Getting a Monarch Series 61 Back in Service - Page 8
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  1. #141
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    Wanting to stick carriage on bed, but I was a little worried about the blue hose for the new oil supply. Whether it would put stress on small copper lines, and if I needing to change or adjust that line, I would have to lay on floor and try to work through the bottom of bed.

    So I decided to change to a pipe fitting I could reach while standing. And In that change, its real secure. I can add or remove fittings from the end, without twisting copper line.

    In this pic, I was holding carriage up with a chain fall, so chain links are visible in the center. When posting the pic, it took me a moment to figure what it was, lol.

    263.jpg

    With that done, I did a final cleaning of mating surfaces and stuck carriage on bed. You can the new supply fitting on tail stock side of carriage.

    264.jpg 265.jpg 266.jpg

    With the carriage up, plus more time to consider, I have my rough plan on the rest of the system and location of the parts. I'll post more on that later.

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    Putting that copper tubing into fractions your .050 drill is 1/100th shy of 1/16th of an inch. I bought some 1/16th copper to replace a oil line on a surface grinder. The outside diameter is just as important with those fittings you have.
    So you say its thin walled.
    The 1/16th tubing I purchased didn't work because the walls were thicker. Larger OD.
    So if you have to replace any don't make my mistake. I ended up soldering to repair
    Your being cautious. I cant believe those little filters and , that little umbrella part, bell end may be a check valve.

    Your getting it done. Now its easy too see why they clog up. Keep that pump reservoir clean.
    Looks good.

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  4. #143
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    Well, I guess the advice to "just run 'er !" was bullshit ! Good thing you ignored me. You sure are doing a nice job ....

  5. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanuelGoldstein View Post
    Well, I guess the advice to "just run 'er !" was bullshit ! Good thing you ignored me. You sure are doing a nice job ....
    Hey I appreciate all advice really. Getting different opinions helps think around problems. And to be fair, its not like you saw it in person, or have xray vision.

    I'm more mechanic, than machinist so I probably have a better comfort level with tearing stuff apart, than some others I think.

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  7. #145
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    I like the work you're doing, and enjoying this thread, with all the updates. Thank you. I have a Series 61, and I want to go through it one of these days, but I use it too much, and can't afford to have it down until I get another lathe in the shop to use first.

    Thanks again for taking the time. These are great, great lathes. I absolutely love mine, and you're going to love yours, too. Nothing it can't do.

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  9. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Hey I appreciate all advice really. Getting different opinions helps think around problems. And to be fair, its not like you saw it in person, or have xray vision.

    I'm more mechanic, than machinist so I probably have a better comfort level with tearing stuff apart, than some others I think.
    LOL! Only if you always have parts left over!

    Minimal tear-down, already more 10EE parts than I started with.. began to wonder if one of mine was male, the other female.. then recalled I had finally opened all the crates and boxes of the other 10EE bought-in from a part-out, left still packaged for several years.

    Oh well.

    Guess I could try for a younger mill?

    That Quartet combo mill with independent motors has got to be a self-fertilizing cultivar if ever was.


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  11. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    LOL! Only if you always have parts left over!
    I find a well practiced, straight faced reply helps explain: "A factory improved modification eliminates that."

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    I find a well practiced, straight faced reply helps explain: "A factory improved modification eliminates that."
    I just said: "They lost the damned WAR, didn't they?"

    - 1968 FIAT 124 DOHC .. don't even ASK!

    - 1972 and (slow learner!) 1986 BMW six.. with the f**ked up heads that crack.

    - 1981 Subaru - when dear friend Tadashi Nozake proudly said:

    "Same-same make fighter plane, "Oscar", World War Two!"

    All that one needed wudda been to replace the silly sheathed-speedo-cable clutch actuation that burn 'em out, three in a row for failure to slither.. with any basic juice clutch cylinder pairing, 1950's Standard Triumph to GMC S-10, etc,.

    Losing side, and maker's of military goods, all three of those!



    The Cazeneuve? Far too weird to have been a collaborator!
    Maquis / Jedburg mentality, if not Marseilles dockside "apache", if ever was!


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    I figured out what I want to do with the carriage lube system. In that, I'm going to use my own pump, but probably and aftermarket reservoir tank.

    The pump is off a hydra start system. Which uses a hydraulic system, and hydraulic starter to start diesel engines.

    I got a used pump for free. I checked it, and it still worked nice:

    269.jpg

    Even though it worked, I took it apart to clean and check it. Went ahead and cleaned up the outside while I was at it:

    270.jpg

    My intention is to mount it either directly to base on tail stock end, or build a little pedestal for it.

    I like the pump here, so I don't need to walk behind lathe, or reach across work to lube. Just standing there getting a visual, I can see carriage well from pump's location.

    271.jpg

    I'll be making up an 8"-10" handle with probably a 1.5 or 2" stainless ball on top of it.

  14. #150
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    The pics in this post I edited with Windows Paint, I'm no artist.

    The red lines will be 3/8" copper tubing. The blue line medium psi #5 or #6 flexible hose.

    I am going to mount the reservoir on the tool/collet post:

    273.jpg

    Looking from the back side of lathe. I only need two lube circuits. Res to pump, pump to carriage. The flexible blue line will deal with the carriage movement. The red copper lines will be fixed.

    274.jpg

    Visual aid from pump side:

    276.jpg

    And the carriage perspective. The two bolt holes on top side/rear are for follower rest. So I want to watch the path.

    275.jpg

    From this point, I'll leave the assembly of all this toward the end of the lathe build, as I begin dressing out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    I only need two lube circuits. Res to pump, pump to carriage.
    I think you have it covered.

