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Monarch 10ee Serial number 44804

m-lud

Stainless
Joined
Sep 4, 2016
I ran across a monarch 10 ee hiding in a shed with a bunch of tractors. I'm going to try to work a deal with the owner. I haven't heard it run and may not be able to considering the location.
It appears to be in excellent condition with a steady rest. I didn't think to see if it had a taper attachment. I lifted the tarp and my adrenaline started flowing. I have always wanted one.
Is there serial number information on these lathes by date built and how equipped when sold?
I have looked on line and prices are all over the place. I know pricing is hard to guess not knowing more but a guess of a fair price as described would be appreciated. Ill get more information and photos Friday.. Serial # 44804
No tooling or extra chucks that I could see. I just took a short look.
I may be able to work a partial trade for helping him out.

I'm helping this old gentleman get a fork truck running. Got it started and hydraulic fluid is pumping out of the control valve seals. Ill be there for awhile.
 
Of all my searching I didn't read the stickeys:confused:
Looks like 1960 but advice or additional information is appreciated
 
5K max value but could easily drop to 1/2 of that, less even still if missing major parts.


I hear what your saying.
It looks complete. Its a little dusty but no rusty cleanup to do. Ill get pictures Friday. I guess I should pull the end cover and get pictures of that electronic drive system I read about. I follow this forum some and know that it can be a expensive and somewhat troublesome to repair. There are options for changing that but I would like it working as original.. The owner said the previous owner used it often. His favorite say's the current 0wner

I may barter for the lathe
There are about thirty lathe's, mills and surface grinders in this shed. He asked if I could help him sell them. Huge task. I told him some wont bring a lot. There are some nice manual vertical mills. Some early cnc., A Cincinnati Cinova horizontal with a vertical head and rotary table. I'm guessing 1980's by the electronics
About 25 antique tractors. 50x100 building stuffed full. The previous owner fell and became wheelchair bound and this guy bought the land building and contents, He knows his tractors but knows nothing about the machinery and wants it sold. They are an elderly .couple.
I should start a thread on the antique forum if I take on the task of helping him sell them. There is a three phase generator untested by him. Ill get it running.. To sell them they need to be wired and running for a buyer. My opinion
You never know what's in that shed you drive by out in the boonies.
 
I made a deal on this lathe for $3,000 partial labor trade and partial cash, I have traded labor for a few of my machines.
Here are a few photos. There is a broken flat belt . Some copper oxide on a electrical connection that I'll clean up or replace.
The ways look good and little more than a thou backlash in the cross feed and compound slide. No tooling or extra chucks.. Has steady rest and taper attachment.
Electronics all appear untouched. Ill work through any electrical issues with the wealth of information on this forum. Although don't expect issues. My first lathe out of the slow speed group. I like those too.
Original paint?
Thanks Mike

Don't click attachments.

Photos aren't the best.
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I made a deal on this lathe for $3,000 partial labor trade and partial cash, I have traded labor for a few of my machines.
Here are a few photos. There is a broken flat belt . Some copper oxide on a electrical connection that I'll clean up or replace.
The ways look good and little more than a thou backlash in the cross feed and compound slide. No tooling or extra chucks.. Has steady rest and taper attachment.
Electronics all appear untouched. Ill work through any electrical issues with the wealth of information on this forum. Although don't expect issues. My first lathe out of the slow speed group. I like those too.

Pretty much a stock 10EE with a taper attachment. Looks to be in decent shape. Good news is that the drive is a single phase drive and can usually be run on 220, but that can be checked when you get it out.

PM me for a manual, the one below is for the same lathe but with a later drive.
 
My lathe 9s still out in another location. I sure would like to be cleaning it up and changing the oil. In the photo was there an other half to that chip pan/cover on the taper attachment?
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I have a couple more photos of the drive and control module. One very bad pict8re. What I'm hoping is that you guys that know these different modules real well will recognize and can verify what phase it runs on. The tag photo was useless.
Russ indicated it appears to be 220 single phase but not 100% until verified.
Ill be able to find out next Monday but I'm starving to read more about the module I have. I read the manual and different threads until I went computer blind but I'm ready to read some more. Scheduled to get 1st cataract removed soon
John thanks for the scan and Russ thanks for the manual.

It wont kill me to wait until Monday if its not evident which phase t needs. Single/ 220 Or three phase. The guys that came up with these drives were damm sharp for the era. I'm understanding some of it.
. I ran printing presses that Eaton dynamic drives. They needed a soft start to get a 3600 pound roll of paper rolling without stripping the web and needed tension control to maintain close registration.
Thanks Mike


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Check for bed wear

If there is visible wear to the left of the carriage on the inside of the front triangular way, no matter how pretty it is, it needs more work than it has value.

