Monarch CY 16 Winter Project - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Default Getting creative

    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    You got a mill? If so, I think this part can be salvaged with some creativity and brazing rod.


    I got creative...

    lever-picture.jpg

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    I got creative...

    lever-picture.jpg
    That is a neat solution. Reminds me of the "billet" rocker arms you can buy in place of cast or stamped ones.

    Keep that CAD file, if one of mine ever breaks I'll buy one from you! (The clutch on my CW looks pretty similar to yours).

    You've inspired me to apply a similar construction to the broken levers on my gearbox and apron.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    I got creative...

    lever-picture.jpg
    Did you make the pieces on a CNC mill?

    Cal

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    Did you make the pieces on a CNC mill?

    Cal
    No, I don't own a mill yet. I cut out the parts on a laser table, from different thicknesses of material based on required width and width of roller. I initially hold together with a split pin (I'm going to add another pin closer to the roller), add roller with an oversized dowel, and attach with either another dowel or bolt and nut. I haven't decided.

  5. #25
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    Default

    20181109_163128.jpg


    20181109_171711.jpg

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  7. #26
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    I got creative...

    lever-picture.jpg
    LOL! That IS righteous!

    Recall Copper being too DIFFICULT for Englands's finest to bore fast and accurately to make cavity Magnetrons for early RADAR?

    Sneaky Americans cheated. As usual.

    Just punched sheets of Copper foil, stacked and furnace brazed them!

    "Silflo" and cousins still work. Right strong bond when there's lots of surface area, too.

    See also "Master" stacked lamination padlock bodies & the almost-forgotten usefullness of the ignorant "rivit".

    Good on Yah!


  8. #27
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    I believe I can move on... I have assebled, test fit and appears to be functioning as it should. The clutch disk is on its way back from Industrial Brake.

    20181111_100901.jpg

  9. #28
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    20181115_160729.jpg

    The clutch disc just came in and looks great. 5/32" material on both sides glued and riveted.

  10. Likes Cal Haines, labeeman, Hobby Shop liked this post
  11. #29
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    Default

    20181128_151228.jpg
    20181128_151222.jpg
    20181126_171442.jpg

    As you can see I have several projects going on at the same time.

    The motor seems original. Allis chalmers 7.5 HP. Im going to have to remove, replace bearings and rewire for 230V 3 phase.

    I have disassembled the Allen Bradley motor cabenet, remove the unused, components, 480V to 110V transformer, auxiliary power for 110v attachments...
    The 705, reversing starter is in good shape. I have opted to replace the contacts though I could have reconditioned the existing.

    One big success, the feed screw and power rod drive was not broke, it was disabled by moving the gear drive out so it wouldn't make contact.

    Considering this lathe was used as a production station based on the posted work instructions when I picked up the lathe, the drive must have been disabled so as not to accidentally being engaged. Considering the excellent condition of the gears and apron, i doubt if they were used for a long time.

    The drive gears have been removed and I am installing new bearings. Plenty of cleaning to do though.

    More to come.

  12. #30
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    It has come time paint some parts in primer since we are in the wet season here. I don't want to leave parts bear and have to contend with rust.

    I rummaged through this forum to for advise on paint. Excellent Resource!

    I have chosen Sherwin Williams Polane Spray Fill for the Primer. It has the properties I need and appears to have very good resistance to the environment of oil and coolant.

    I thought I'd share part numbers and price since I received a variety of quotes:

    13 parts Lt. Gray Primer - D61A23 - $49.70 gal
    1 part Catalyst - V66V27 - $23.42 quart
    2 parts Reducer - R7K84 - $16.60 gal

    I'm pretty sure it will take more than a gallon but this is a good start.

    Interestingly I started at my Local Sherwin Williams Paint shop and they quoted me prices more than double and had a minimum of 4 gallons. I highly recommend you look for the nearest Sherwin Williams Industrial store. Mine happens to be 80 miles away and I'm having these shipped.

    More to come,

    William

  13. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    ...

    I have chosen Sherwin Williams Polane Spray Fill for the Primer. It has the properties I need and appears to have very good resistance to the environment of oil and coolant.

    ...
    You should SERIOUSLY reconsider your choice. Polane is one of the paints that uses isocyanates in the hardener. This is a professional grade product that should only be used by people that at trained AND EQUIPPED to safely use it. There are cases of people suffering serious, lasting neurological damage from a single exposure to isocyanates.

    You need to get the safety data sheets for the paint AND ESPECIALLY THE HARDENER. If there is any mention of needing a supplied air respirator, then you need to do something else! Just to be clear, a supplied air respirator has a hose that supplies clean air from outside; a simple cartridge respirator will not filter out the isocyanates. Other equipment includes head-to-toe protection--think haz-mat suit.

    2008-109a.jpg

    CDC - NIOSH - Isocyanates

    Cal

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  15. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    You should SERIOUSLY reconsider your choice. Polane is one of the paints that uses isocyanates in the hardener. This is a professional grade product that should only be used by people that at trained AND EQUIPPED to safely use it. There are cases of people suffering serious, lasting neurological damage from a single exposure to isocyanates.

    You need to get the safety data sheets for the paint AND ESPECIALLY THE HARDENER. If there is any mention of needing a supplied air respirator, then you need to do something else! Just to be clear, a supplied air respirator has a hose that supplies clean air from outside; a simple cartridge respirator will not filter out the isocyanates. Other equipment includes head-to-toe protection--think haz-mat suit.

