Need machining help- Monarch 16CY
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  1. #1
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    Cool Need machining help- Monarch 16CY

    All,

    I own a Monarch 16CY 1943 and the tail stock hand wheel is broken in three pieces. I have purchased a new hand wheel from McMaster to machine to fit.

    I live in Lexington KY and my go to shop has closed. Not very many folks interested in small project work from a hobbyist. Anyone interested in this type of work for a reasonable cost? Anyone know of a machinist local to Lexington KY?

    The picture shows my original hand wheel and the new wheel from McMaster. The hub will need to be shortened, turned down to original size, bored, steel sleeve pressed in, and key broached.

    I need a lathe to fix my lathe. My lathe is not up and running

    monarch-handwheel.jpg

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    You could JB Weld your handle together to get you through the repairing stage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bll230 View Post
    You could JB Weld your handle together to get you through the repairing stage.
    That's what I'd do. If you really want it machined I could do it but you'd have to pay shipping to NM and back.

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    I'd wait until everything else on the machine is working then chuck up the new handwheel and trim down the hub (don't need the TS for that). Then when you go to drill & ream the center bore, put the old handwheel back on and us it to bore your center hole. Grab it with visegrips if you need to, it's only one hole. Drill the handle hole with a drill press. Take the $$ you save on machining it and buy a press and broach for the keyway.

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    Why a steel sleeve ? No need for such ,bore hole to size and broach keyway. Done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnEvans View Post
    Why a steel sleeve ? No need for such ,bore hole to size and broach keyway. Done.
    As said, finish the parts of the lathe as actually MATTER, first. Many things as can twist the stub on the TS.

    As said, make the hole on the lathe.

    Now.. the keyway? LEAVE the just-bored handhweel as-gripped.

    Power OFF, spindle locked, make and mount a small boring-bar, turn a HSS tool to the appropriate orientation, and stroke or drag the keyway by hand, cranking the carriage handwheel, as if the lathe were a muscle-powered slotter.

    Not hard. Just tedious.

    You only ever need to do it but the ONE TIME for this handwheel.

    But need to know how to do it for MANY things in future.

    Example: An otherwise undamaged spline of significant value gets a few spatters of stray weld onto its precision surfaces.

    Guess what technique can clean them up without damage as would make the problem worse?

    Got it in one, by now? Practice the technique.

    BTDGTTS, and many times, not just the one, internal keyways and external splines alike.

    Yes, we had mills. No, it wasn't so slow as to even justify movement to, and set up of them.

    Some other Pilgrim can tell you how to double and triple up hacksaw blades, same frame, use a guide to saw the keyway... straight (you hope..), then finish with files.

    The lathe-as-slotter is easier to get right, harder to FUBAR.

    Lazy Iyam about pissing-away money and doing stuff twice.

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    If you really just don’t want to do it, I guess you can just send it to me. It’s not a very hard job, just pay for the shipping to and from 28571.

    But if I do it, since there’s absolutely no need, I wouldn’t steel sleeve it. Just bore it and broach a keyway for you.

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    Naro

    I you don't mind doing it, I'll send it your way.

    I have no problem doing this, just don't have the lathe up and running. I have a lathe at work but I just hate doing government work since I'm one of the company principles.

    I'm going through each component, completing and setting on the shelf for reassembly. I hate having five projects going at one time so I am forcing myself to complete one at a time before ripping into another part. this is the last part for the tailstock. I'm getting into the taper attachment and haveit almost done as well.

    Thanks so much for offering,
    Let me know how to proceed. And if there is something you are currently looking for, give me a list and I may have it in my inventory of parts.

    William

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnEvans View Post
    Why a steel sleeve ? No need for such ,bore hole to size and broach keyway. Done.
    You are right. There is not a steel sleeve on mine. There is a groove on the end of the hub that looked like a sleeve. Cast hub should handle a key.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bll230 View Post
    You could JB Weld your handle together to get you through the repairing stage.
    Not a JB weld kind of guy. I'm rebuilding for the fun and to make it as well or better than from the factory.

    Thanks for the advise but already decided, no JB weld, bubble gum or bailing wire on this project. I save that for my lawn mower and rototiller repair... Ha!

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    Hey William: did you find someone to machine the hub of your new handle?

    I think bil230 was suggesting a temporary JbWeld job, so you could do your own machining on the new handle?
    Not that you need the tailstock for doing the work on the handle..

    I used the technique suggested by 'Thermite' to 'broach' a keyway inside a bore. It worked well, was a bit tedious, but worked.

    DualValve

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    William I sent you a DM

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    Hey William: did you find someone to machine the hub of your new handle?

    I think bil230 was suggesting a temporary JbWeld job, so you could do your own machining on the new handle?
    Not that you need the tailstock for doing the work on the handle..

    I used the technique suggested by 'Thermite' to 'broach' a keyway inside a bore. It worked well, was a bit tedious, but worked.

    DualValve
    Took it to work and did it myself. Not the best option but had a great time doing it... I will post on "My winter project"

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    Thanks Naro. I took it to work and finished. Turned out well.


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