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    Default New to me 10-EE

    Well, I finally had one of those moments where I was at the right place at the right time. We had a monarch 10-EE at work that was in a building they are getting ready to demo. The serial number places it in production in 1968. I was able to get the lathe, looks like a set of gears for I assume metric operation, collet set, three and four jaw chucks, the cabinet and carosel that holds the collets, and it comes with a dorian bxa toolpost. I am almost embarrassed to say what I am paying, but well below what the lathe alone is worth. This lathe has been sitting in a maintenance shop for it's entire life and probably has been used about once every other month for the last 40yrs. Quiet as can be and runs like new. Comes with some extra relays and a couple extra set of tubes.

    I don't have the power to run it in my shop right now as the current phase converter I have is 230V and this machine is 460V (unless it is a multi voltage motor????. I can build or buy a phase converter to run it, but I am not sure I am going to keep it just yet. What I really need is a new manual mill so was giving thought to trying to trade it for one. Anyway, here are some pics and I can't wait to get it home and play with it a little. I ran it today a bit just to get used to it as it is still wired up. Super nice machine.











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    Let me be the first to congratulate you and let you know we now all hate you!

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    Quote Originally Posted by praff View Post
    I don't have the power to run it in my shop right now as the current phase converter I have is 230V and this machine is 460V (unless it is a multi voltage motor????. I can build or buy a phase converter to run it, but I am not sure I am going to keep it just yet. What I really need is a new manual mill so was giving thought to trying to trade it for one. Anyway, here are some pics and I can't wait to get it home and play with it a little. I ran it today a bit just to get used to it as it is still wired up. Super nice machine.
    You mention "tubes", so it should have the OEM "Modular" drive. Motor is DC.

    It will be transformer taps on the drive FOR it as need changed from 460 V to 230 V. How-to has been covered "right here on PM". More than one thread.

    Best news is that if your phase converter is happy with its Doctor it can keep its Doctor, etc.

    Modular Drive 10EE run off SINGLE PHASE, do not need 3-Phase or your converter at all.


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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    You mention "tubes", so it should have the OEM "Modular" drive. Motor is DC.

    It will be transformer taps on the drive FOR it as need changed from 460 V to 230 V. How-to has been covered "right here on PM". More than one thread.

    Best news is that if your phase converter is happy with its Doctor it can keep its Doctor, etc.

    Modular Drive 10EE run off SINGLE PHASE, do not need 3-Phase or your converter at all.

    Holy cow...I had no idea. I just assumed it was 3 phase

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    Quote Originally Posted by praff View Post
    Holy cow...I had no idea. I just assumed it was 3 phase
    Do the reconfiguration to 230 V from 460 V proper-like, and ISTR all you then need to serve its needs is an ignorant 240 VAC single-phase drop, 30A rated wire & breaker. I like Hubbell Twist-Lok, and a good grade of bright-yellow-jacketed SO cord, but it isn't much more complicated than that. Air-Con outlets & pigtails can serve.

    NB: Coolant pump.... IF that is 3-P or even any sort of hassle, just source a single-phase one. The juice being pumped doesn't actually know or care which tribe of motor is allegedly "smoother".

    Paint - but not-only - being in such overall good condition, it may have been used for work that never even ran flood coolant.

    Yah done good! Sacrifice a goat or sumthin'

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    You dont need a phase converter at all, the machine will run on 220v single phase, the only 3 phase motoer would be the coolant pump, and it looks like you dont have one.
    Take a look at the two filament transformers #T6 and T7, each located on the board near the base of the big tubes. If those are marked 200v, conversion to low voltage is easier.
    Nice machine, late style, circulating oil in headstock, heavy tailstock...awful paint.

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    You just won the lottery, a fully loaded 10ee. It can't get get better than that. I'm not sure what lathe you have now, very good chance the 10ee is a better lathe.

    Hal

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    Quote Originally Posted by 220swift View Post
    You just won the lottery, a fully loaded 10ee. It can't get get better than that. I'm not sure what lathe you have now, very good chance the 10ee is a better lathe.

    Hal
    Last fall I bought a used bridgeport/romi 13x40 in super nice shape. So now, I am not quite sure what to do. The romi is every bit as nice a machine that i need and will be riliable for the rest of my life with the work i do. However, the monarch is probably a nicer lathe but maybe not as reliable from a drive standpoint. I really dont need both. Chambering and threading a rifle barrel (which i dont do now, but would like to in the future will be next to impossible on the monarch.

    So....I may end up selling the monarch. If I keep it, it would be just to keep Because it is a nice machine. What I really need right now is a new manual mill. So the monarch may get sold or traded towards a mill. My poor lagun has seen better days.

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    The Monarch is a better lathe, but the 40” bed on the BP will be extremely useful, I had a lathe with similar size to your Monarch and you can run out bed pretty quick drilling things too big to fit in the spindle or chuck bore


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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    I chamber through the headstock on my ee. I just like using it.

    Hal

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    I am probably going to regret this at some point in my life....but I just listed this for sale in the machinery section if anyone is interested. It just isn't suited for the things I need to do in my shop and I can't justify keeping two nice lathes when I need a new mill.

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