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Inch Metric Monarch?

Pelallito

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Location
Miami, FL , USA
Hello to all and a Merry Christmas and New Year!
I was hoping that you could tell me about the Inch Metric Monarch EE. I have a chance at buying one, but there is a big difference in price from a standard machine.Unfortunately, I don't have all the information about the machine right now, will post again once I have more info.
Regards,
Fred
 
Imperial-metric (I-m)/English-metric (E-m) 10EEs are at a premium.

In the '80s, the metric kit ran about $10K, and the E-m feature ran about $15K.

With the kit, you get the 60/127 transposer and eight change gears (more properly called end gears on a Monarch). The dials remain English, and you have to crack open the end gear unit in order to change to metric.

With the feature you get a new, E/m gearbox, and E-m dials on every handwheel.

An E-m 10EE is a thing of real beauty. The pinnacle of Monarch lathe building art.

Perhaps a $10K-15K premium over a non-E-m 10EE.
 
Thank you Peter and Donnie. The machine in the photo looked lovely. I will be in contact with the owner again in the next few days. I will post any extra information then.
Regards,
Pelallito
 
Donie,

Any chance you could snap some pics of the headstock and the controls on the main casting. Then maybe a quick description of the various knobs and levers not generic to the 'run-o-the-mill'" 10EE. I know I'd be interested and I'm sure some others would too.

mark
 
I got a look at the machines, but could not get a lot of information. I was short on time and they were behind various types of equipment. The inch/metric was built in the 80's, and the regular was built in the late 40's. The normal Monarch does not have a drive and the seller will install one, a modern drive to make the sale. He reccomended two possibilities 1)a seven horsepower motor with a back gear drive or a ten without the drive. Which would be the better way to go?
Both machines need to be cleaned and painted- any reccomendation on color?
Thanks for all the help. I will try to go back with a digital camera.
Thanks again for the help.
Best regards,
Pelallito


the
 
Fred, I noticed that you were wanting it for gunsmithing. It is not suitable for chambering barrels easily. The headstock is too long to do it in the headstock without some clever mods. The bed is too short to chamber in the steady rest or between centers. Butch
 
Butch,
Thanks for that input, I do have an Atlas 12" lathe also. It also has a problem in that the hole through the headstock is too small, but at least the bed is long enough to hold most barrels in a center rest and have room to work. I would love to find one of the longer bed Monarch EE.
Perhaps I should look at other machines, but I sure like the Monarch.
I would probably have to rig a cenering device on the outside of the headstock spindle for long barrels.
Thanks again,
Fred
 
Here are some shots of the 10EE I/M gearbox.
The righthand gearbox lever has another position for metric.
There is an extra lever on the lefthand side of gearbox for inch/metric threads.
On the feed/thread knob under the tachometer it can be seen that when metric threading, the knob will be opposite of inch threading. This is because, when the levers on the gearbox are moved to the metric posision the leadscrew turns in the oposite direction because of the extra gears that are engaged in the gear box.
The last picture shows the right hand electrical compartment and the Square D switches.
Notice the white blob of paint on the speed control knob, I had a part fly out of a chuck at 4000rpm. so I put some paint on the knob at the 600rpm position. WOW!!!

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/monarchim1.JPG

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/monarchim2.JPG

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/monarchim3.JPG

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/monarchim4.JPG

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/monarchim5.JPG
 
Donnie,
Thanks for posting the photos, lovely machine!!
I was hoping for some help with this question from you guys-He reccomended two possibilities 1)a seven horsepower motor with a back gear drive or a ten without the drive. Which would be the better way to go? Both machines need to be cleaned and painted- any reccomendation on color?
I was hoping that you could tell me where I could see some painted Monarchs, I am partial to British Racing Green, but will like to admire( drool) over some pictures.
Regards and have a Happy New Year.
Fred
 
Hi Fred:
Check out Daryl Bane's machine if you want to do some serious drooling over a first class restoration.
He posted a bunch of pictures about a month ago.
Far to gorgeous to actually do any work on though!!!
Cheers

Marcus
 
Whaaat? Just you wait.But thanks, I'm blushing. But geez, they all looked good
at some point in their life. I've now got the gearbox and covers on, will take some more pics in the next day or so.
 
Pelallito, I have heard it said that the 7 1/2 hp conversion with gearbox is the best allround for conversion.
A Monarch tech told me if you do alot of threading, the 10hp direct drive is not the way to go.
Some think the best bet is to stay with the original drive because the radiation from the thyratron tubes is better than Viagra. I think its true.
Dayrl and Russ do some great paint, I think better than new!

Don
 
I've got a 5HP Sensorless Vector Drive VFD, with the backgears, that is more than enough for the EE. I don't think you would be able to tell much difference with the 5HP DC drive. The 7-1/2HP is overkill in my opinion.
Harry
 
"I've got a 5HP Sensorless Vector Drive VFD, with the backgears, that is more than enough for the EE. I don't think you would be able to tell much difference with the 5HP DC drive. The 7-1/2HP is overkill in my opinion."

Harry's experience speaks for itself.

Perhaps sensorless vector technology was not available when Monarch first offered its 7.5 HP backgear/10 HP open belt conversions.

Surely, with the Joliet drives, which were dc, tachometer feedback was being used, and that's decades before tachometer feedback was routinely available for ac motors.

Should affordable 5 HP single-phase sensorless vector (or sensor vector ... both are available now) drives become available, I'd much prefer that to a 7.5 HP non-vector drive, and having to supply three-phase to the machine.

Still, a working 3 HP or 5 HP tube drive ... as long as the tubes are still working ... is hard to beat.

Plus, as Donnie pointed out, there's no need for Viagra with these drives.

Has anyone tried a conversion with a JM frame (pump type) motor ... the ones with the extra long shaft, which are oversize and can be turned down to 1.25"?

I received specs on a Baldor motor and it has a 8+ inch long shaft (size matters, right?) with about 5.8" clear of any keyway and about 1.375" dia, which could "easily" ... easy for me to say ... be turned down to 1.25" dia for a 10EE conversion.
 
The thread is 15 yrs old, I still have a couple of the photos,
BlWgp7L.jpg


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