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"Some" perhaps most, were associated with early-days "inline" exciter 10EE and 3 HP large-frame motors with 230 VDC Field coils..
One possible solution is to source any coil that fits and has the pull-in power, then provide for its control and actuation power separately from the rest of the goods as use that 230 VDC. Motor is hard to swap. All-else not so much.
IOW not only could the later, more common 115 VDC nominal coils work, so too, could 24 Volt ones be arranged to work, even if another "pilot" relay and control transformer had to be added.
The nut to crack is finding any coils AT ALL that fit. The rest is tedious, but at least CHEAP.
PS: You do not REALLY want a series resistor. Those are current-limiters, and it is Ampere-turns that do the work, so halving the voltage is halving the pull-in power even a half-Voltage coil needs to function expecting a higher Ampere draw for given force. The raw supply doesn't have so much reserve as to piss away half the budget heating a resistor to no avail, either.
Can't see that it would give a damn WHERE the - I'd guess 200-to 260 as probable safe working range - actually comes from, BUT.. Mind that while switch contacts live longer on AC, not all contactor nor relay coils are equally happy on AC as DC. Packaged FWB rectifiers are still only 3 bucks or so, though.
Should fuse that supply line, of course. I even have one-hole aircraft/marine mini-breakers no bigger than a common panel fuse mount, but it shouldn't ever trip.
Just a cut wire, shorted, and turned into an igniter you'd be protecting against, mostly.
"inline" fuseholder, auto parts store is NOT a good idea. Most are not rated for any serious Voltage.
One-hole panel mount holders can be OK. Block mount spring clips are gnarly as they really should have a covered space to live in - ELSE a cover of their own, but otherwise agnostic.
Why on Earth would you want to encourage him to go any further down that road than he already has?
Most 10EE, the least-cost route, time as well as money, is to "restore what yah got", and "run what yah got".
I hate to get back on this topic but I have a Struthers-Dunn 240 volt ac coil that will fit my contactor.I did wire it up and it did work and you know what went on next it overheated after about 20 min. I have more of these coils anyone know what resistor I could use to make this work and tell me how to wire it in or should I quit thinking about this and just rewind my old dc coil.
I hate to get back on this topic but I have a Struthers-Dunn 240 volt ac coil that will fit my contactor.I did wire it up and it did work and you know what went on next it overheated after about 20 min. I have more of these coils anyone know what resistor I could use to make this work and tell me how to wire it in or should I quit thinking about this and just rewind my old dc coil.
The resistance on the ac coil 890 ohms,don,t have a real good amp meter but seems to be 1 amp or less.I have ordered the wire to wind a new coil 39 awg. So this will be temporary fix if I can make it work.
The resistance on the ac coil 890 ohms,don,t have a real good amp meter but seems to be 1 amp or less.I have ordered the wire to wind a new coil 39 awg. So this will be temporary fix if I can make it work.
The DC coils in the 240v machines are about 4.3-4.4 kohm
Hmmmmm.. 12 W. Backing into that .. tempting... to wire a lamp socket in series, see if an oven or appliance or Christmas-tree lamp comes out about right, and voila!
Eye-candy direction indicator lamps as a side benefit!
Six months hence.. new thread on PM:
"The light has gone out on my machine, and it won't run in forward!
"Typical Middle Manager issue. Just screw out the dimbulb and screw in one that light things up. Dry. Of course. I did say "middle" manager?"
4 x NOS 2K Ohms Workman 25 Watt Power Resistors! | eBay
cheap light bulbs here......with twice the dissipation capacity
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