Before you consider the Module drive dauntingly complex or confusing, just think on this:
Nothing is hidden You can even see the electrodes inside the tubes.
With either of a VFD or DC drive, a single packaged circuit - one of dozens - can have more components than everything out in plain view on the "Hollow-state" drive.
So yes, it is TEDIOUS and time-consuming to replace every wire, clean every terminal, test and test again as you go.
But you do that one at a time.
So it can be done. It HAS been done.
And now that Tim has well-proven Solid State tube substitutes, there is no longer the issue of sourcing the big "semi-unobtanium" fire bottles, either.
- As to which is "better"? The "4Q" SSD - or any OTHER "Regenerative" DC Drive that is otherwise adequate (the Beel/BICL D510 proved to not be) does most things better than the Modular.
But we just don't have enough owners that have BOTH of:
- a PROPER SSD drive - with adequate full-isolation boost (290-320 VAC) on the input AND the required, not optional "ripple filter" to smooth the Single-Phase Drive.
And
- A Modular in good condition.
To do side-by side comparison. To see how much it actually MATTERS.
Surely both make chips.
An SSD from an empty hole is around $3,000, all new parts?
Repair of a module drive should be under $1,000?
Used parts, an SSD conversion CAN get there, too. Or even a tad lower, The Modulae drive transformer, for example, is re-usable with an SSD. That saves a significant chunk of money.
You have research to do. Parts to price, a decision to take.
First, vet the motor!
ONE will "creep" it. But
TWO 12 V IC engine batteries in series move it a tad more naturally even if slowly. That can help you ascertain if it has any damaged windings or wedged commutator segments.
Patience is not easy. But it is
cheaper than haste. And not by "just a lttle bit".
PS: Thanks, nothing personal. But I don't "do" the "Friends" social-thing.
I HAVE friends. I just need to reserve the ability to hammer them when on PM without worry I might unduly offend!