K-13 13x 30"
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Thread: K-13 13x 30"

  1. #1
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    Default K-13 13x 30"

    Hello All,
    I recently purchased a K-13 at auction and it seems to be ok shape. It needs some belts, cleaning, and lube system work. It came w/ an Aloris CA tool post, 4 good quality chucks and has a taper attachment.I am new to machining, so please bear with me. I am wondering if there is supposed to be a casting that attaches from the rod that runs through the pinion gear (where one adjusts the degrees or inches per foot of the desired taper) to the rear way of the lathe. The manual I found online doesn't give a good detailed picture or description of setting it. I have yet to plug it in, just got power rigged up and opted to go with a new derated Lenze VFD. I just have to move it and wire it up. Does anyone have any photos or a can help with this question?
    I know it's not as solid or common as the 10EE for 16" models, but should suit my hobby machining needs well.
    Thanks in advance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails n7q9c9y8roanghkmbepnwq.jpg   fpqyv8eqr-wtu3o9rvidhg.jpg   mjftcidwsq26ycesvmapzg.jpg   knzd-6aor0gmcdvpjtauzg.jpg   kg7d86zzr-utlooizjhaeq.jpg  


  2. #2
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    How about posting a picture of the head stock?

    That is one stout machine for it's size weighing in at 3800 lbs.! Nice find.

    Can't help you much on the bed clamp for the taper attachment. That's something you'll have to make and I'm sure someone here can provide you with pictures of one that is close to yours. My guess, one off of a 14"-16" will probably be close enough to work off of.

    Thanks for sharing, Ken

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    I'll suppose you are asking about this end of the ball bearing T/A you have

    They managed a CLAMP to be on this end on that "rod" that passed thru the adjusting gear. You loosen the bottom nut so you can turn the top square to adjust T/A , then you sock down the nut again.

    I had to make the clamp - being the original was trashed long ago

    Maybe not the same, is 20 years older than yours. This is CW16 X 102
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1000031.jpg   p1000032.jpg  

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    Default

    Keith Rucker on YouTube just finished rebuilding a Model K lathe. You might find answers to some of your questions by watching his rebuild video's.

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    Default K-13 Taper Attachment

    Hi Johnoder,
    Thanks for the info, as I said, I am new at this and my knowledge base and terminology sucks. Here is a pic of the assembly as it came. Hawkfan9 mentioned Keith Rucker's rebuild series, which I watched (more than once, lol). In his restoration of a Monarch 16" x ? there is a physical connection (looks like a casting) from the rod w/ the two adjusting nuts at the tailstock end, to the flat way of the bed.It's captured between the two nuts on the threaded rod for taper in the X axis. I assume it stabilizes the attachment as it feeds. Perhaps this machine is different, but I suspect it's just missing. It appears I may be missing the "clamp" and the "stabilzer" ? I assume that keyway on the bushing in the pic aligns the clamp?

    Anyway, I thank you all for your time with a novice. There are no real local resources for information and practical knowledge where I'm at. I haven't found any guilds, clubs etc. I am on the Hobby Machinist site. The Agricultural and Engineering programs at the state university I attend haven't seen this one either. And, I know time is money to a professional.
    Thanks


    gitc1iwzq7wqsaectngkdq.jpggrzsef-gr0-yfwse1qhkfw.jpg2fpgteojtimf1kut-sslyg.jpgxtp6lektsbqv2dcjrjngog.jpg
    Last edited by 63steward; 10-05-2019 at 07:25 PM. Reason: Clarification

  6. #6
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    T/A bed clamp is a name that has been used. Original ones are nice, but anything that will clamp on rear way, fit in between the two ring nuts will work

    The T/A can only function if the taper bar (the piece you can adjust) remains stationary while the carriage feeds along - and this requirement is the WHY of having the bed clamp

    Thumbnails are the one I intended to fix but gave away instead

    And by the way, if the kudo (professional) was aimed this way, I thank you, but have to admit I was last a professional - as far as machining - in 1972



    Quote Originally Posted by 63steward View Post
    Hi Johnoder,
    Thanks for the info, as I said, I am new at this and my knowledge base and terminology sucks. Here is a pic of the assembly as it came. Hawkfan9 mentioned Keith Rucker's rebuild series, which I watched (more than once, lol). In his restoration of a Monarch 16" x ? there is a physical connection (looks like a casting) from the rod w/ the two adjusting nuts at the tailstock end, to the flat way of the bed.It's captured between the two nuts on the threaded rod for taper in the X axis. I assume it stabilizes the attachment as it feeds. Perhaps this machine is different, but I suspect it's just missing. It appears I may be missing the "clamp" and the "stabilzer" ? I assume that keyway on the bushing in the pic aligns the clamp?

