Monarch 10ee tach wont move, spindle on/off switch intermittent problem

Hello everybody , I am getting 1943 monarch 10ee, getting it delivered in few weeks. I know machine has few issues,
Tach doesnt move at all.
And spindle on/off forward/reverse switch works intermittently. I am wondering if anybody had similar issue fixed. I would love to hear direction what to look, and check, replace. Any input would be appreciated.

If when you get it and look inside the headstock, you'll see the gears that drive the tach. If you spin the spindle and all of those gears look like they are spinning and engaged to the tach, then probably the tach is bad.The good news is that the tach was usually made by Stewart-Warner(at least mine was) and can be restored and repaired by any speedo shop that works on antique cars. I don't have the name of the shop that did mine in front of me, but I talked to the guy that did it and he says these tachs are really good quality.
As far as the switch, sounds like a take apart and good clean is what it needs.

Thank you, i will check those thing you mentioned.

When I bought my round dial and the guy was demo'ing it for me he stated "It has always had a hard time going into reverse". Well when I took it apart the switch stack (you'll understand when you take it apart) it only had one of the very long screws in it so the parts were all just floating around. So sometimes they would line up and sometimes they wouldn't. It was a very easy fix and so far it's been flawless. Let's hope yours turns out to be that simple.

Look at these...

Pull back cover- it's a round disc recessed flush into the back of the headstock, direclty behind the contorl lever- Here's what that switch looks like... the two screws holding the top plate are kinda necessary, as per the notes above. If they're loose, then tighten 'em. The crosspin at the top, is driven by coupling on the front handle (see it though hole in second picture?) That crosspin is tapered, as is the hole, and if someone put it in backwards, it'll work, but not so great, and when it falls out, you'll out-cuss a sailor fishing it out of the iron netherworld below, so put it in the right way. ;-)

Contacts are those metal bands under the very obvious brushes. The orientation you see in the early pictures is how mine came out of my '42 M-G unit... but the 'after' cleanup picture shows the contacts rearranged to suit the Allen-Bradley 1336 (very antique, but new, and dirt-cheap) 10hp VFD in the belly... so don't rearrange your contacts to match mine! ;-)

Wow,, that’s help fuel as well,, thanks for taking time posting this.

It's an excellent switch- they don't make stuff like this anymore...

The cool thing about these switches, is that since they're modular, you can disassemble and reassemble them with different contact orientations to change what circuits switch where in which positions. In my case, the Allen Bradley 1336 used a run-stop and forward-reverse contact combination that wasn't directly compatible with the logic of the original contact orientations, so I just had 'ta figure out how to get what I needed from this one.

Bad part, is that they're modular, and can be disassembled, and reassembled to do whatever you want... as long as you don't drop the pieces and fumble around on the floor with cheater glasses trying to find the piece that actually fell into my front shirt pocket. I cussed all night, and all the next day, 'till my wife found it in the laundry machine. ;-)

Bless her... for having the wisdom and patience to realize that some wierd piece of whatever in the laundry is an absolutely priceless thing that came from an antique machine that seriously... serously... needed it back...