Need photo of 1942 round dial 10EE tachometer, and fishing in the headstock

focusrsh · Aug 6, 2019

My EE10's tach is missing the needle and glass and the dial is totally ruined. I'm going to rebuild it. Can someone please take a high-ish resolution photo of a correct dial? You can contact me via the email option or private message option on this website and we can arrange to send to me offline via email.

Speaking of the tach...Cal had a thread about the difficulties of reinstalling the two nuts that hold the tach on the headstock. Apparently, whoever had my lathe had a similar problem. While draining and cleaning the headstock, I found no less than six of those nuts in the bottom, along with three lock washers and the setscrew that had fallen out of one of the reverse gears.

I also spend at least a half hour with a magnet, dragging it around the bottom, picking up metal grit and slag, until it eventually came up clean.

Cal Haines · Aug 7, 2019

There were three different tachs, from 2500 to 4000 RPM, depending on how the belt ratios were set up. Which one do you have?

By the way, the model is called a "10EE", not an "EE10". If you search for "EE10", you're going to miss things. Similarly, a future information miner won't be able to find threads that you post if the titles are wrong. I've been correcting your titles as I find them

Cal

focusrsh · Aug 9, 2019

How do I tell? Here is a photo of the left side and the drive belt.

OK, 10EE is it.

Cal Haines · Aug 10, 2019

Is there enough of the original dial left to see what the top number was? If you post a photo I might be able to tell.

I'll measure the drive and spindle pulley diameters for you when I work on the collet closer.

Cal

focusrsh · Aug 11, 2019

The spindle pulley is 7.2" OD and the pulley on the motor is6.9" OD.
Here is a photo of what is left of the dial. I can just make out where 1000 RPM is marked.

Cal Haines · Aug 12, 2019

focusrsh said:
The spindle pulley is 7.2" OD and the pulley on the motor is6.9" OD.
Here is a photo of what is left of the dial. I can just make out where 1000 RPM is marked.

View attachment 262923

Here's a photo of a 2500 RPM tach dial from gears77's EE16315:

I sent you a high resolution copy of the photo.

There is no field loss circuit on a motor/generator 10EE and no need for one. About the only way to loose field is for the exciter to fail, which causes the generator powering the armature to also loose it's field and stop generating voltage for the armature. Since the DC control panel is also powered by the exciter, the forward or reverse contactor will open and the dynamic brake resistors will switch in.

Cal

focusrsh · Aug 12, 2019

The tach, other than the dial, appears to be in good condition. Since one of my hobbies is working on antique clocks, I have all the tools to disassemble, clean, oil and reassemble. I'll get a hand from one of my clock suppliers. I'll clean the dial face down to bare metal and print a high-resolution copy.

My plan is to add a DRO and digital tach to a separate panel. But I thought it would be fun to make the old one work and look nice.

focusrsh · Aug 12, 2019

Cal-
I received the photo of the dial. Lovely, thanks.
- Carl

rons · Aug 13, 2019

thermite said:
You are off to a good start, then.

"Reluctant" clockie, here! Ten years, I had two good watchmakers on staff. Keeping a clock repairman was harder. Ended up with more tools than enough and just as happy to NOT have to use them. "Saturation" thing, supporting an 18-store retail chain.

I'm torn.

The dial doesn't face the operator position.

IF I even rebuild that particular 10EE at all, (it has the worst wear of my two) the temptation is to mount an electronic-analog tacho in a curved housing that DOES point it at the operator position for easier line-of-sight. Plenty of those housings (and tachos) in the auto aftermarket, no need to fab one.

My power & speed controls (Parker-SSD DC Drive) are also "in hand", operator position, not over by the rear covers, HS end.

DRO should be digital. Tacho seems best "natural analog" or "simulated analog". ISTR the Jaguar speedo and tach are BOTH actually driven by tiny stepper motors off one of the computer's digital signals. That part is fine.

But so is the simulated-analog temperature display. And THAT disloyal b***h is programmed to LIE!

Veglia-Borletti "real" gauges allegedly salvaged from a Jensen Interceptor or such are on hand.

But so is procrastination.

So far the procrastination has been kicking ass. Go figure.

Another example of a communication channel interrupted by white noise. Must have their squelch control adjusted just right.

Looks like they totally ignored you.

LOL

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Need photo of 1942 round dial 10EE tachometer, and fishing in the headstock

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