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Thread: gearbox

  1. #1
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    I would like to know how to get into the gearbox on a 10EE.

    Is it possible to get into the gearbox on a 10EE where the leadscrew and feedrods enter it? Can one just remove the cover that is bolted onto this side and gain access into the gearbox?

    [This message has been edited by sneebot (edited 02-24-2003).]

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    I'm not entirely certain what you are driving at, so let me describe my experiences....

    On my 1958 10EE, there is a facility to mount metric change gears. That can accessed without removing too much. Not having change gears I haven't actually tried using this feature, but I think you would probably have to take the belt out to actually get to the bolts and studs effectively.

    As for the "real" gearbox... You can look at your change gears easily enough by popping the selector faceplate off. To actually get into the gearbox, however, is a bigger deal. For that you pretty much need to remove it from the machine (memory only here). I had a backgear selector that was stuck (turned out that the oil had formed a shellac bridge I just could *not* budge without actually getting into the gearbox). Monarch also used a somewhat frustrating approach on their gearboxes. The would drill and tap the interface between the 'cap' and the gearbox and into that thread a set screw. It is quite effective, but when you are reassembling the guts, you have to line things up ever so carefully if you want to have the threads line up. Not impossible, but (for me) not one of the more enjoyable tasks either!

    Hope that helps....
    --Alan

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    So the headstock has to come off to get in there?

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    Oh goodness NO! I didn't mean to imply that! The gearbox can come out as a whole unit, beling slipped out the left side of the machine. Now comes the tough part.... memory... it has been awhile.

    As I recall, you must remove all of the belts. I think you also have to remove the transposing gearbox (where the metric change gears would go). Pulleys must be removed, as appropriate. Then there is also a plate below the front of the gearbox that must come off. This will expose some bolts; the remaining bolts can be easily viewed from the headstock end. Finally, I recall you must remove the speed pot, a few linkages and the lockout solenoid. I *know* the latter is required because I forgot that one! The result was that the gearbox functioned very well as a pair of scissors on the solenoid wires! Anyhow, that should be about it. After you've accomplished the above, the gearbox will slide out along the axis of the machine (i.e. not out the front). Oh, needless to say, the drive rod and leascrew must also be removed. I did this by removing the leascrew support on the tailstock end (all easier if you don't have electric leadscrew reverse).

    I am probably not the best person to answer your questions because it has been awhile since I did all of this. There are plenty of people on this list, though, that probably remove gearboxes (Alex, Dave [concentrates on round dial types], Harvey) on a regular basis. At the very least, however, I can absolutely tell you that you need not remove the headstock.

    Alan

    [This message has been edited by wrench (edited 02-24-2003).]

    [This message has been edited by wrench (edited 02-24-2003).]

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    You will need to remove the top 1/4 round
    cover off the top of the box. Remove the
    tumbler lever(at front of box) remove the two
    allen bolts holding the tumbler stop plate, the tumbler lever rod passes thru this and is bushed. After removing the plate, the rod
    should pull out. There maybe a burr to make this more difficult. Remove the two allen
    bolts holding the 1/4 round cover to the box.
    This cover should slide out exposing two
    Big allen bolts that hold the box to the ways. Now as said earlier, remove the small
    cover plate at the front bottom of the box,
    and this will expose two more bolts. You can
    now probably figure out what else you'll have to remove. Cheers Daryl

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys.


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