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List of bearings for the 10EE

dinotom

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
During my own restoration, I have been documenting the bearings I have been replacing. I did search for a list of bearings but did not find one. Is there already a sticky or a thread where all the bearing sizes for all the bearings in the 10EE and motor units are noted?

If not, at some point I will publish my list of bearings that were in the machine and a list of replacements for those bearings, with sources.

Side note: Does anyone know Mac007 (Ken McCratic). I haven't seen him on PM for a month and he hasn't responded to any emails for 2-3 weeks. I'm getting worried.
 
This would be great information to have. I believe I have a bad bearing on the spindle side of the AC motor of my 42 10ee. I called Monarch to see if they could give me any info. They were less than helpful.
 
If you are going to replace the shaft side bearings, just do the other side too, it's an easier process anyway.
Unfortunately, I could not find the MG unit bearings list I wrote down. I will take it apart later to confirm what goes where but the 3 bearings needed are

6905, which definitely goes on the blower fan end.
6205Z, if you want single shielded and will continue greasing via the zerks, or you can use the 6205ZZ double shielded and you wont have to bother with greasing via the zerks.

And actually, until I take it apart again to check which bearings go where, I'll forgo listing the third here until I'm sure I have the correct bearing number.
 
This would be great information to have. I believe I have a bad bearing on the spindle side of the AC motor of my 42 10ee. I called Monarch to see if they could give me any info. They were less than helpful.

By spindle side I assume you mean the shaft with the pulley under the exciter. That bearing is a 6205Z, single shielded. I replaced it with an NTN 6205ZZ, which is double shielded and will eliminate the need to grease the bearing with the grease zerk on the motor casing. These are relatively standard bearings and can be obtained from most bearing supply houses both physical and online.
 
I can sympathize with wanting a bearing list for the 10EE. I made a complete list for a CY 16" and posted a while back. Not helpful but to your point about Monarch not supplying bearing information, this was my experience as well. It could be that bearing changes was not just during model changes?
 
The bearings on the traverse pinion shaft are 88505 from back when, but 6205 has the same dimensions. The web said 88505 is wider, but when I set them next to a 6205 I have on the bench they appear the same. Something I read said the 88505 used felt seals, but I can't confirm that. Anyway, I'll be going back with 6205ZZ.

The gib bearings on my SD are 77039, which is the same size as a more common 629. Again, I'll replace with the 629ZZ.

The thrust bearing for the crossfeed screw at the dial end is 7'16"ID x 7/8"OD. The bearings I find online have dimensions for the bearing and both races, and most of the bearings I have run across online are shown with new races, but the bearings in the carriage seem to use thick hardened washers for the races; there is no groove. I ordered a bearing labeled as 3/16" thick with no races and will see how well it fits and works. The thickness of the OEM is only 0.154". Mine has pitting on most of the balls, but it does spin freely, so I could just go back with it.

The gib bearings on mine were all crunchy except for the one that was completely painted stuck. (The others were painted, but apparently didn't get paint between moving parts.) All the rest of the bearings I have taken out have been alright, but seemed very dry as they would spin way too freely, so even though some might say it's lipstick on a pig, I'm replacing them as I come across them.
 
I'll be going back with 6205ZZ..

I've had most this lathe apart but not 100% sure what part you are referring to, however in 2020 why go with a shielded bearing? imo the 2RS bearings are the way to go, low friction seal.....the protection of seal with the freedom of a shield (sounds like a condom ad lol)
 
I've had most this lathe apart but not 100% sure what part you are referring to, however in 2020 why go with a shielded bearing? imo the 2RS bearings are the way to go, low friction seal.....the protection of seal with the freedom of a shield (sounds like a condom ad lol)

On the gib bearings, I thought about using sealed bearings, but I don't run coolant and doubt I ever will. Besides that, they may still not contact the underside of the ways. This machine has 0.027" of shims above the gear rack as it is and I don't know that it's worth changing that to get better gear engagement, either. It's an old machine and that's how it will stay in that area. On the traverse pinion bearings, it's not really a concern. The bearings are inside the apron. The rear is exposed a little but being buried where it is on the back, I don't think it will matter. Again, no coolant to flush out the grease, though I suppose the oil in the apron could still do that.

As far as any differences between the 88505 and 6205, I didn't look at the inner race that closely, so there could be almost a mm of difference in width there. neither of the bearings on mine were up against anything on the inside of the apron. The rear bearing was pressed against the pinion gear. So, in this application, I don't see that it will matter.

Dave
 
On the gib bearings, I thought about using sealed bearings, but I don't run coolant and doubt I ever will. Besides that, they may still not contact the underside of the ways. This machine has 0.027" of shims above the gear rack as it is and I don't know that it's worth changing that to get better gear engagement, either. It's an old machine and that's how it will stay in that area. On the traverse pinion bearings, it's not really a concern. The bearings are inside the apron. The rear is exposed a little but being buried where it is on the back, I don't think it will matter. Again, no coolant to flush out the grease, though I suppose the oil in the apron could still do that.

The shielded will work, I was just getting at the idea the 2RS are a better modern product. Sealed bearing have quite a bit more drag than shielded so that was the reason you might use shielded in the past, but now with low friction seals (imo) there is no reason I can think of to use shielded again. No matter where it is there's still crud and grit and dust that makes it into a bearing even if its out of the way, and the seals greatly reduce that intrusion. So far as I can figure, the 2RS has made shielded obsolete, for any application I can think of.
 
Apparently, I did order sealed bearings for the pinion and they worked fine. I can see no reason for the use of the non-standard 88505 bearings here. The inner race does not seem to be used to locate anything axially.

I have wondered about the durability of sealed bearings where they may come into contact with hard, or hot, debris.

Dave
 
I have wondered about the durability of sealed bearings where they may come into contact with hard, or hot, debris.

Dave

thats a good point.....but that's a really hostile environment I hope never happens in the machine :). There's just too many places for crap to get in with a shielded bearing, a sealed does a better job of keeping things out

btw, it was specifically the low friction 2RS's I was recommending as a general replacement for shielded not just sealed.... but in this app I'm sure the sealed will be fine. The difference being sealed is a fair bit more friction than shielded, 2RS are not.

I do a bit of watch work. A good watch is well sealed, yet you quickly learn that somehow dust and crap gets in there and can make a mess of things. A bearing is not as well sealed yet is arguably a device of greater precision. That bearing needs to stay clean for a long life and even the best seals (like a watch) won't keep all the crap out. That's my rational for choosing 2RS over shielded, they'll keep things cleaner and don't add an appreciable amount of friction
 








 
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