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  1. #101
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    20191202_162742.jpg

    20191202_162902.jpg

    I have finished the TA rebuild, checking the results with setting zero on my new magnifying lens and quantifying wear. I find once I set to zero, I have 0.0006" of wear in the trough surface in the center. I'm calling that good. Doubtful I will ever taper something that long.

    Center on the indicator window is truly center so I'll add a red line on the lens, and call that good. It will only be a reference since any taper adjustment will be indicated in...

    Next, the apron...

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    I'll probably have to make one.
    I can send detailed dimensions on my TA bracket if you need them

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by marka12161 View Post
    I can send detailed dimensions on my TA bracket if you need them
    That would be perfect. Thank you. Yes.

    Im repairing the rod, attaching what is left of the mount.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    That would be perfect. Thank you. Yes.

    Im repairing the rod, attaching what is left of the mount.
    Will do. Give me a day or two. When you get a chance, please check your PMs.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by marka12161 View Post
    Will do. Give me a day or two. When you get a chance, please check your PMs.
    Thank you very much.

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    20191205_163356.jpg

    Zero!

    20191205_165639.jpg

    Calling that good.

  7. #107
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    Permitex steel seal and weld. This was mainly for the back cover latch.

    20191211_163529.jpg

    20191211_163533.jpg

    Not my favorite solution but I don't want to put heat to this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    Permitex steel seal and weld. This was mainly for the back cover latch.

    20191211_163529.jpg

    20191211_163533.jpg

    Not my favorite solution but I don't want to put heat to this.
    looks good from my house

  9. #109
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    So some not so good news. The cross slide tapered gib is beyond the maximum adjustment, Very interesting factory maintenance crew fix...

    20191213_171456.jpg

    I assembled the gib to the position I found it. Not having ever taken a cross slide apart, I made note of how it came apart, including an interesting addition.

    20191213_171930.jpg

    Someone added a "tab washer"?? To push the gib past the maximum adjustment.

    20191213_172549.jpg

    The small end. The gib bolt was bent.

    So from some lengthy research confirmed my first thoughts of shimming the gib.

    20191213_212154.jpg

    From my measurements, i would need 0.020" of shim. I happened to have SS shim stock from end play on the headstock bearing caps.

    I made two shims which gets me to 0.018".

    Now there are definate opinions on shims or machining a new gib and scraping it in. Plenty of posts on how to secure the shims, what shim material to use, are we shimming or padding, what is the thickness of Loctite, you need to scrape after shimming, only real men replace gibs... on and on...

    Quite the saga, full of great reading but I will leave it up to you if you want to dive into the gib shimming pool.

    As much as I would like to go down the "remachine the entire apron" path, I'm going to go with the frugal fix and if I just can't live with myself, I'll revisit.

    And the last bit of bad news, the wiper cover is broke...

    20191213_171611.jpg
    Last edited by WillWilly; 12-14-2019 at 11:41 AM.

  10. #110
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    20191213_171617.jpg

    The sixth picture and more than 10 charactors.

  11. #111
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    As far as the wiper cover, just weld or braze it and go one with life. The gib will function much better if it scraped in as well as the rest of the bearing surfaces.

    Tom

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    20191213_171617.jpg

    The sixth picture (.... was already SEVENTEEN, given one-space at a go counts, too)
    Dunno how or WHY it bustid, but I'd just lay a strip of steel acrost it, line it up proper. Drill, countersink both sides, and soft-Iron rivet it flushed.

    All it has to do is function. Not pose for movin' pitcher shows with pretty ladies.

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  15. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Dunno how or WHY it bustid, but I'd just lay a strip of steel acrost it, line it up proper. Drill, countersink both sides, and soft-Iron rivet it flushed.

    All it has to do is function. Not pose for movin' pitcher shows with pretty ladies.
    I like that idea. Im afraid with my Lincoln Mig 125 with argon I could just make a mess of it. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    I like that idea. Im afraid with my Lincoln Mig 125 with argon I could just make a mess of it. Thanks
    Oddly, 90% of the Arc i struck with my old Grainger/Dayton AC stick - about as poor a welder as ever was that could still join metal, actually - was on 0.042" wall square tubing and even had to LOOK nice. And did. But it were a pain in the anatomy to make 'em so, beans and second-rate bacon budget days.

    Worse? I credit an also too-damned-cheap mask and filter lens as a contributor to eventual sore blinding cataracts.

    Having had those fixed with bionic eyes, 20/15 near-as-dammit perfect L/R no need of glasses near or far vision?

    I gave the alleged welder away... to the guy next door's Bro. In Law!

    Any more welding I have needed since? I just HIRE done, and from folks who were always seriously BETTER welders than I ever was or cared about.

    Rivets OTOH? Those I'm BITCHIN' good at, "Blind" ones and damned near "vanished", a favourite trick since I was a cocky kid, still showin' off that long-handled "German pattern" hammer Herr Pelz had walked me through making for myself - then learnin' how to sorta "vibrate" for setting-down or crowning!

