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Monarch ee heads up.

donie

Diamond
Joined
May 17, 2003
Location
Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
Looks like a couple of late model I/M ee lathes have squeezed out of Hanfords back door and now on ebay.
One an 83 module, the other 84 regenerative. The 83,
Monarch 10EE High Precision Toolroom Lathe 12 1/2" SWING BUILT 1983 | eBay

The 84 here
Monarch 10EE High Precision Toolroom Lathe 12 1/2" SWING | eBay

I am pretty sure I seen these two lathes at the site before 911 when one could go out there. The machines were in a lab situation. the 84 is probably in the best mechanical shape, as it was more often out of service due to the more complex drive.
It looks like the machines spent time in the weather and have been scotchbrighted by certified experts! Something to keep in mind if you want to shed 17500. Who Knows! HGR did move a similar regenerative drive ee, in what looked like better condition for 13500.
 
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I was seconds away from offering on that HGR one when Industrial Assets Machinery popped the Sandia Labs I/M on ebay with fuzzy photos. I took the risk, made an offer and here it is, better than I expected. Original listing did not include "inch metric" in the title, and it was very difficult to see anything the original pictures.

I could guesstimate that it had the I/M dials & ELSR, and jumped on it quick. Asked them for better pics and they replied they hadn't even picked it up yet. After the offer they said they would except it but only as-is, warning me it needed tubes etc.


These two on ebay now look good.
 
I looked at a inch metric, a week ago, I think it is an 84 model, under power, near Rochester, NY.
He would like to get more than Monarch has offered him for it.
Lots of tooling and extras available that Monarch doesn't want.

PM me if interested, I will try to get some pix Sunday and start another thread.

Bill
 
The two Hanford machines above had full compliment cabinets, but if you are an ace, you dont need all that stuff, just some of it.
Now, before you jump on a later then 1983 machine, understand what you are getting into....
 
The two Hanford machines above had full compliment cabinets, but if you are an ace, you dont need all that stuff, just some of it.
Now, before you jump on a later then 1983 machine, understand what you are getting into....

Very good warning! I almost crapped my pants AFTER I agreed to purchase this lathe. I had been searching PM for info on later modular models, only guessing on the year that this one was made. Once the seller gave me a serial number I got more hopeful, but still had my doubts!

Ended up being ordered in 1977 & shipped in 1978.
Thank goodness it wasn't the solid state real-3-phase-only drive.
 
In 2003 when I joined here a well meaning person posted a drive change by year chart that was wrong in that the change was 1983. Back then there was very little known about the module drive, and pretty much nothing on the solid state.
Going by that info, I bought the 1983 machine I still use, thinking "I dont have to deal with the dreaded tubes"! Well the machine came and there were the tubes. I felt very sick just spending over 10k and ending up with tubes. It turned out to be a good thing, as the 84 and up regenerative drive requires balanced 3 phase power, Monarch stopped supporting the drive years ago.
So, of the two machines listed above at the bargain price of $17500 the 83 would be the better choice, as the 84 most likely needs a complete new drive to be useable.

To tell the difference in the drives, just looking at the machine.

On the right hand electrical compartment door, the module machine, the electrical disconnect switch" big switch on the big door" front right, is located about center on the left edge. Same from 1960 to 1983.

Regenerative drive, the disconnect switch is located along the upper edge of the door.
 
Looks like a couple of late model I/M ee lathes have squeezed out of Hanfords back door and now on ebay.
Do they glow in the dark ? :)

My American Tool guy told me they buried two newish Eagles that were so hot the operators had to wear lead suits. Slowed them down a lot, that stuff's heavy !

Did they make the depleted uranium stuff up there ?
 
Do they glow in the dark ?

My American Tool guy told me they buried two newish Eagles that were so hot the operators had to wear lead suits. Slowed them down a lot, that stuff's heavy !

...
 
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In 2003 when I joined here a well meaning person posted a drive change by year chart that was wrong in that the change was 1983. Back then there was very little known about the module drive, and pretty much nothing on the solid state.
Going by that info, I bought the 1983 machine I still use, thinking "I dont have to deal with the dreaded tubes"! Well the machine came and there were the tubes. I felt very sick just spending over 10k and ending up with tubes. It turned out to be a good thing, as the 84 and up regenerative drive requires balanced 3 phase power, Monarch stopped supporting the drive years ago.
So, of the two machines listed above at the bargain price of $17500 the 83 would be the better choice, as the 84 most likely needs a complete new drive to be useable.

To tell the difference in the drives, just looking at the machine.

On the right hand electrical compartment door, the module machine, the electrical disconnect switch" big switch on the big door" front right, is located about center on the left edge. Same from 1960 to 1983.

Regenerative drive, the disconnect switch is located along the upper edge of the door.

I'm soooooo glad mine ended up being modular. It is, however, VERY humbling for me to learn how to get it working.

I wonder how low of an offer they would take on one of those two lathes? Not saying they aren't worth it, just wondering.
 
