Flood coolant on 10EE
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  1. #1
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    On a whim I decided to rebuild the coolant pump on my 10EE - the lines leading to and from it were pretty crudded up, so I figured that the pump itself would be bad. It was, being filled with rust and junk, the seal frozen and the impeller locked. The motor was in good shape and convinced me that it'd be a good thing to get it all working. After cleaning the pump out it looks OK, good enough to order a new seal kit to get it working.

    What I don't have is the plumbing after the pump - I have a hydraulic hose leading to a shop-made connection on the back of the carraige, but nothing from there up. Maybe some kind soul out there could take some pictures of the plumbing from there on out - in the brochures it looks like some pretty standard piping (stuff that tempts me to plumb up some loc-line and call it good).

    Finally, if I do use this I need a coolant that is not at all water-based, something I can leave alone for a couple of months w/o it going all rancid on me. I know folks that use a mixture of ATF and other stuff, anyone have any comments?

  2. #2
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    "What I don't have is the plumbing after the pump - I have a hydraulic hose leading to a shop-made connection on the back of the carraige, but nothing from there up."

    My '45 has a hose coming out of a hole in the rear of the base casting.

    The coolant pump outlet has a right-angle bend and a brass fitting which looks to be about 1/4" I.D., and which connects directly to that hose.

    I guess the functional end of that hose goes to the owner's "fixture de jour".

    The coolant pump inlet is somewhat larger in I.D. ... makes sense as this is the low-pressure side ... and is a manufactured (crimped), metal reinforced hose with integral brass fittings, and which is threaded into the 10EE's sump.

    The pump motor is a C-face 1/4 HP unit, and is three-phase 208-240/480 volts with an integral base. Frame 56C.

    Too bad C-face single-phase motors with integral bases are "unobtanium".

    My '56 was manufactured without a coolant pump, but I was able to find a pump system from a parted-out machine.

    Sadly, my '56's base is NOT drilled and threaded for installation of the pump.

  3. #3
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    I think I have the all the original coolant
    plumbing. No big whoop, just some flexible
    hose that goes to a pipe that screws on the
    carriage. I'll post you a pix after I round the
    stuff up. The stuff I use is Rustlick 50/50.
    It is a chlorinated coolant and seems not to go
    rancid. Kinda leaves a oily residue that doesn't
    rust either. It smells ok too.

  4. #4
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    "I'll post you a pix after I round the stuff up."

    Thanks, Daryl.


    "The stuff I use is Rustlick 50/50. It is a chlorinated coolant and seems not to go rancid. Kinda leaves a oily residue that doesn't rust either. It smells ok too."

    Excellent!


    At least on my '56 WiaD, I'm going to single-phase the coolant pump by making the motor a self-starter (potential relay type) so the entire machine can run on single-phase.

    For some reason, the guy who formerly owned my '45 changed the electrical primary so that the coolant pump comes on with the fusible safety switch.

    The schematic shows a two pole single throw switch for the coolant pump, but there is none in evidence on my '45.

    The transformer for the "Motor Generator ON" lamp was disconnected, too, so perhaps there was some kind of failure which lead to the wholesale rewiring of the primary side.

    Oh, well ... it IS almost sixty years old!

  5. #5
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    <<
    At least on my '56 WiaD, I'm going to single-phase the coolant pump by making the motor a self-starter (potential relay type) so the entire machine can run on single-phase.
    >>

    I'm planning on that as well, I just need to scrounge the the parts and some space in which to install it. I haven't looked, but there might be room in the housing with the switch.

    The pump I'm getting going is the one that came with the lathe in '56. Interestingly, the bosses in the casting in the rear of the pump housing are not tapped, instead the bottom of the housing is tapped in the front and through-bored in the rear.

  6. #6
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    "Sadly, my '56's base is NOT drilled and threaded for installation of the pump."

    By this I meant that although the sump is drilled and tapped, and has a pipe plug plugging the sump's outlet, the bosses where the coolant pump's integral motor mount would sit are not drilled and tapped.



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