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Monarch lever collet closer late model photo needed
- Thread starter Bodgit2
- Start date
- Replies 19
- Views 2,635
zac_b
Aluminum
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
Sorry for the limited detail, but if this seems to match overall, I can get a better shot of the relevant section. Off a '68 square dial.
sneebot
Stainless
- Joined
- May 14, 2001
- Location
- Massachusetts
There is a gear with a pin that engages a spanner nut on the end of the spindle-- do you have this piece?
The straight knurled section slides back and forth and when slid toward the chuck there is a key that engages the gear to prevent loosening.
The straight knurled section slides back and forth and when slid toward the chuck there is a key that engages the gear to prevent loosening.
sneebot
Stainless
- Joined
- May 14, 2001
- Location
- Massachusetts
You can certainly purchase from Monarch.
donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
That part is the one that gets lost,. The closers were made by Royal, I was able to grind one to fit " the back of the ee spindle" from another brand lathe I found on ebay.
zac_b
Aluminum
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
It's not a drawing, but the dimensions aren't supercritical and my skills are limited.
Slip fit on spindle tube, about half an inch thick depending on exact drawbar setup, parallel faces, and something like teeth to engage the sliding sleeve's locking pin once you've set correct collet tension. Gear teeth are balanced and were easy to make at scale originally, but not specifically necessary if you're diy'ing.
Slip fit on spindle tube, about half an inch thick depending on exact drawbar setup, parallel faces, and something like teeth to engage the sliding sleeve's locking pin once you've set correct collet tension. Gear teeth are balanced and were easy to make at scale originally, but not specifically necessary if you're diy'ing.
It's not a drawing, but the dimensions aren't supercritical and my skills are limited.
Slip fit on spindle tube, about half an inch thick depending on exact drawbar setup, parallel faces, and something like teeth to engage the sliding sleeve's locking pin once you've set correct collet tension. Gear teeth are balanced and were easy to make at scale originally, but not specifically necessary if you're diy'ing.
That’s awesome. Thanks so much for your help. Will make one and post. A photo for others.
Steve
zac_b
Aluminum
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
Check the relevant dimensions on your setup, but hope that gets you in the ballpark.
Only other note is that the outboard (flat) side should be relatively hard, as the cam side of the closer "fingers" puts a lot of point pressure on it (see pic).
Only other note is that the outboard (flat) side should be relatively hard, as the cam side of the closer "fingers" puts a lot of point pressure on it (see pic).
Ray Behner
Diamond
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2009
- Location
- Brunswick Oh USA
You'd better check on heat treating that gear. It's probably powered metal and may take a different process.
bsg
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Location
- Imlay City, Michigan
bsg
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Location
- Imlay City, Michigan
Thanks Steve!
Here's the link for anyone looking?
McMaster-Carr
I have a closer missing the gear as well...…
Kevin
metal4130
Aluminum
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2013
- Location
- New Berlin, WI
Steve, can you post a drawing showing what you ended up machining to?