Alright, looks like the Royal Ducks of Zamak got the message, Stay out of my technical threads!
I can understand some pouting about unfairly not having the opportunity to bid on these government owned machines I linked to before this POS listed them on ebay, I cant explain how that could happen, But it did happen 10yrs ago just like this also....

Ok, more of these late model machines are hitting the market, and there is some help there to identify the drive.
 
Hello, This is my first post on this site. I purchased the 1983 model from above. Haven't received it yet, I live in North Carolina. I talked with Monarch before I made an Offer. They said the 83 model had more options to run with my American rotary 20hp converter. And the 83 had the taper attachment. Monarch said that John Deere bought the machine new. Hopefully it will be what I am expecting.
BTW, I enjoy reading all the post on this site.
Thomas
 
You will not need the phase converter, if the machine is wired 220, you can plug it in to a 200 line that will run a cloths dryer.
The machine looks Ok, but got wet at some point.
This is my 83, its not too bad,
BlWgp7L.jpg
 
Its wired for 460 today. Monarch said its a simple to convert to 230 3. Would the lathe run better on 3 phase. He said it could run on single phase also. My shop is wired with separate panel for 3 phase. I run several pieces now.
Your machine looks nice.
 
The drive itself is single phase, the coolant punmp is 3phase. If you have high voltage 3 phase, just run it as is. If you must re wire to lower voltage, it takes several steps, and your lathe should have everything in place to do it.
I have moved around a bit over the years, and have wired the machine back and forth 220-440, and found the machine is more snappy in operation wired at high voltage.
Your machine has all the improvement that were made in the DC tube drive, and its not hard to keep them running, in my experience after going through the machine more then 15yrs ago, it has been remarkably reliable, but I try to keep up on maintaining good operation.
 
Its wired for 460 today. Monarch said its a simple to convert to 230 3. Would the lathe run better on 3 phase. He said it could run on single phase also. My shop is wired with separate panel for 3 phase. I run several pieces now.
Your machine looks nice.
This forum has some of the best knowledgeable members on the electronics, I'm not one of them.
Here is a link to a manual that I have read a couple of times. if its the wrong manual Donnie or others may hook you up with one for your later drive.
I have found the section on
Electronic Component Functions most useful [page 14] also page 11 sequence of operation.
It brakes the functions down by section and the electronics seems less overwhelming to me.
Welcome to PM
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2103/3423.pdf
 
Peter H posted the wiring for the filament transformers, the best thing to have is the correct separate wiring blue prints for the machine serial#, there were changes through the years.
The system can seem overwhelming, my lathe has 88 wires, but, looking at one electrical function at a time, it is not so complicated. Many a time, machines lose the tubes, they go missing, know what I mean?

If everything is in place,
bFWvXtj.jpg

The tube will warm your winkie!
 
Peter H posted the wiring for the filament transformers, the best thing to have is the correct separate wiring blue prints for the machine serial#, there were changes through the years.
The system can seem overwhelming, my lathe has 88 wires, but, looking at one electrical function at a time, it is not so complicated. Many a time, machines lose the tubes, they go missing, know what I mean?

If everything is in place,
bFWvXtj.jpg

The tube will warm your winkie!

Rushclimber may have ordered the schematic while talking to Monarch. Or should .. I don't have my lathe yet but I suppose I should order my schematic from Monarch.
I read Peter H's Thread at an earlier date. Donie, thanks for your experienced guidance.
I have been reading 10ee for a month, Russ and John gave me literature too start.

Rushclimber
The stickeys are a good read. here is the one Peter H posted that Donie spoke of. Some Stickeys have lost their photos. I cuss photobucket
Late Modular 10EE 230/460 C16J Filament Transformer Setup Procedure
 
To get the full info on converting to low voltage, its in both the regular manual, and the electrical blue prints.
Looking at the photo I posted of the tube board, at the top "base of the big tubes" there is a transformer at the base of each with a bunch of wires.
If those tube filament transformers say 220v, they can be wired both high and low voltage. If they say 440v, then a boost transformer might be used, I have not done this, but I think others have.
Monarch used to stock the low voltage transformers, I dont know about now, though some have purchased them from the original manufacturer.
But, As far as I have seen, lathes with the red Monarch plaque have dual voltage filament transformers.
Also, keep in mind how rare these 1980s machines are, they became extremely expensive as the quality and precision was emphasized, as completion was increasing from European makers, its obvious who won that contest!

I understand the drama of getting one of these, I did the same thing, throw a chunk of cash at a machine that scares the crap out any one with some sanity, extremely complicated to the point that commercial industrial electricians do not know where to begin.
A mix of 3phase, single phase AC, and Tube rectified DC. The big transformer puts out over 500volts, and you will defeat the safety devices and fiddle with all that voltage, diodes, and vacuum tubes, just to run the finest lathe in the world, just got to do it.

One more thought, I can take some photos of the wiring needs for low voltage, and simplify what Peter posted, the info was from my machine and prints, but he didnt get all the info and locked the sticky thread.
 








 
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