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  1. #21
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    Correct! Headstock COVER only.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Also well-worth the very modest cost to fit a sheet of clear Lexan across it, run it with a strong LED light to-hand - eyeball it all to make CERTAIN lubes are going where they need to go, and nothing is bent, wobbling about, etc.
    Never even thought about that, I just let the oil fling.

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    HOPEFULLY.. you meant "pulling the headstock TOP COVER"... only?

    And, yes. Well-worth it. Any used geared-head.

    Also well-worth the very modest cost to fit a sheet of clear Lexan across it, run it with a strong LED light to-hand - eyeball it all to make CERTAIN lubes are going where they need to go, and nothing is bent, wobbling about, etc.

    A bent shifter fork, my 10EE, held dog clutches mis-positioned.

    WELL worth that sort of inspection, cheap as plastic is. Also wipe rags, of course!

    I'm also gonna take your advice on this. Thank you.

    Sent from my S61 using Tapatalk

  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.kitko View Post
    If you meant pulling the head stock, how hard are they to pull?

    Sent from my S61 using Tapatalk
    Cole has edited to specify the cover. We are now all on the same page, lube system & c. inspection-wise.

    Plastic cover kludge may sound "sissy" but as you run it, "oil happens!", even if not terribly so. Also has the kinda neat byproduct of not having safety glasses nor LED flashlights slip off yer tilted head or outta yer greasy hands, fall in and become gear-food.



    The ENTIRE HS? That has to be done before planing and/or grinding the bed, but not necessarily for Biax and/or hand scraping if NO planing or grinding.

    If NOT doing the bed, full-length - disturbing the HS <=> Bed ways alignment is best avoided. Not rocket insemination, just tedious to get it back right if one has to keep lifting it off, scraping, trying it back on for fit, repeat, repeat, until done-or-go-bugf**k....

    Besides the lifting, scraping, lowering, positioning, the MEASUREMENT set up and use is sore tedious to do accurately.

  7. #25
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    About testing oil flow... Running the machine with the head stock open will create an world class oil spill in an instant. Even in low gear that input shaft is turning its normal 800+ RPM. The way I tested mine was to stick a socket in the chuck and power the lathe spindle with a cordless drill with a socket adapter. Just slip a dog clutch to the center (neutral position) so you are only spinning the spindle and not the whole gear train. The oil pump is cam driven from the spindle so you just need those parts moving.

    Mike

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohio Mike View Post
    About testing oil flow... Running the machine with the head stock open will create an world class oil spill in an instant. Even in low gear that input shaft is turning its normal 800+ RPM. The way I tested mine was to stick a socket in the chuck and power the lathe spindle with a cordless drill with a socket adapter. Just slip a dog clutch to the center (neutral position) so you are only spinning the spindle and not the whole gear train. The oil pump is cam driven from the spindle so you just need those parts moving.

    Mike
    Good advice..

    We who have the earlier "round dial" MG-era 10EE don't have an oil pump. What we DO have is the ability to dial the speed down and - as our speed-reducer is at the motor, nothing at all is spinning any faster in an open HS box ... perhaps 20 RPM, reduction gears engaged at the motor-end?

    800 RPM?

    Welll. then there's the Parker-SSD DC Drive...

    Would you believe several minutes per revolution, not several revolutions per minute?



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