    Anyway, I thank you all for your time with a novice. There are no real local resources for information and practical knowledge where I'm at. I haven't found any guilds, clubs etc. I am on the Hobby Machinist site. The Agricultural and Engineering programs at the state university I attend haven't seen this one either. And, I know time is money to a professional.
    Thanks

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dcp_0963.jpg   dcp_0964.jpg   dcp_0965.jpg   dcp_0966.jpg  

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    Thanks John.You are certainly more a professional than I. I have worked in the building trades for a long time, as a sheet metal mechanic among others, but machining, no. I got bit by that bug hard about a year ago, so it will be a lifelong serious hobby thing. I think it might be more expensive than a drug habit, lol. I like the idea of restoring old US tools, people took pride in their craft and their work. It's a part of our history that sadly is disappearing.
    Ken, I posted those pics of my headstock and a shot of the T/A business end. If this works, here is a screenshot I took from Keith Rucker's K-16 rebuild series, It's DEFINITELY missing.

    Thanks again gentlemen,I appreciate it. I will update my progress as I go.
    screen-shot-2019-10-06-1.06.04-am.jpg

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    When time allows, post distance from back or rear edge of flat rear way to C/L draw rod

    I have bed clamp TOO LONG (for a larger Monarch) if you want to section same (MAKE SHORTER) and stick back together with Muggy weld or whatever. Might serve as a stand in until the real thing came along

    There are also MARVELOUS made from scratch efforts like this Hendey's bed clamp - Post #124 - too bad Pat's really fine photos got the PB treatment

    Hendey 14 by 6 Tie-Bar Rehab

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    Hello Again John,
    You guys are probably getting tired of this thread, but ...
    I emailed Monarch and they sent me the one page of the manual that includes the Taper attachment exploded/parts list. Keith Rucker has one on his site, but was missing a few pages. I have included the one Monarch sent me for those of you with a Model K w/ a T/A. I kind of think that the K-16 might be the same? At any rate John, I asked him to give me price/availability on the "bed bracket" and "bed clamp" as they call it, part #'s 44 and 45. Don't know if they even make it anymore, if they do, it's probably an arm and a leg. I might very well take you up on your offer, and really appreciate your all of you replying. I'll get a measurement.
    Here's the pic. If anyone needs the manual portion(s) I DO have, let me know. Monarch charges $50 a pop for presumably, a complete one. Again, it's available on Vintage Machinery.org site
    Thanks!

    k-13-t-parts-list-3.jpgk-13-t-assembled-view.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails k-13-t-parts-list.jpg  
    Last edited by 63steward; 10-08-2019 at 01:15 AM. Reason: picture quality

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    Default The Clamp Saga

    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    When time allows, post distance from back or rear edge of flat rear way to C/L draw rod

    I have bed clamp TOO LONG (for a larger Monarch) if you want to section same (MAKE SHORTER) and stick back together with Muggy weld or whatever. Might serve as a stand in until the real thing came along

    There are also MARVELOUS made from scratch efforts like this Hendey's bed clamp - Post #124 - too bad Pat's really fine photos got the PB treatment

    Hendey 14 by 6 Tie-Bar Rehab
    Hi John,
    Wonder if you still have that longer bed clamp? With the taper not engaged, the distance from rear edge of flat way to centerline of control rod is 6.5". I got a quote from Monarch and almost fell out. I'm glad they still support the line, but man are they proud of it. Perhaps you could Pm or email me?
    Thanks,
    Chad

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    Sent email through forum Chad - maybe it will show up

    ON EDIT Photos emailed with info

    ON EDIT - thumbnails added of the "too long" bed clamp Chad has elected to modify. My suggestion was to make it usable by "scalloping" the neck in the right location and welding in an open bottom bushing - and shimming the clamp end to suit his rear way.

    Quote Originally Posted by 63steward View Post
    Hi John,
    Wonder if you still have that longer bed clamp? With the taper not engaged, the distance from rear edge of flat way to centerline of control rod is 6.5". I got a quote from Monarch and almost fell out. I'm glad they still support the line, but man are they proud of it. Perhaps you could Pm or email me?
    Thanks,
    Chad
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p1000779.jpg   p1000780.jpg  
    Last edited by johnoder; 10-12-2019 at 08:27 AM.


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