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Headstock removal late I/M machine

Steve,

Can't help answer your question but I'd be interested in the answer. I'm hoping I won't need to pull mine apart that much but you never know. Lol.

Where abouts in Socal are you if you don't mind me asking? I'm sure I'll be doing a lot of disassembly on my 88 I/M when I get to it. Would be nice to check out your machine and maybe learn a thing or two.

Jeff in long beach.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
Jeff,

I have a house in Woodland Hills BUT, I am in Hutchinson Kansas most of the time. My machines are all here as well. You have your work cut out for on the rescue, it will be very satisfying to see your efforts.

I will be documenting the switch to the 30" bed and perhaps relocate the drive in the machine base, the JIC box is a nice idea but clunky.

Steve
 
Steve I'm looking forward to following you progress.
The inch gear box is about 160 lbs and the I/M gear box about 175 lbs.

If you use a grinder to cut the clearance cuts. Do it out side, it's a dirty filthy job.

I don't know how to post a link to my past post, but it's under

Quich (note I misspelled quick) change gear box inch to metric.

Hal
 
I am finally getting around to replacing the bed on my lathe, I have the 4 bolts on the headstock loose. I removed the clamp under the front of the headstock. Gently lifting the back seems free but, the front moves with a lot of force. Am I missing a step or more here?

Steve
If it’s similar to my round dial, there are two alignment pins under the spindle end of the head stock. Once you get all 4 bolts loose, you have to lift it straight up vertically. It’s heavy, so at a minimum you will need a helper to lift.
 
Steve it's been over six years ago. I might forget something but I'll try to help you. I don't know the correct names of everything.

Remove the Left/Right tombstone shaped selector box above gear box.

Remove the quarter round shaped A/B Selector sections.
That exposures the top 2 bolt that hold the gear box in place.

Remove the thin strap shaped plate below gear box. That will expose the bottom 2 bolt that hold the gear box in place.

Drive out the pins in the lead screw, feed rod and elsr rods.


Remove the idler pulley and mounting bracket and pulleys as required.

You might have to remove the speed control box just below and behind idler pulley.

I think I had to remove the thread/feed chart cover, than I remover a plate that was 1/2 of a rack and pinion. I'm can't remember why.

I also had to turn one of the oil fill spouts to get enough clearance to remove the gear box.

Look over the pictures I posted on " quich change gear box inch to metric" to give you an idea
Than I slid the gear box out. It's heavy. I had a scissor lift table, it sure helped. I don't recall any alignment pins.
I hope this helps. Let me know if I can do anything else.
 
Steve, Here are the two pins that help align the front of the head stock to the bed.
IMG_2291.jpgIMG_2295.jpg
They where very snug on my machine. It took a bit of tapping the front of the head stock to loosen them. Then you have to pull straight up on the front of the head stock. Otherwise it will not budge. Hope that helps.
 
Thanks Grant and Hal,

I think the headstock IS free just don't want to screw the pooch.

Grant, I looked at your thread and the late headstock is quite different in regard to end gearing. I saw the two pin holes in the long bed and didn't consider they would be that tight? I will give the crane a workout tomorrow. I have a crane scale I think I will check the weight on the headstock and gear box for the next poor slob that does this job.

Thanks again fellas,

Steve
 
Thanks Grant and Hal,

I think the headstock IS free just don't want to screw the pooch.

Grant, I looked at your thread and the late headstock is quite different in regard to end gearing. I saw the two pin holes in the long bed and didn't consider they would be that tight? I will give the crane a workout tomorrow. I have a crane scale I think I will check the weight on the headstock and gear box for the next poor slob that does this job.

Thanks again fellas,

Steve

The end gearing is totally different, I dont know how many other design changes there is. Those pins where really tight on mine, with 80 years worth of old old turned to glue holding them in.
 
The only thing you did not mention is the overflow oil line at the rear of the headstock, behind the gearbox, back in the corner. If you have one. My 49 and 59 lathes have that line, but I don’t know about the single sight glass headstocks. Also, did you remove the gearbox yet? I would highly recommend it prior to removing the headstock, because the output gearshaft from the headstock sticks out too far to clear the gearbox.
 
The sequence of disassembly is the gearbox has to come out first. There is a clamp under the rear of the headstock that is behind the end gearing. Hal's post was very informative and other than a stubborn pin in the rack lever it was straight forward. The read headstock clamp is loosened the head is lifted and slid back to free the headstock. That clamp is not removable on the bed.

Next up is bed removal and prep the long bed for the I/M gear box. I will detailing the work in a thread for the entire project. I plan to use a versa-mil on my welding table to machine the bed( my welding table is a G&L angle plate bout 8K of cast iron)

Steve
 

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Steve I'm glad I could help and am looking forward watching your progress.
I should have taken more pictures and better notes. When I worked on my EE, I had a flip phone. I had to borrow my daughter's phone. It's not easy separating a girl and her phone. :)

Hal
 








 
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