then the picture uploads properly. Rich uses the cloud rather than emailing to himself, the cloud messes up somehow.

My procedure sounds like a pain in the A, but it only takes a moment.
 
yes the rheostats are in the circuit
it is possible that the patched rheostat has a less than specified ohm resistance.
i didn't check it.
it is working though
i will check and report back after i receive yours and remove the patched one
i will also take pics and try to upload them half a dozen times
 
my repair ain't bubbadized
someday the only option will be to repair these things
pics to follow of my rheostat repair
it might be made into a sticky
 
Huge thanks to Rich ! Your drawing will definitely make sorting through anyones exciter MUCH easier..
For me, trying to identify individual, all black wires, covered in decades of black carbon-brush dust and sticky with vapor from
coolant systems... well you know, and get the picture.

Your drawing will I'll bet become a sticky or become part of Cal's 'No Exciter Voltage' sticky .

I would describe your drawing as 'invaluable'...

Also major thanks to Cal for sorting out the nuances of getting the image to be downloadable..
and posted in the appropriate post..

And thanks to others for support on this subject... for many folks, they apparently have a 'mental picture' of what the
fields, shunts, current, etc is doing.. I'm just happy to understand that the armature is breaking the magnetic field and that is where the current is generated in the armature, and picked up by the brushes !!

I will learn as this goes on,, and THAT is what makes this 'old iron disease' so addictive. LOL

DualValve
 
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