It does not mean you cannot make parts with it, but it limits its value
 
Photo#1 is of the monarch panel. I see L1- L2- and L3 that indicates three phase. L2 and L3 are on one motor starter. L1 is on another relay. My question may be stupid but having L1 on a separate breaker that has110 volts on the coil tells me its just being used as a 110 circuit
L1 and L3 appear to be used as a 220 circuit. Is L1 the transformer for switching the starter?

I don't have a schematic. Is the model that can be wired as 220 single phase for l2 and l3 for the motor starter. And a separate 110 circuit for L1.

This lathe does have a coolant pump.
I don't usually have trouble wiring three phase but this looks different.

I don't do anything unless I'm sure. And I'm not sure! Especially on this lathe. I don't want to make smoke.

I have read that these lathes need true three phase not a static starter. I can see why all three lines need to be balanced in this lathe

Please correct my thinking on this.

Monarch-10EE.jpg

I have seen 10ee lathes of this era with round top v ways. The v ways on mine are sharp edge v's. They look very good other than some staining where the saddle sat for some extended time. I suppose the saddle could be worn because its not heat treated like the bed ways. I want to clean things up before cranking the saddle around much. Its Sticky, probably dried coolant.
I believe its a tight lathe but know that can change after its lubed and cleaned up.

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I think getting the history and manual and hopefully a schematic from Monarch will be my next step.
 
Here's an extract from the 10EE modular schematic showing that it's single phase - note that L1 and L3 are the only supply to the drive, L2 is only needed for the coolant pump or hydraulic pump (if used).

10ee_modular_supply.png
 
Here's an extract from the 10EE modular schematic showing that it's single phase - note that L1 and L3 are the only supply to the drive, L2 is only needed for the coolant pump or hydraulic pump (if used).
10ee_modular_supply.png
I took my 5hp RPC out too test run some machinery for the guy that sold me my 10ee. I know that I can run my lathe on 220 volts.
I want too test run my 10ee. If I plug in my lathe to my RPC should I verify that I'm running the drive motor T1&T2 off of the two incoming lines L1&L3 and not the manufactured line. The previous owner had plugs already on all the machinery including my 10ee.
I have not traced The manufactured line to the lathe plug yet but would be easy to do. I know the coolant pump is the only motor that requires three phase. That's not going to be used now.
Should I just Wire L1 and L3 to the [current transformer primaries] T1& T2 and forget the RPC for now.
Im trying to use the existing plug and pre made cord but verifying 9ncoming lines
 
Do not use the RPC on a "Hollow State" (Tube drive) 10EE.

Genuine single-phase. Be happy!

Single-phase coolant pumps start at about $90 in 120/240 selectable, cast-iron or poly bodied, Taiwan. Mexico, or even USA msde, not China.


Swap is easier than messing with 3-P power for a piddly load.

Bill

That's practical. I was out there testing machines and almost plugged in my 10ee. Then thought, what if my manufactured line was going to the drive. I stopped.
I will get a single phase coolant pump if I feel the need.
I am happy its 220 single phase.

That long drawn out post was verifying not to use the manufactured leg. You verified.
I was trying to use his plug.
He was running off of real three phase, I'm not
I almost squweed up.
 
The 10ee made it home yesterday.20201012_092019 (2).jpg

What mounts on this bracket?20201012_095334.jpg


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Its still on the trailer. I jumped on the Hyster 80 to lift it off and the clutch is stuck to the flywheel Again. Sitting too long.
I wrapped the lathe up in a tarp.
If I cant get the lift truck going in a day or two I'll get a tow truck to get it off the trailer.


The compound screw is pretty clean. It has about 6 thousands slop in the center area. I'll be happy to live with that.
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The bracket is to hold "Monarch" lathe tools.

Hal

It looked like an original feature. Ill try to find or substitute those tools. Its pretty stout.

20201012_141208.jpgThe tailstock spindle looks great. So far I haven't found any disasters.
I removed the thyratron tubes for the move.

One missing part that I would like to find is the worm for the taper attachment micrometer.
20201012_142649.jpgIt mounts too this shaft. I hate to call monarch. I'm sure it's proprietary to the micrometer. I can live without it but it would be nice to have. The worm gear looks good. 20201009_125228.jpgThe under side of the micrometer bracket. The only reason the dial didnt fall out was because the oil created suction between surfaces. Surface tension.

I'm sure I'll have questions. Overall it feels pretty tight. No test bar yet.
 
...
One missing part that I would like to find is the worm for the taper attachment micrometer.
View attachment 301799
It mounts too this shaft. I hate to call monarch. I'm sure it's proprietary to the micrometer. I can live without it but it would be nice to have. The worm gear looks good.
View attachment 301800
The under side of the micrometer bracket. ...
Harry Bloom made most of the parts for a micrometer adjuster for one of his 10EEs. See "Wreck" Update The TA stuff starts at about post #214.

Cal
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