    Get connected with an old master as did his apprenticeship dawn of the 1900's Germany still "new" enough as an integrated nation he always called himself a "Schwabe", some Old Skewl ways were still first-choice and blitz-quick as well.


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  18. #115
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    Cool

    I think I have finished obsessing over the Taper Attachment. Finished the indicator with a 29mm magnifying watch crystal on top of a 29x1mm oring, then covered that with a 1.25"x1/8" glass disc on top of a 32mm oring.

    20191214_112514.jpg

    And, finished the new gear, drilling through the original taper hole, finally acquired the correct taper pin ream (#1) and installed. Works very smooth.

    20191214_112534.jpg

    So on to the shelf to make room for the next project.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillWilly View Post
    So some not so good news. The cross slide tapered gib is beyond the maximum adjustment, Very interesting factory maintenance crew fix...

    20191213_171456.jpg

    I assembled the gib to the position I found it. Not having ever taken a cross slide apart, I made note of how it came apart, including an interesting addition.

    20191213_171930.jpg

    Someone added a "tab washer"?? To push the gib past the maximum adjustment.

    20191213_172549.jpg

    The small end. The gib bolt was bent.

    So from some lengthy research confirmed my first thoughts of shimming the gib.

    20191213_212154.jpg

    From my measurements, i would need 0.020" of shim. I happened to have SS shim stock from end play on the headstock bearing caps.

    I made two shims which gets me to 0.018".

    Now there are definate opinions on shims or machining a new gib and scraping it in. Plenty of posts on how to secure the shims, what shim material to use, are we shimming or padding, what is the thickness of Loctite, you need to scrape after shimming, only real men replace gibs... on and on...

    Quite the saga, full of great reading but I will leave it up to you if you want to dive into the gib shimming pool.

    As much as I would like to go down the "remachine the entire apron" path, I'm going to go with the frugal fix and if I just can't live with myself, I'll revisit.

    And the last bit of bad news, the wiper cover is broke...

    20191213_171611.jpg
    My machine suffers from all the same conditions.

  20. #117
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    The 'good' thing about shimming in that location: it is easy to get to. If you change your mind, and need to or want to create a new gib, and scrape it in, it's not an all day job to get it apart..
    I'm pretty sure I could have my cross feed off and on the work bench in 15 minutes..

    Some shimming jobs are 'made in Heaven'.. some not so much: when you put the shims behind the gib, did the gib sit square, firmly in touch with the shims full length? It should have, since the shims are located where there is no movement or wear.

    The next determining evaluation would be: when you tighten the gib enough to get a slight drag, is that drag consistent over the full travel of the slide? If so, that's great.. but often the slide will be tight on one end of the travel or both.
    But if you know where it's slightly loose and where it 's tight, you can adjust your tooling to be where it minimizes your wear..

    All part of 'knowing' your machine..

    DualValve

  21. #118
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    From one who has done all the above to a 12CK, it was a lot of work put the machine back into first class capabilities. I did not regrind the bed, it was in very good condition, but I did remachine and scrape the dovetails of the cross slide and compound. The gibs had to either be replaced or shimmed. I chose to shim the compound .020 and braze up the cross slide gib. Adjusting the gibs was a problem at the time but have recently devised a method that works well to scrape the gibs. I revisited them and with just a small amount of scraping brought the compound and cross slide to a degree of smoothness and accuracy that is a pleasure use. Nothing worse than a gib that doesn't fit right.

    Tom

  22. #119
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    Well looked it over several times and welding my broken cross slide wiper holder/guard was the best option.

    20191215_140401.jpg

    20191215_140409.jpg

    20191215_141814.jpg

    I attached the guard to the cross slide, ground v's in the crack 3/4's the way through the material, preheated, and welded with running tacks, post heated, let cool, ground, filed and flap wheel. I'm glad this was a success!

    It's the little things...

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  24. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    The next determining evaluation would be: when you tighten the gib enough to get a slight drag, is that drag consistent over the full travel of the slide? If so, that's great.. but often the slide will be tight on one end of the travel or both.
    But if you know where it's slightly loose and where it 's tight, you can adjust your tooling to be where it minimizes your wear..

    All part of 'knowing' your machine..

    DualValve
    Excellent advice. Mine has the wear you describe, it is good in the middle and snug on the ends. I was just determining how snug I can live with. Of course this would lead to scraping or milling the apron...

    I'm using a 12"x1/2" feeler guage as my shim. It contacts well and along the entire length. I can adjust out all play and still run to both ends, so there is still some life there... when I get to the apron, Ill look into a proper straight edge and see if it is in scraping distance.

    For now, I'm shimming and revisit if I need to.

    This ol production horse is going to pasture with only occasional riding.


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