Motor musings, WiaD motor
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Default Motor musings, WiaD motor

    Thanks to Bill (Thermite), I have a running WIAD small frame Reliance to replace my motor that the armature shorted on.

    We used the Fastenal shipping service. $245 for Wash DC to Las Vegas. Very reasonable and no damage to the motor.

    The backgear gearbox rear plate is pinned to the motor front bell, and as I suspected, the parts are not interchangeable. The pin holes on the front bell on the new motor did not fit the pins on my gearbox. No worries, I changed the front bell to the one that was on my burned up motor.

    I had contemplated getting a large frame Reliance motor and drilling new mounting holes in my mounting plate if I could not have gotten the proper motor. The splined drive gear could be bored out to fit the keyed shaft on the larger motor, or in my case since I can make gears and can’t make internal splines I would have made a new 32 tooth drive gear and used the hardened drive dogs from my splined assembly. Now knowing the pins are not interchangeable, it could still be done but with the effort to repin the gearbox.

    The gearbox backplate would have to be jigged to the motor front bell in proper alignment and then the non matching pin holes bored and reamed out to the next larger size pin. Certainly doable, but a lot of extra work.

    The state of manufacturing in 1956 at Reliance produced lots of non interchangeable parts. The phenolic brush holder ring from one motor will not fit the other motor. The two brush holder rings had diameters 0.025 inch different, and the respective machined bores in the motors were machined at different diameters to match the brush holder rings.


    The two bolt holes for the rear bearing retainer were not drilled 180 degrees apart on this rear cover.


    I put the new armature in my 10EE and rotated the spindle by hand to turn the commutator. Initially I used 0.008 feed and it cut well, so I thought if 0.008 is good, 0.002 is better. As the picture shows, the portion closer to the windings did not cut so well and there was more issue of the copper creating a burr rather cutting cleanly. Obviously the finer feed isn’t ideal for copper. If there is ever a next time I’ll use 0.008 feed. I used an Xacto knife to remove the burrs and then stoned the armature for final smoothing. The brush seating worked well with 400 grit paper.


    So now after more than two years, I have an ultra smooth running 10EE with Bill's Parker/Eurotherm drive setup, less than .000050 runout with my new spindle bearings. So far I have made delrin plugs to replace the cast iron plugs over the bearings and ELSR actuator rod in the ELSR casting. Completely different level of feel and smoothness over my South Bends.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
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    The instructions for the older MG models states, the commutators can be maintained using commutator dressing stones.
    The commutator and slip ring dressing stones available from Ideal Electric. The can be used after the lathe cutting, or if there is room, a running motor can be dressed.
    Here, dressing the commutator on a 1951 ee exciter that is running in place on the machine. The stone was cut from a larger one and glued to a stick for access.

    Your mis matched castings, and alignment problems, are very familiar to those that work on old motorcycles also.

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