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  1. #21
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    These are the big transformers, not the control transformer.

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  2. #22
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    You will need to see how the control transformer is wired If it is wired so that 220V is the output is going to the controls then your machine is 440V and you will need the transformer to power the motor 220V to 440V as your motor is single voltage only or you will need to change the motor. the coil on the relay is marked 220 the other way to check is to see what size heaters are installed in the starter and see if that matches with the HP of the motor.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by labeeman View Post
    You will need to see how the control transformer is wired If it is wired so that 220V is the output is going to the controls then your machine is 440V and you will need the transformer to power the motor 220V to 440V as your motor is single voltage only or you will need to change the motor. the coil on the relay is marked 220 the other way to check is to see what size heaters are installed in the starter and see if that matches with the HP of the motor.
    Here is the plug from the wall.

    Here is the inside of the control box and the heater up close. Anyone have a best guess on the size of the motor based on this?

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  4. #24
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    My best guess is 7.5hp...

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  5. #25
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    Was that plug going to the lathe or to the Big transformer?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by labeeman View Post
    Was that plug going to the lathe or to the Big transformer?
    Plug to the transformer...then transformer goes to lathe controller...

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  7. #27
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    Yep looks like you have a 440V lathe if you have 440V 3Ph then you will not need the transformer If you only have 220V 3ph then you need the transformer.

  8. #28
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    The transformer is a 230 to 440. I haven't totally ruled it out, but I'd like to run it on the lower 220V if it is at all feasible
    The few wires coming out of motor in general will guarantee 440/460/480 - though there are ancient three wire 220 motors that are that voltage only, but the presence of the hefty step-up transformers would not be along for the ride, would they?

    Dual voltage motors usually have at least NINE coming from motor, all nicely tagged with a "T" number

    True, the other wires may be in there - if that is the case an electric motor shop can fish them out

    But it is just as likely to be a high volt only motor

    Accommodating the high volts to the motor may very well eliminate the need for some other value set of "heaters" (thermal overloads) - that are way beyond obsolete

    My CW 16 has 7.5 HP

  9. #29
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    Finally got it in place and did some minor cleaning. You guys were right about the power angular feed, someone took pieces from one lathe and combined it with another. The bevel gear is there on the upper half, but the lower half has been completely modified to fit the lathe I have. I actually wonder how hard it would be to add that feature. Just a dream on that one.

    Oh, I am completely impressed with the lead screw reverse. I was completely baffled by that up till I rotated the spindle and tried messing with it. It actually only locks in in one location, so you never loose the thread your on with the thread dial if you reverse the feed. Again, way too impressed.

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  10. #30
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    What's the point of this knob? Is this a thread stop and if so, how does it work?

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  11. #31
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    My 16CY has a 7.5 HP dual voltage motor. When i pulled the motor the leads were all cracked and dry. I evaluated getting a new motor vs repairing the old one. A new motor would have been a different frame size and due to to the smaller frame size, would have required a mechanical adapter. Also, the smaller frame size results in less running inertia and therefore less instantaneous torque to respond to sudden load changes. To compensate for this the motor shop recommended i purchase a 10 HP motor. Total bid for this was $875. The alternative was to strip the old motor down, steam clean it, change the bearings, clean out all the old grease, megger the windings and splice on new leads. The total pain on this was $1200. I took the second more painful option because my RPC is only rated to start a 5HP motor. I may add a second idler but i didn't want to get too far into the changes to the RPC.

  12. #32
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    You screw it in and the cross slide has a positive stop in and out - with maybe two turns in between. Wrong place? Unscrew and do again.

    Quote Originally Posted by michael.kitko View Post
    What's the point of this knob? Is this a thread stop and if so, how does it work?

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  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    Right size metal "wash pan" maybe?

    Basically a truncated cone with a flat back end and a flange to mount it

    Flange about 12 3/4 OD, Cone base (which is a short cylinder) is 11 1/4. Cone side is 19 1/2 degrees. Sharp corner to sharp corner at small end of cone 7 3/4. Nice big radius here. Inside depth 6".

    Its magnetic, so I assume cast iron

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    You screw it in and the cross slide has a positive stop in and out - with maybe two turns in between. Wrong place? Unscrew and do again.
    That's what I thought, but I am thinking this one is broken. I'll look into it further. Thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael.kitko View Post
    I actually wonder how hard it would be to add that feature. Just a dream on that one.
    You probably have "enough" of it there to DO that if you want to badly enough.

    Downside is that "neat" it may be, but it doesn't have much USE for any but a few edge-cases. Which it was built to address, but still.. will YOU have even ONE such need, at all, ever?

    Disclosure: My "dream" is to fit a used US-made hydraulic tracer (already here..) to my HBX-360-BC, but only because...Cazeneuve had shipped it AS a tracer and the rear-mount, reservoir tank and pump is still there.

    The Bruet-patent rear-mount topslide and stylus are long-gone.

    The US made Mimik, OTOH, is still a production item, and spares can be had.

    What possible use it is? Tapers. At least in theory.

    The challenge of doing it, whether ever USED or never, more honestly.

    "Your Mileage May Vary"


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  17. #36
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    Default 460 Single Voltage

    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    The few wires coming out of motor in general will guarantee 440/460/480 - though there are ancient three wire 220 motors that are that voltage only, but the presence of the hefty step-up transformers would not be along for the ride, would they?

    Dual voltage motors usually have at least NINE coming from motor, all nicely tagged with a "T" number...

    My CW 16 has 7.5 HP
    My CW has controls that look identical to yours. The motor is 7.5 HP 460 only. 3 wires. I swapped it for a 7.5 HP dual voltage motor that I luckily had on hand.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180830_073445.jpg  

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