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New Machine Day

Nice! What year is the Dodge? My Dad ordered one brand new in 1963 through the local small-town Dodge dealer. I was 4 years old, and I have just haziest recollection of picking it up from the dealer. It turned out to be an absolute lemon. It must have been built on a Friday just before quittin' time or a Monday with a hangover, from reject parts pulled off some back shelf.
 
Yours is nearly the age of mine.
You may have an inline exciter with 230 Volt output.
Yours looks much better than mine!

Bill

Hey Bill,

There is also a rebuild tag on it. Image attached.

I have known about these 10EE's for a long time but not in detail. I have a lot to learn
about what makes them tick but truth be told I am very excited to start learning. I will
post more pics and have some more questions for sure!

As I dig into it I will be curious to find out if any of the electrical system was changed
in '62 when the rebuild was performed.

The lathe has not been used in five years and the condition is yet to be determined. I was
told it was wired for 440V.

- Where can I find the most comprehensive owners manual?

IMG_20200207_193552.jpg
 
Nice! What year is the Dodge? My Dad ordered one brand new in 1963 through the local small-town Dodge dealer. I was 4 years old, and I have just haziest recollection of picking it up from the dealer. It turned out to be an absolute lemon. It must have been built on a Friday just before quittin' time or a Monday with a hangover, from reject parts pulled off some back shelf.

The PW is a '49. I am the second owner and my grandfather bought it new from the dealer. I feel very blessed to have it.
Love that truck!
 
Hi mjf46. Congratulations on the nice lathe purchase. And for having a very nice Power Wagon.

Take the front cover off, the end covers, take well illuminated photos of the exposed internals.

IF the lathe still has it's original Motor Generator DC drive, then Monarch can sell you an owners manual with what the lathe was originally shipped with. Should have the original wiring schematic as well.

However, it the 1962 rebuild included a change in the system powering the lathe, then all bets are off: we won't know and you won't know until we all see some photos.

There is a ton of information to be found in the 'Stickies' in the begining of this forum.
Cal Haines, the forum moderator has done an admirable job of posting many check lists and how-to's to help learning about and working on your 10ee.

One thing to be sure about: the spindle bearings in a 10ee are frighteningly expensive, IF any of them can even be found to purchase! So the very first thing to do is to look in the five sight-glasses for lubrication levels.
The correct lubricants are
For the front and rear spindle bearings: Mobil DTE LIGHT, 'CIRCULATING OIL' NOT DTE hydraulic oil !!
For the headstock gears [center site-glass] and threading gear box: Mobile DTE Heavy-Medium, 'Circulating Oil', NOT hydraulic oil
For the Apron and it's pump that lubricates the ways for the carriage,cross-slide and tailstock: Mobil Vactra #2, way-oil.

It is highly recommended to remove the saddle from the apron, remove the apron, clean out the open-top worm gear housing, it is normally full of swarf, metal chips and congealed and hardened oil.. This worm drives a brass gear that costs over $700, so it's a good idea to remove the metal-chip grinding compound.
With the apron off, remove the bottom sump for the oil supply, and remove the oil pump, clean or replace the inlet filter, and manually pump the pump lever with the pump submerged in oil, and verify that the pump is actually pumping, often the pump is in very good condition, but the two check valves often are stuck. Cleaning in solvents usually get them operating again.

Then clean out the saddle oil lines and metering units so that the pump can get the Vactra to the ways. Many people just replace the metering units. They can be purchased for under $20 each.

There are MANY posts on this process. Just do a search for 'apron oil pump'. on the forum, you will have many hours of reading.

Below are images of the MG unit's wiring connection box, the main contactor, and the back side of the apron when removed from my 11-1941 produced 10ee.

DualValve

220vWiringConnection.jpgLMMainRelay.jpgNastyApron.jpg
 
It is always nice to see a unmolested original no matter what it is. I know it can be a tough call, but I hope you can/want to keep it that way...cleaned up and restored that is.
 
Interesting machine has the rare distance dial on the carriage handwheel. I would contact Monarch and request the manual for your serial numbered machine, but also ask for any info they have on file, they sometimes forget that.
 
Please remove the cover on the right-end of the base, under the tailstock. Inside will be the end of the MG unit, and here you will find either an inline exciter or a piggy-back belt-driven exciter. Please post a couple of photos of the MG unit.

Just a few more images and we'll know what there is to know about your machine.

What you have shown is quite remarkable: it is virtually unmolested. Everything looks old and original.
Be very careful when working with the old wires, the cloth coverings are fragile, and depending on the history and environment of the lathe, the insulation can be very fragile.

DualValve
 
It was originally an inline exciter though there seems to be something (exciter?) missing from the left end of the MG unit.

I am also curious about the "Rebuilt by" badge as Sentinel (Shrewsbury) Ltd is an old steam locomotive company
out of the UK.

The AC motor is wired for 440v and there is an add-on electrical enclosure with a buck transformer to run the machine form 220v

R end.jpg

Exciter1.jpg

IMG_20200207_193552.jpg

IMG_20200209_074031.jpg
 

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Please post an in focus picture of the nameplate in the first picture.
Then a photo of the brush area of the MG unit with the cover held with 1 screw removed.

I do not see the inline exciter in any of the pictures!

Bill

Couple more pics requested be @Bill

Motor nameplate says "50Hz" - does this lend credibility to my theory the machine was originally bound for the UK?

AC motor.jpg

motor2.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure that is an inline MG unit. It is however, the first photos I've seen of one.
It definitely is not a piggy-back exciter MG.

There are a few PM members who have original inline MG lathes. Hopefully someone will post some of their photos for comparison.

Can you post a close up image of the label on the small transformer?
What is done occasionally is to replace the exciter with a transformer and rectifier to reduce line AC voltage to 115-120vac, then rectify it to 115-120vDC The 115vDC is used to operate the relays and controls and to power the fields in the big DC spindle drive motor.
This small transformer and ?? in the box might be there for this purpose.



DualValve

DualValve
 
"Motor nameplate says "50Hz" - does this lend credibility to my theory the machine was originally bound for the UK?"
Yes, the 420 VAC input will work well with their 416 Volt system too.

The AC motor is wired for 440v and there is an add-on electrical enclosure with a buck transformer to run the machine form 220v
View attachment 278141

The transformer in this picture is what replaces the inline exciter.
A good in focus picture of the transformer nameplate will determine if you have a 115 Volt or 230 Volt system.
Many inline exciters were 230 Volt units.

Bill
 
"Motor nameplate says "50Hz" - does this lend credibility to my theory the machine was originally bound for the UK?"
Yes, the 420 VAC input will work well with their 416 Volt system too.



The transformer in this picture is what replaces the inline exciter.
A good in focus picture of the transformer nameplate will determine if you have a 115 Volt or 230 Volt system.
Many inline exciters were 230 Volt units.

Bill


Here is a picture of the single phase transformer. The primary is wired for 440v and the secondary is 115v.

My MG motor data plate shows 420V 3 phase and does not appear to be a dual voltage motor.

Is it fair to say my options are:
1) Rewire the MG for 220v (not sure this is feasible)
2) Replace the MG with a 220v unit
3) Use a 3 phase boost transformer
4) Convince the power company to run 440v to my garage
5) Buy a new house with 60' x 80' shop that already has 440v power? ..landing strip for a small plane would be nice too.




xformer.jpg

xformer2.jpg

MG unit.jpg
 








 
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