Getting a Monarch Series 61 Back in Service - Page 9
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  1. #161
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    That's an interesting tap. I see it takes a conventional thread cut then finishes out to acme. Easier on the tap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    ...
    I'm also planning on specialized nuts to fit through hole in compound, for compound rest retaining studs. The squares on current bolts are not perfect fits and dig into the cast iron. I plan to make large fit nuts to slip in there. But that's another side adventure. . .

    Attachment 300053
    I don't know if it's the same on your Series 61, but 'T' part of the bolts on my 10EE aren't square, but are a section of ring. That is, radiused on both sides. I don't have a closeup of one, but you can see what it's like in this photo, above the big hole in the top slide:
    img_6577.jpg


    Cal
    ---

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  4. #163
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    Damn Cal ! You're stealing my future story.

    That's exactly what I want to make ! Not an exact plan, but in my head I was going to use a slotted drive plate on a lathe. Set up two pieces out on the drive plate, at about the diameter of the circle on compound. Length of the two pieces, to just clear into bottom entry hole. The cut would leave them radius-ed, hopefully a nice fit.

    Or just cut a full circle on lathe same diameter, then cut the two pieces out. But need more material this way.

    I don't have an idea as tee bolts, figured I make them nuts, and use studs same length as current bolts. Locktite studs in. I guess brazing them as mllud22 suggested is not a terrible option. I have time to think on it anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Damn Cal ! You're stealing my future story.

    That's exactly what I want to make ! Not an exact plan, but in my head I was going to use a slotted drive plate on a lathe. Set up two pieces out on the drive plate, at about the diameter of the circle on compound. Length of the two pieces, to just clear into bottom entry hole. The cut would leave them radius-ed, hopefully a nice fit.

    Or just cut a full circle on lathe same diameter, then cut the two pieces out. But need more material this way.

    I don't have an idea as tee bolts, figured I make them nuts, and use studs same length as current bolts. Locktite studs in. I guess brazing them as mllud22 suggested is not a terrible option. I have time to think on it anyway.
    The only reason that I can think of that they use the bolts is so it would be easy to set the compound down over the bolts and put nuts on. Lock-tite would be better. I braze everything, old school thinking.
    Your radiused nuts like Cal showed are the fix.

    My comment about the bondo being a built in buffer was dry humor but did work as a dull thump warning when I bumped the jaws. A little filler beats looking at gouges.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mllud22 View Post
    My comment about the bondo being a built in buffer was dry humor but did work as a dull thump warning when I bumped the jaws. A little filler beats looking at gouges.
    Nah. Just cut you a few slices out of a not fully-perished disk brake pad, and yer good to go with drop-in replacements!

    As to the CR hold-downs?

    Yes, ideally you'd want longer curved segments, even a full-circle ring. To GET a full ring, the center section has to be a separate piece, itself dowel-pinned with retention fasteners.

    Been done by others, elsewhere.

    Needs more DEPTH to it than we would want to give-up, here. Otherwise the ring simply distorts, remains distorted. And now you have a "binding" problem you did not previously have.

    Comes a point where improved rigidity is needed, a(ny) compound rest is simply removed and asided.

    A monolitic toolholder takes its place. USUALLY with an attach system more direct. Independent dowels and bolts, outside the compound's ring. It just isn't that hard.

    Galis, doing mining and rail rebuild work, most of it involving corn-cob DC stick-weld cutback, the compound spent a week or three at a go laying six feet down the chip tray. McCrosky 4-Way lifted into place with the overhead crane was all we needed, straight-in single-point threading included.

    The compound went back on for short tapers. Only.

    That 'scales" down as well as up, BTW.

    A compound is an accessory, not a necessity, watchmaker size to a Craven Brother's.

    Myfords, Boxfords, other tiny "British Model Engineering" favourites have relied on a "Gibralter" replacement for the compound to take better advantage of their very austere "stiffness rations" for ages.

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    Getting close to starting back on this. Picked up some oil I plan to use for this, and I think will become my "default" oil of choice for most related items. Going with DTE Heavy, which is equivilent to SAE 30w.

    I've been using DTE Heavy/Medium for other things. Living in the South with warmer climate I should do fine with the DTE Heavy. Rubbing it between my fingers feels a little more slick than Heavy/medium.