    You won't really know about flow rates nor the balance of distribution, various points, until you have the carriage back on, loaded with its superstructure, and put it to actual turning.

    "Perfection" isn't likely, but so long as nothing is starved, a bit of excess consumption that moves-around, one area to another, depending on the nature of the work can probably be ignored for lack of any better compromise.

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  18. #152
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    Looking at that one pump on the pan. Would it make the handle hard to reach if you mounted it upside down to the bottom of the pan. It looks heavy enough to tap some holes for mounting. Just a thought.

  19. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by mllud22 View Post
    Looking at that one pump on the pan. Would it make the handle hard to reach if you mounted it upside down to the bottom of the pan. It looks heavy enough to tap some holes for mounting. Just a thought.

    I see thats sort of a rough draft. Thats a hell of a pump.

  20. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by mllud22 View Post
    Looking at that one pump on the pan. Would it make the handle hard to reach if you mounted it upside down to the bottom of the pan. It looks heavy enough to tap some holes for mounting. Just a thought.
    It is just a rough idea, but I think it will end up close to that location in the end. Where it is I can nearly stand straight to pump, and view carriage. However, I do need to mount end bearing on bed yet, for lead screw and other rods. So its still a little tentative.

    I think it could mount under, though I would have to stoop over or kneel to pump. I was also thinking I could mount on the same post as reservoir, but I'd need to walk around machine, which I'm trying to avoid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    It is just a rough idea, but I think it will end up close to that location in the end. Where it is I can nearly stand straight to pump, and view carriage. However, I do need to mount end bearing on bed yet, for lead screw and other rods. So its still a little tentative.

    I think it could mount under, though I would have to stoop over or kneel to pump. I was also thinking I could mount on the same post as reservoir, but I'd need to walk around machine, which I'm trying to avoid.
    Electric pump for me. Even if that's just a tiny motor with an eccentric moving the plunger on what HAD BEEN a mechanical or manual pump.

    Pushbutton pre-flight "primer". Parallel as-it-goes periodic replenish timer.

  23. #156
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    I should have known that you weren't going too leave the pump in the pan. I somehow skipped over the previous post where you explained more. Awoke from dozing off. An old man thing.
    When it comes to the bolting it on ergonomics will tell you where too put it. As a machine mechanic Ive learned that often little consideration is given to easy access for operator or mechanic. That makes a difference.
    Sitting in front of my monarch you get the feel that they did consider ease of operation. The 10ee anyway. Looking at your lathe the controls look user friendly also.

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  25. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by hawkfan9 View Post
    I like the work you're doing, and enjoying this thread, with all the updates. Thank you. I have a Series 61, and I want to go through it one of these days, but I use it too much, and can't afford to have it down until I get another lathe in the shop to use first.

    Thanks again for taking the time. These are great, great lathes. I absolutely love mine, and you're going to love yours, too. Nothing it can't do.
    Very true!

    And thanks from me for by taking the time to share the progress.

  26. Likes texasgunsmith liked this post
  27. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldCar View Post
    Very true!

    And thanks from me for by taking the time to share the progress.
    Thanks, and I really appreciate it.

    I have a few updates, but I need to push pause for a few weeks. I have another project almost finished, and I want to get it done to sell it. In the meantime, I have been collecting some parts and tooling for repairs on this.

    I did finish the clean up on compound, I may make some alterations to what I'm doing with it, undecided yet.

    The compound was run into the chuck a few times:

    285.jpg 169.jpg

    I cleaned the damaged area well, and used body filler to get it back to shape. I would have prefered to leave the top un-painted, but I didn't want to leave the repair exposed. I tried painting the entire top blue, hated it. Removed the paint. Thought about even lines to keep it symetrical, but came up with this. Its a little gay I think , but its what I got for the moment. May change it.

    284.jpg

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    I also picked up the acme thread tap, Cal linked me in post #110. But I have an idea, I plan to start a new thread about it. We'll see how that goes.

    287.jpg

    I picked up some hollow bearing bronze, c932, for the dial and shaft repair.

    286.jpg

    I also got F1 felt, 3/16" & 1/4", for wipers. And 1/8" F5 felt for oil pumps when I get to that.

    I'm also planning on specialized nuts to fit through hole in compound, for compound rest retaining studs. The squares on current bolts are not perfect fits and dig into the cast iron. I plan to make large fit nuts to slip in there. But that's another side adventure. . .

    288.jpg

  30. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    I also picked up the acme thread tap, Cal linked me in post #110. But I have an idea, I plan to start a new thread about it. We'll see how that goes.

    287.jpg

    I picked up some hollow bearing bronze, c932, for the dial and shaft repair.

    286.jpg

    I also got F1 felt, 3/16" & 1/4", for wipers. And 1/8" F5 felt for oil pumps when I get to that.

    I'm also planning on specialized nuts to fit through hole in compound, for compound rest retaining studs. The squares on current bolts are not perfect fits and dig into the cast iron. I plan to make large fit nuts to slip in there. But that's another side adventure. . .

    288.jpg
    That bondo repair looks fine. I did that on a compound and it held up well. The thump it makes bumping the cuck jaw on the repair is less aggressive and damaging. A built in buffer
    Best to never bump the chuck but it happens. When I'm that close I'm ready too back up. My 10ee has no marks of shame and hopefully never gets any.

    I think those square heads gouge out metal from people not loosening the nut enough before rotating the compound.
    Wondering if some modified T-nuts could work brazed to a stud.

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