    2008-109a.jpg

    CDC - NIOSH - Isocyanates

    Cal

    Thanks so very much for the warning.

    I have read both the Safety and environmental data sheet. See links below. I don't own a painting booth. I will be painting outside. I will be wearing all PPE per manufacturers recommendations.



    https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWOEM&lang=E&doctype=SDS&prodno= D61A23
    https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWOEM&lang=E&doctype=EDS&prodno= D61A23

  16. #33
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    Consider Sherwin Williams Kem Bond primer which is one part and thins with Xylene, if you want to stay with a Sherwin Williams product. I've primed some of my lathe parts with it and it covers well. Will be thinning it a little to try to get a smoother finish, as it dries pretty quick. It did accept a light sanding to knock down the high spots (although a little gummy like most enamels are when sanded).

    I'm following up with their Pro Industrial Urethane Alkyd enamel, which has been recommended here and can be tinted to any color on the Sherwin Williams chart. Can't advise how it spreads or levels, I'm not at that stage yet. The people who have recommended it say it holds up well to solvents, coolant, and chips.

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  18. #34
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    I used SW Macropoxy 646 on my bandsaw a while back and that is some tough stuff. I chip and scrape rusted swarf off the surface but it never seems to harm the paint.

    I don't believe it contains isocyanates either.

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  20. #35
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    Thanks so much. That is why I love this forum.

    I will look into your recommendations.

  21. #36
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    Things are going well with the rebuild. Learning a great deal and enjoying the project. Last I posted I was finishing the clutch. Had to make some parts but all turned out well. Now for the expensive stuff.

    Some questions if you all can assist.

    Again, Monarch 16CY (1943) by 30" Lathe.

    I have dove into the case and cross slide. Cross slide screw and not need to be replaced and I'm on it. Found a gentleman that will make a new nut and I'm working on duplicating the screw. Obviously there will be some precision compromise but it is hard to expect zero back lash.
    I dove into the spindle bearings. Mine, both have been replaced with standard bearings which isn't surprising. After extensive search, Class 0 Timken 842/832 bearing is nearly impossible to obtain and if it was would be way to expensive for a home lathe. I did find Class 3 bearings but again pricey.

    monarch-spindle-cone.jpg

    monarch-spindle-cup.jpg

    Questions
    What is the general consensuses of Timken Class 3 bearings rather than the original unobtainium Class 0?

    I also working on the slop in the Clutch/Brake linkage, found the "brake cone" fork was very loose in the grooves.

    brake-cone.jpg

    What I found was this part is made up of the Brake shoe (taper) the "left" side of the shifting fork surface and a brass collar as the "right" side of the fork shifting surface. If that makes sense. There is also a "plug" that the clutch rod connects to by a taper pin. If you are familiar with this, it makes more sense.
    My question is did Monarch make the collar from brass/bronze originally or was this a fix? This area also has an oil spray from the pump which is understandable.
    The problem with mine is at the end of the use of my lathe, they let the oil level go low and the oil pump pickup was above the oil level. Hence why I'm looking for new spindle bearings and seeing a great deal of wear on this Brass Collar that is the "right" wear surface when activating the clutch. Also the clutch "over center" cam was not adjusted properly and the operator would tie down the clutch lever holding the fork against this brass collar.

    I'm replacing with a bronze collar and have already fixed the clutch.

    Lots of other things going on. I have about five fixes going on at the same time with this lathe. I want to be ready for final paint by this April.

    Plenty to post. Trying to post when a solution is in the works.

    Thanks Everyone

  22. #37
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    20190221_202339.jpg

    This is my oil pump. Pretty straight forward on rebuild. I suppose Monarch makes parts but mine though showing wear on the "piston" and bore, it still functions well. Just need to make sur check valves are clean an seal. I did order new screens and felt from McMaster.

    More to come.

  23. #38
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    Default Crossfeed nut and shaft.

    20190215_162912.jpg

    My cross feed nut shows some interesting past repair. My nut was split, adjusted then pinned and bolted. Very neat fix. It must have worked for a while but both shaft and nut are beyond repair. New nut and shaft are in the works.

    It is quite the archeological dig seeing all the fixes and repairs. So far, very good work with little signs of abuse other than its last few months of operation where they let oil level get low.

  24. #39
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    Default Class 3 842/832

    20190226_205634.jpg
    20190226_205650.jpg

    Was able to remove the spindle bearing. It is the original bearing, signed 9-25-43 3. It is actually a 839, dimensionally the same as an 842.

    Fortunately, I found a replacement Class 3 at a reasonable price.

    Now for the task of removing the race. I need to make a disc for pulling. Wish my lathe was ready...

  25. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    20190226_205634.jpg
    20190226_205650.jpg

    Was able to remove the spindle bearing. It is the original bearing, signed 9-25-43 3. It is actually a 839, dimensionally the same as an 842.

    Fortunately, I found a replacement Class 3 at a reasonable price.

    Now for the task of removing the race. I need to make a disc for pulling. Wish my lathe was ready...
    Once I receive my new bearing, I will not need the original spindle bearing. I really don't know the condition.
    It has lines on the race and the same on the rollers but nothing I can catch my nail on... It someone needs a bearing to get them by, let me know... It is an 839/842 Class 3 original Monarch bearing. See previously posted pictures above.


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