    I wanted 8 gallons to start. Checking MSC Direct, they want $35 per gallon plus shipping and tax. I went to a local distributor here in Houston, J.A.M. Distributors. I bought two cases, of four 1 gallon containers. The grand total including tax was $230, plus an hour and half of my time to travel and pick it up. FYI to those in the area, you need to place the order prior to picking it up, don't just go there. Anyway I probably saved $100 on 8 gallons, going there.

    J.A.M. doesn't offer a decription, just the name DTE Heavy, knowing there's a great many "like" oils for hydraulics and such I wanted to verify.

    The cases I received:
    303.jpg

    The cases and the gallon jugs had the same label:

    305.jpg 306.jpg

    Using the product code I verified through a different distributor. All the oils can have multiple product codes for the same oil, the different is in the quantity. According to my product code it is DTE Heavy Bulk. It would have a different product codes for 5 gallon pails or 55 gallon drums. J.A.M. must package the one gallon containers themselves. The jugs do have an aluminum seal under the cap though.

    Products codes by number:
    http://theoilnet.com/Atlantic-States...ustrial-19.pdf
    307.jpg

    Product codes by oil name:
    Mobil All Industrial Products
    308.jpg

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    Oils are usually a lot cheaper by the pail. I think the last pail of DTE 24 I bought came off Amazon for about $124 delivered, I'm not sure I can beat that with local folks.

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    Going back too your crossfeed nut adjustment. Here is a photo i took of the screen during a video. It shows what you need.20201026_093546-8873-.jpg
    Its at 2.33 minute's on an American pacemaker video.
    American Pacemaker lathe reassembly part Zero - YouTube
    I will be bringing that old Pacemaker home. Not the one in the video.

    Notice the undercut on the bolt on the left half. Allows side movement.

    You have lube.
    Last edited by mllud22; 10-26-2020 at 01:19 PM.

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    Just for future reference, don't buy gallons. Mobil sells DTE heavy medium in 5 gallon pails (or 55 gallon drums if you're so inclined) and a local distributor that I have no account with sells it for $112 over the counter. I used it in my Monarch 61, and my K&T 2K.

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    Yea, with rke[pler mentioning the same. In retrospect, I should have this time. With initial fills of headstock, apron, and qcgb coming. Wished i had priced it out to know.

    In my head I was thinking of running under normal circumstances, where I'd rather handle a gallon jug for minor fills.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Yea, with rke[pler mentioning the same. In retrospect, I should have this time. With initial fills of headstock, apron, and qcgb coming. Wished i had priced it out to know.

    In my head I was thinking of running under normal circumstances, where I'd rather handle a gallon jug for minor fills.
    Keep the gallon jugs and fill them from the pail. My pails are out in the fabrication end of the shop and the gallons are in the enclosed and heated end. Handy that way.

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    A little off topic, but I bought it to go with this lathe, so I figured I share.

    A couple of months back daryl bane posted a thread on a Monarch tool cabinet here:
    Monarch Tool Cabinet resto

    In it I suggested if he found another to let me know, half joking. Well another member contacted me, rke[pler, said he had a spare, and if we happen to cross close to where either lived, maybe we could work something out. As it turned it out, the Friday it happened.

    While maybe known more as a 10ee toolcabinet, I also found it in a 1957 catalog for Series 61's, so I'm rolling with it, haha. Thanks to rke[pler for making it happen. The catalog for 1957, page 42:
    Monarch Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints - Model 61 Engine and Toolmakers Lathes - Catalog | VintageMachinery.org

    The pdf from that link:
    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2103/19568.pdf

    And the pic from page 42:

    145.jpg

    Getting it unloaded today:

    313.jpg 314.jpg 317.jpg 315.jpg

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    More pics of the cabinet:

    316.jpg

    Nice spring latches and handles, though the handle on door may not be original. Odd because it matches the style of other two handles. But in probably a 60 plus year life, who knows what adventures its seen, . I like them and will probably leave them as is.

    320.jpg 319.jpg

    Spring lathe on drawer original I believe:

    318.jpg

    Once I have a whole lot more pieces hung on the lathe, I will get to restoring this. Same paint scheme as lathe. And start a different thread on the tool cabinet.

  18. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    In it I suggested if he found another to let me know, half joking. Well another member contacted me, rke[pler, said he had a spare, and if we happen to cross close to where either lived, maybe we could work something out. As it turned it out, the Friday it happened.
    Glad we could get together and that you made it home intact. I made it back with the bandsaw - 2200+ mile round trip. Living in a tool desert makes life interesting.

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