My Almost Finished 30" I/M
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  1. #1
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    Here are some photos of my 30 inch E/M 10EE which is 99% complete. If you all remember this is the lathe that I made from taking the 30" bed off of a older lathe and installing it on my newer E/M machine. While it was apart I had the bed ground and everything scraped. I added the ELSR and left the head stock control as well. The ELSR casting had to be modified to fit the 30" bed. By adding a couple of relays and a selector switch I am able to use either control. I also had to reform the cut away on the 30" bed for clearance on the larger E/M gear box. The only thing remaining is to add the coolant hose. It was last on the list because I do not think I will be using the coolant pump. This project sure was a lot of work. Knowing what I know now I would not have started this. The lathe has the factory solid state control. The control works perfect except every once in while if I turn the speed control down to fast it trips the control and I need to reset it. Any thoughts on what would cause that would be appreciated. My thoughts are to switch it over to a vector drive if I ever have serious control issues.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...e082205001.jpg

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    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...e082205004.jpg

  2. Likes pianoman8t8, MICK 1958 liked this post
  3. #2
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    Oh.........my.........gawd.........


    WOW !

    [img]smile.gif[/img]

  4. #3
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    To beautiful for words. Thats a hell of a machine. Nicely done.

  5. #4
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    VSR too! Adding ELSR & VSR must have been an interesting conversion with the late model DC controller.

    Did you get a Monarch schematic that covered this particular combination, or design the control circuit yourself?

    A lot of work, very nicely done!

    -Dave

  6. #5
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    A really nice looking lathe, you must be proud.

  7. #6
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    Beautiful machine! You should be proud of yourself!

    What year is it? Can you post a picture of the patent plate?

  8. #7
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    Very nice!!, I would consider a late 30"I/M with a ELSR, Taper, etc., to be the EE ultimate. Gary Ripesh here in Dallas has a original? 30" with ELSR. I don't care what D. Thomas says, A nice EE looks better than those cold square Swiss bitches anyday.

  9. #8
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    That's awesome! Spectacular job. Your attention to detail is incredible! Keep up the good work.
    You should look at the spindle speed pot and consider electrical cleaner to clean it.

    Steve

  10. #9
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    Nick:
    Super photos of a superb machine .

    If they were giving out trophies for quality work on fine machines you would have one to set up along side of your 4 jaw .

    Where did you have your bed reground and did they scrape in the carriage and tail stock also?

    Did you do the paint too?

    Again a FINE job.
    Hal

  11. #10
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    The main machine is 1987 and the bed is from a 1967. I had the bed ground and everything scraped including the tail stock and carriage. I fit the bed to the base. It was done by a local company Hadley Machine located in Minneapolis Minnesota. If I remember correctly it was around$2,000.00 for everything. Other then that I did everything including the paint.

  12. #11
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    I don't care what D. Thomas says, A nice EE looks better than those cold square Swiss bitches anyday.
    Do you like your women with really large butts too ? [img]tongue.gif[/img]

    The 10ee is one of the finest lathes ever made, but to me, not quite the masterpiece of function and asthetics present in a Hardinge HLV-H, and the later Schaublins. I've had at least 3 10ee's over the years and would love to have another one at some point though.

  13. #12
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    You know you'll never be able to sell that thing on eBay with it looking like that. But I'm going to be painting the front of my house soon and I'd be glad to donate some good quality house paint so you could spiff it up to make it really attractive to the discerning eBay buyer.

    [img]smile.gif[/img]


    Looks NICE!

    cheers,
    Michael

  14. #13
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    Don, actually I like all sizes, as long ass its firm. Butt, I digress.... Truthfully, your ex-160 is in a honored spot in my tool porn collection.

  15. #14
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    Super nice machine, thanks for posting the photos.

  16. #15
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    Oragrag,

    Truly impressive on the idea and the fine execution.

    I noticed with very much interest that you have a Newall C80 DRO (??) on your EE.

    I wondered if you would be willing to share some details about what model you bought and how the scales are mounted.

    Knowing, of course that the 20" machine will require a shorter bed-scale, but nonetheless this accessory is high on my list.

    PS: Also I've never seen a solid-state drive up close & personal if you were willing to post some photos.

    TIA

    -Matt

  17. #16
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    Ok, now that I ( and many others) have a severe case of inferiority complex looking at that thing , you must make it up by showing us some of the photos of your building process . I would bet that the new ones from Monarch itself would not look that good. Congratulations for a fantastic job.
    Khanh

  18. #17
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    "Also I've never seen a solid-state drive up close & personal if you were willing to post some photos."

    Below is a link to several photos of a "Monarch Sidney" solid-state drive, AKA "regenerative".

    The motor has a tachometer for fully closed-loop control.

    The drive proper is open, and contained on two boards.

    It is a simple (yeah, everything is relative!) three-phase SCR drive.

    Three phases must be supplied because even the control section operates on three-phase. A well-balanced RPC would be a must. Or a Phase Perfect.

    The way the motor is connected to the "power blocks" (integrated SCRs) it is impossible to utilize a series field. Apparently, Monarch elected to use tachometer feedback for load compensation, instead.

    (However, the third-party "Joliet" drive found a way to use both series field and tachometer feedback compensation).

    The "Monarch Sidney" drive, although very complicated in terms of parts count, and quite high-tech in terms of design, contains very few special parts.

    Although, it does contain some which are obsolete, and for which replacements would be difficult to acquire.

    You can view some photos of a "Monarch Sidney" drive Here .

    Following the photos is a spirited discussion of some of the maintenance issues with this drive, including the drive's major (semiconductor) parts list.

  19. #18
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    Here are a few more photos. I shot some of the drive and of the DRO. The solid state drive I am refering to on my machine is Monarchs regenerative drive. If I were to replace it I would go with an AC Vector setup. It looks to me that it is the same as the one in Peters photos. Did or does Monarch make any other solid state DC drives for the 10EE. The Newall DRO'S are very easy to install. They can be ordered with mounting kits that are very universal yet compact. The hardest part was to make a scale cover for the X axis. I also had to make a mount for the reader on the Y axis. I was able to bolt the reader for the x axis directly to the cross slide sadle. The Newall was originally purchased for a small mill but I sold the mill and neverinstalled it. As it turned out one of the scales fit the X axis and I only needed to get a new scale for the Y axis. I was going to put a 3rd scale on the compound but I could not come up with a way that would look nice and clean. Plus I did not ever think I would use it much. The 5 extra relays in lower right corner of the 2nd to last photo are to enable the 10EE to be run from the head stock switch or the ELSR and to shut the lathe down if the control selector switch is mistakingly switched during operation.

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  20. #19
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    Awesome. How much time and money to you have invested at this point?

  21. #20
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    Looks like your taper attachment has drain holes in each slide bearing housing, indicated below:




    Are these original, or were these added?

    My TA has no such holes, and I'm sure the destruction of the four bearings, and the extreme pitting of the slide were caused by retention of coolant, and I desire to modify my TA to incorporate these holes.

    Can you state the diameter of the holes, and the displacement from the slide bearing axes?


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