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Are you asking about the circuit breaker in the panel that supplies power to the machine, or something on the machine itself?What is the correct two poles breaker size for a 1942 10ee with MG drive?
The MG was modified from 3 phase 220 Volts to a single phase 220Volts
Are you asking about the circuit breaker in the panel that supplies power to the machine, or something on the machine itself?
Cal
A 30A breaker works for me as well, but the machine should only draw large amounts of current when the MG is coming up to speed. If a breaker is tripping when the machine is idling, something else is going on.I am asking about the breakers in the panel that supply power to the machine.
The lathe itself does not have any breakers. My breakers seems to pop off once in a while even if the lathe is just siting there running but not doing any cutting.
Ok, I only wanted to know what is the general size of the two pole breakers used in the electrical panel when the 10ee is powered by a single phase 220V and with the MG modified as per the "sticky" Thread "Single Phase Conversion" on this site, and which I followed step by step.
Just to give you more details of my setup is as follows:
1) The two poles breaker in my panel is a Square-D 30 Amps
2) I have an extension cord (10 feet long) going from a 30 Amp plug directly to the lathe
3) The extension cord wire size is 10 AWG
4) modification of the MG uses the Start and Run capacitors and the SUPCO relay, just as described in the thread above "Single phase Conversion". This modification seems to work Ok so far. The only issues I had in the past was, that I measured very high voltages across both the Start capacitors and Run capacitors, but nothing ever blowed-up.
View attachment 241870View attachment 241871
I am attaching a couple of photos showing the re-conditioned lathe and the panel showing the MG electrical modification.
Also, I want to mention that all bearings were replaced and every moving parts in the MG and DC motor was inspected for wear and tare, and there is nothing creating high friction.
Yep But did he pull the breaker and check the connection to the buss bars?All good advice, in general, but since Pier loaded-up the full info set, I'm one taking it as a given he has already done these things - and more.
It's that unpredictable, intermittent trip-out that is the mystery to be tracked-down and "addressed" in some manner that improves the situation.
That he has reported it only when in standby/idle, AND NOT when under load, in the cut, hints that it is of fairly low-level at-source, as even if arriving only episodically, it is "pushed own into the noise" when the MG is hauling even a modest load. So long as there IS a load, not just standby, it has not been reported as arising as a trip-out, EVEN though - the breakers are already carrying a higher load to support the load in the cut, hence have lesser reserve to use-up to reach the zone for tripping the breaker.
BTW - hope and TRUST that there are NO "GFCI" nor newer combined-fault cousins in this chain.
They can "be there", but they need more careful selection than ordinary residential dwelling service requires.
Absent that extra vulnerability to faux trip, this is where the 'scope could reveal the waveform, and spot the characteristic of DC Drives, VFD, or nasty switching compressor contactors. That could rapidly narrow-down where one has to go search for the truant device.
Hopefully, all that really needs is to go across the room and de-power some other device already ID'ed as a possible suspect, then see if the problem has just then gone away. No 'scope required!
Mind, mention of even using classical test equipment will also draw another round of hobby project photo attention-bid, but there's no great harm in that.
Our man in Walla Walla is at least rather good with a camera!
Just to give you more details of my setup is as follows:
1) The two poles breaker in my panel is a Square-D 30 Amps
2) I have an extension cord (10 feet long) going from a 30 Amp plug directly to the lathe
3) The extension cord wire size is 10 AWG
... My breakers seems to pop off once in a while even if the lathe is just siting there running but not doing any cutting.
Russ,
I don't think it's a current inrush issue. He said it happens at idle:
Cal
If the potential relay fails to disconnect you'll know about it pretty quickly. Electrolytic starting capacitors can't survive very long when connected to line voltage.Hi CAL
One more thing that I should mention:
What if the "SUPCO APR5" fails to disconnect the START capacitor, or it intermittently closes the contact due to some unknown reason, would this be a cause for over-current?
I kind don't trust the source of where I bought that relay (again, on ebay) so that is another of my suspects.
Is there a way to test the SUPCO APR5 relay by itself?
Is the adjustable voltage on the SUPCO relay the rms or peak voltage? Currently it is set to 250 Volts (because the instructions said to do that).
At one time I did notice the voltage across both the START and RUN capacitor to be very high, even after 30 seconds after power up, but I did not pay to much attention then, since things were running. But now, I find that to be abnormal because the voltage on the START capacitor should be zero after power up.
Peter's Stillman conversion diagram calls for three run capacitors (Cr and Cpf are run caps):I do trust the capacitors because they are from a local vendor.
In my case I use 2 X 100uF-400VAC caps for the START (in parallel) and one 60uF-400VAC for the RUN cap.
Cheers
Pier
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