Monarch 10ee 1949
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  1. #1
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    Default Monarch 10ee 1949

    img_0401.jpgimg_0402.jpgimg_0403.jpg

    Looking for help with my Monarch 10ee. I was drilling a hole in aluminum when it bogged down and it eventually stopped. It blew a fuse in the control panel. I then hit the reset button on the back and got the light to work but it continuous to blow fuses and it does not run.
    The machine is a 1949 10ee with the original motor running 220 volt single phase with a VFD. It also has the LSR option. It was a good running machine up to now. Maybe somewhat limited because of the retrofit but it was good enough for me.

    Any parts that I should replace or any help or advice will be welcome.

    Thank you.

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    Hello, will the lathe run now NOT under load?
    When you were drilling aluminum, you put a heavy load [High amperage] through your VFD, I assume the fuse you blew was in the VFD? If not, is the fuse that keeps blowing in your 220VAC single phase power in the shop?

    Do you have a voltmeter to check input and output power? This will likely be required..

    You said the original motor, so it's a DC Motor with the 'back-gear gearbox' on the motor? I'm curious what type of VFD it would
    have to run an original DC motor?

    Take a photo of the motor end of the lathe with the two end covers removed. Does the motor smell burnt?
    Running any motor under high load with low rpm is a recipe for high heat, low cooling and melted insulating resulting in shorted
    windings on the armature and /or fields..

    A bit more information about your lathe will be needed to help diagnose your situation.

    DualValve.

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    I appreciate you taking the time to help.

    The fuse that keep blowing are the ones in the middle picture panel above in my initial post. I am calling VFD but I could be wrong. The motor is the original motor (I think) Reliance with the back-gear gearbox. The lathe does not run now. The work light comes on but lathe does not turn.
    I will take pictures of the motor.....and smell it as well.

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    See if you can find a name plate, with model number on that power-supply panel. And maybe a wiring schematic for the panel?

    If it is taking 220vac single phase and then running a DC motor, it must have some form of a rectifier to convert AC current to DC.
    That usually means diodes..
    BUT I am NOT an electronics guy.. I fumble around with my stuff and only once in a while 'let the smoke out' of wiring or components. I cannot recommend any particular checks other than to see if you have any bubbled insulation on wiring or otherwise obvious burnt components..

    I'll be following this thread for it's educational value to myself.

    Just for grins, trip and reset the breaker in your AC main power panel supplying 220v to the lathe.. I've had a double breaker trip only one side, and NOT trip the other side, so the breaker appears to be 'on' on both legs, but it is only supplying power on one leg..

    If your shop power is providing only 110v to your power panel in the lathe, it may cause it to blow it's fuses.. Just a thought.. you might be lucky..

    DualValve.

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    if you are powering a DC motor it is not a VFD.
    i would recommend figuring out the brand of the DC drive controller and checking back here and online for info on their unit.

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    Middle picture DC drive controller has some shorted SCR's and will need to be replaced If not the whole DC drive controller.

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    The lathe is a SENECA ARMY Depot retrofit unit. There is some literature but no electrical diagram.
    Unable to load picture but it is a DC motor drive controller. KBRG A57225.

    Is it time to get an electrician to take a look?
    Any lather or Monarch experts in the San Diego area?

    Thank you,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchster View Post
    The lathe is a SENECA ARMY Depot retrofit unit. There is some literature but no electrical diagram.
    Unable to load picture but it is a DC motor drive controller. KBRG A57225.

    Is it time to get an electrician to take a look?
    Any lather or Monarch experts in the San Diego area?

    Thank you,
    try these guys:
    KB-Controls.com, Your online Shopping for AC & DC Controls & Drives

    here is a manual:
    https://acim.nidec.com/drives/kbelec...ual.ashx?la=en

    here is a replacement board:
    A57225 by KB ELECTRONICS - Buy or Repair at Radwell

    - Radwell.com


    i'm in SD but have no experience with KB Penta drives.

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    Outstanding!
    I appreciate the help. Hopefully I can find someone local that can repair/replace for me.
    Otherwise I can send it to get fix.

    But first I need to test the motor?

    Thank you.

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    There should be a nameplate on the top side of the KBRG regenerative control, below the fuse block.
    Probably it is a KBRG-255.
    The SCR's on yours are through hole and easy to replace when needed. I normally replace with the highest voltage units of the same family.

    This is the proper manual for what you have. https://acim.nidec.com/drives/kbelec...ual.ashx?la=en


    Bill

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    After careful inspection-I found what appears to be fire residue on the speed control board-I think. It does not look normal to me. Looks like one or two of the microchips are gone. see link above.

    I hope that is it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchster View Post
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    After careful inspection-I found what appears to be fire residue on the speed control board-I think. It does not look normal to me. Looks like one or two of the microchips are gone. see link above.

    I hope that is it.
    Your links do not work.

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    Unfortunately, link does not work but it is just a picture of the burnt SCR.
    Last edited by Fuchster; 01-08-2020 at 01:56 PM.

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    Looks like the speed control card top left small has a couple of burnt micro chips. Is that what you were referring to? Is that something I can find and replace?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchster View Post
    Looks like the speed control card top left small has a couple of burnt micro chips. Is that what you were referring to? Is that something I can find and replace?
    I am guessing here but that small board on the top left looks like the field control card and that card is Cheap on ebay the lower board is your Main control for the armature. If you can disconnect the wires on the top left card and see if the fuses blow. On the lower card there two fuses on the card itself do any of those blow? After looking at a blow up of the picture those fuses are not there on the lower card. disconnect the upper card power leads and see if a new fuse will not blow do not advance the speed knob past 0 speed all the way down.

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    Post your pictures like you did on your first post!!!

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    Default

    76bef2a1-b228-49a8-82b6-ffaa63e3538d.jpg63d89b1f-a380-4744-a352-7f4b354df99d.jpg1ed2a423-8964-4b16-8dab-0798ec0dc4fc.jpgd89f8f0a-bd21-446d-88b3-de2adbb95387.jpg

    I think I got pics now.

    Can any body tell me what plug-in power resistor I have or where it is?
    The eBay listing wants me to specify.
    KB Electronics KBIC-240DS DC SCR Chassis Drive, 9423, 1/100-1HP @ 115/230VAC

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    It's the white power resistor mounted on its own small PCB in the upper right corner.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchster View Post
    76bef2a1-b228-49a8-82b6-ffaa63e3538d.jpg63d89b1f-a380-4744-a352-7f4b354df99d.jpg1ed2a423-8964-4b16-8dab-0798ec0dc4fc.jpgd89f8f0a-bd21-446d-88b3-de2adbb95387.jpg

    I think I got pics now.

    Can any body tell me what plug-in power resistor I have or where it is?
    The eBay listing wants me to specify.
    KB Electronics KBIC-240DS DC SCR Chassis Drive, 9423, 1/100-1HP @ 115/230VAC
    Unplug your old one and check for continuity you have a 90% chance it is good. It is the white ceramic square thing mounted on a little board that plugs in.

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    The plug in resistor is marked on the side with HP @ 120 V, and HP @ 240 V input power, along with the resistance.

    Bill


    The last page of the catalog lists the resistors.

    https://acim.nidec.com/drives/kbelec...ide.ashx?la=en

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