Jim's 10ee rebuild thread - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    Hi Folks,

    Just a quick update. I am making progress, albeit slowly. The apron is now back together! I wish I had read the threads about the oil pump not being self-priming *before* I reassembled the damn thing, but at least it's easy to get to. Do I just submerge it in Vactra and crank it for awhile? Any reason I can't just overfill the apron and do it in situ?

    Three of the bearings felt sandy and were replaced after much searching for good replacements. One of the clutch thrust bearings' cage had completely detonated and I never did find a replacement bearing, so I made a new cage from scratch. We'll see how it does!

    Next up is to strip and repaint the front of the leadscrew gearbox; everything in there feels silky and works great so I'm not going to bother tearing it apart. Wish me luck.

    I never got over my concerns about the cross slide gib having broken and been brazed back together, so I bought a new cross slide and gib together off eBay for $250. Will send them to get scraped in once John F. gets back from his Florida vacation.

    Cheers,
    jim
    img_0054.jpgimg_0050.jpgimg_0028.jpg

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  3. #62
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    Hi All,

    It has been a busy summer and I have been making slow, steady progress on my 10ee. The leadscrew gearbox is complete and sharing a furniture dolly with the apron while I work on the tailstock. I have her all apart and there are only a few curiosities.

    At some point in the past I think someone stripped out the side-to-side alignment screws and so a new part was machined and screwed into a recess in the main TS casting. The TS had been shimmed up between the two pieces using what appears to be scotch tape, an ominous sign. I'll get her re-shimmed properly at the end of the refurbishment process.

    What I do want to get people's opinions on is some slop in the tailstock quill. Both the quill and the barrel have some wear and scoring which is to be expected from six decades of service. Now that everything is cleaned and I'm starting to reassemble, I'm showing about 0.005" of up/down slop in the quill when I apply moderate finger pressure with the quill extended 3". With it all the way retracted I still get ~0.002".

    Seems to me this is a giant problem that will affect the accuracy of the machine, no? Do I have options other than having the bore redone and sleeved like a piston? Sounds expensive and fraught.

    Thanks,
    jim

    img_0344.jpg

  4. #63
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    You'll want to use a bore gage on the tailstock casting and see if the wear is to the quill or the tail stock casting. If it is the casting you can likely have it honed cylindrical and make a quill. Mine had all the wear on the quill so I made a replacement quill (actually, 2 - I made a second with an MT3 taper). I recall Daryl went the "hone" way.

    (I just checked my MT2 quill. With the tailstock locked and the quill extended to 3.5" (but not locked) I can get about .0005" movement pulling on a tool that's about 6" extended out of the taper. Pretty good, I think.)

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  6. #64
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    I had my 10EE tailstock bore honed at a local honing shop and then made a new quill. I made it out of LaSalle Fatigue-Proof ETD-150. I lapped the quill to fit using a cast iron ring lap. I rough-bored the taper, and then finished with a #2 Morse reamer. The job is archived here on PM in the 10EE forum, but the photo links may be broken.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  8. #65
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    Thank you for the replies, fellas.

    I got out my bore gauges and measured the tailstock quill bore at 1.2525" at the headstock end of the opening, 1.251" about 3 inches in, and 1.250" at the tailstock end just past the threads.

    I'm not a genius, but I think that 0.0025" bell mouth explains the 0.005" movement in the quill. The quill itself more or less measures 1.249".

    My next move will be to find an auto machine shop or similar that can hone the TS bore to be concentric, and I guess with a finished ID of 1.253-ish.

    Do you all think I need to make a new quill or is it possible for me to have the existing one chrome plated or similar and then ground down to 1.2525?

    Thank You,
    jim

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    Make sure whomever hones the bore knows how to deal with the key slot and quill lock cutout. I don't think they necessarily need a helical hone, but they do need to be careful not to snag or round over the edges of those features.

    I suppose you could chrome and grind the quill. Is the taper in good enough condition? I recognize that making a nice quill takes hours and is not a job for everyone, especially if the only lathe you have is the one that needs a quill. I was fortunate enough to have another lathe.

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  11. #67
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    If you have access to a top flight hard chrome shop, that would be the way to go. By "top flight", I mean equipment and people that really know what they are doing and grinding to a "tenth" is not a problem. There was a old time hard chrome plater here in Dallas , that was legendary and I knew the owner, son of the original founder. I took my quill over there, and their grinders all dated prewar, they could barely hit .001 much less .0002. What a cluster. I eventually had to make my own quill. I heard the other day that they had been pouring their old plating liquids in a hole in the ground on their property, had had been doing so for decades. It was declared a Superfund site, and the owner didn't even lock the gate and left the country. Ha.

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  13. #68
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    Hi Fellas,

    I'll *try* to go the chrome route first. I'm in Atlanta so there are plenty of places to go to get it honed and I'll find someone who doesn't screw up the keyway etc.

    The taper in the quill is not in amazing shape, but can't I just put an MT2 reamer in the headstock and clean it up, or am I missing something?

    Appreciate it,
    jim

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    The original quill is not hardened(mine was not) and a good reamer should clean that up no problem. I know there are limits as to how much you can ream, but I can't imagine yours is that bad....he says.

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  16. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim314159 View Post
    The taper in the quill is not in amazing shape, but can't I just put an MT2 reamer in the headstock and clean it up, or am I missing something?
    IIRC every .001 you ream from the MT2 takes .007 from the length. So if there's some pit you ream out completely you might set the gage line back enough that some shanks hit the stop pins.

    Doesn't mean that you shouldn't try.

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