Need new dial for 10EE tach

rimcanyon · May 20, 2021

The 49 10EE I am working on needs a new tach dial. What are the best options? Are there any speedo/tach repair companies (like Palo Alto Spedometer) that sell parts, or any sources for custom tach dials?

labeeman · May 21, 2021

Which tach do you have 2.5 k or the 4 k.

rimcanyon · May 21, 2021

4k. It is the earlier style, also used in Round Dial machines.

daryl bane · May 21, 2021

I had mine rebuilt by Nisonger, they were able to restore my dial face, as some numbers were flaking off. The only option other than that(at the time) was to silkscreen a new face. Not cheap. But that was before all the new computer printing image tools they have out now, so it may not be a big deal anymore. On a side note, I talked to the tech doing the work, and he commented that these Stewart-Warner tachs were just about bullet-proof, simple and rugged.

rimcanyon · May 21, 2021

I have an inquiry in to Palo Alto Speedometer, but they are not cheap. I think I paid $500 for them to rebuild the tach for my 64 356. Here is a picture of the dial:

labeeman · May 21, 2021

This is what I have.

lectrician1 · May 21, 2021

you could print a picture of a good dial. Size is correctly, Then glue it on the face. I did it for a machine I
was working on. It came out pretty good. someone on here has the file of a good image. The one i used only went to 2500 rpm though

lectrician1 · May 21, 2021

printer dial face

for this tach I printed a new face on photo paper and glued it on.
also painted the hand
and I had to make a new magnetic flywheel because the tach had lost its magnetism.

There was really no other option for me. No one would rebuild it because of the lost magnetism.
And I couldn't find anyone with a replacement for sale.

rimcanyon · May 21, 2021

lectrician1 said:
View attachment 321538

for this tach I printed a new face on photo paper and glued it on.
also painted the hand
and I had to make a new magnetic flywheel because the tach had lost its magnetism.

There was really no other option for me. No one would rebuild it because of the lost magnetism.
And I couldn't find anyone with a replacement for sale.

Thats a great solution. Nice work also. How did you get the magnetic field correct, so that the tach was within range of adjustment?

lectrician1 · May 21, 2021

after about 20 hours of trying different solutions such as using epoxy to glue neodymium magnets to the original flywheel, I just made a new flywheel out of brass. i didn't know how many magnets it would take so I milled all those holes. Turns out it only needed a two magnets. the speedo has a way calibrate. anyway after many hours I got it calibrated exactly using a hand held tach to test.

rimcanyon · May 23, 2021

Bill, nice offer. labeeman already is sending an original Monarch 4000k unit, so I am good to go, but I would like to get the other one running. Spare parts are always useful. I found a student in the design program at the local state college who will generate vector art for the tach dial, so I can print either a label or a decal. However, I have a second problem with this tach: the balance staff pivot is broken. Do you think the vintage of your SW marine tachs is similar to the one in the 49 10EE? I would be willing to buy one for repair parts, or even better, maybe I can put a new dial on it to make it look Monarch. PM sent.

thermite said:
I have several mechanical-drive S-W "Marine/Diesel" tachos with 4,000 RPM max scale that were acquired as shelf-stale "NOS" still in their windowed display boxes for small money.

Around fifty bucks, on-average?

Cleaner and less gaudy than this one, and without the odometer:

Stewart-Warner Corporation Mechanical Tachometer with Fixed Mount PN: 82683 | eBay

They do have a wider needle and bolder, but simpler markings, may or may not have the same resolution.

Donor "guts" complete should be easier to re-case and re-dial (if need be) than creating new/altered works practically from scratch?

Dial alone just isn't that hard. One can create the "master" image as black on clear, then contact-print onto 5 X 7 mylar stock, friendly commercial printer or darkroom "bag" develop.

The resulting "negative" gives you a directly usable mylar dial, clear on black field. White stock or color film behind it - even opal Lucite, edge-lighted - and soon done. printed bass-ackwards the mylar stock faces the cruel world and protects the emulsion on the away side.

Waaay nicer than trying to directly 'puter-print the solid black.

rimcanyon · May 24, 2021

thermite said:
Responded to your email.

If you still NEED a staff? Just turn one from scratch of modify a stock clock part, AND/OR/ELSE make a Brass or Bronze pivot bearing seat for it as a tall clock maker would do .. or adapt a stock jewel. All of that was mere "parts bin" stuff back in the heyday of mechanical Horology in high volume.

Never worked with anything that small. The pivot at the end of the balance staff is about .015” diameter. The staff itself is about 1” long and about 1/16” diameter, and the top ¼” is reduced in diameter to fit the needle. And it is hardened and polished, and the spring is held on with some kind of compression nut pressed in place. All doable if you have sharp tools, good eyesight and the patience of Job. I think I would rather find someone to make it.

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