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New to me 10EE

vettebob

Cast Iron
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Location
Blue Springs MO
I bought a Round dial 10 EE last month. For a thousand dollars and 600 miles each way to pick it up it was partially disassembled.016.jpg017.jpg019.jpg Now I'm going through it figuring out what I need to do to turn it back into a good usable lathe.
 
During my investigation of this lathe I've discovered it has the elsr electronic lead screw revering with 2 sets of rheostats. One set the reversing set is burned up, the motor generator is one of the very rare 2 phase models. The ways saddle and tailstock all are worn. The spindle is different from the drawings monarch sent. It has 2Timkin tapered roller bearings one in the front and one in the back. The machine was a former Westinghouse Lathe built in 1944. The guy I purchased it from said he was told it was used to turn commutators. I think I just accidentaly discovered why it was sold. The spindle bearings were a bit loose so I started taking the headstock cover off and looked inside. I spun the spindle shaft and saw the tach did not work. Upon further investigation I found the phenolic gear that that drives both the tach and the gear for threading had slipped out of place because the set screw which holds the oil slinger separating the front bearing cavity from the main headstock cavity had come loose and fell out. I actually retrieved the set screw it's not mangled. If any one is interested in this variation of headstock I'll take pictures of it all. More to come
 
Sounds like a challenge to bring it back.
There is the old joke - an engineer is someone that will pay extra to get somthing in kit form;)

I think I have a few phenolic tach gears (no idea if they are different between round and square dial), plus one tach tat looks to be a complete mess. Tach is yours free (you pay shipping) I,ll throw in a phenolic gear as well if you need one. Shoot me a message and I'll take a pic of the tach - it's not pretty, not sure if it is worth your time.

Good luck
Paul
 
... One set the reversing set is burned up, the motor generator is one of the very rare 2 phase models. The ways saddle and tailstock all are worn. The spindle is different from the drawings monarch sent. It has 2Timkin tapered roller bearings one in the front and one in the back. The machine was a former Westinghouse Lathe built in 1944. The guy I purchased it from said he was told it was used to turn commutators. I think I just accidentaly discovered why it was sold. The spindle bearings were a bit loose so I started taking the headstock cover off and looked inside. ...

Very interesting! This is the first Timken bearing machine that I think we've seen. (Although this one has been here before, owned by ditto_95). I'll e-mail you a drawing with the Timken bearings.

I'm guessing that the bearing pre-load was set by using shims.

What drawings did Monarch send you?

Cal
 
The preload of the spindle is actually set by a spanner nut just behind the spindle lock. The bearings were loose I easily tightened them up by adjusting the spanner nut. Then I took the spindle out to figure out my Tach / Threading issue. The dog gear on my large gear to my 6 to 1 gearbox is completely worn out. I will have to repair it. I'll preheat it to 350 -400 then tig weld it with a er120s rod then reheat to 500 and slowly cool it before machining. Hopefully it should give it a shock and wear resistant surface. I finally got a replacement battery for my camera so I can start taking pics.
 
I took 2 tachometers and made one functional one out of them here's a pic.002.jpgDSCF2077.jpg Thanks for the donor tach Paul. working on the taper attachment now.
 
006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg009.jpg010.jpgRepaired my 6 to 1 output gear today I used a ER100s alloy rod for good hard teeth when I welded it. My welding isn't to good I'm still learning how to use my tig welder. The dogs came out well they dulled a new m42 cobalt end mill in 30 seconds. I machined the other teeth with carbide end mill. Here's some pics. Bob
 
I have been going thru and cleaning and repairing 10 EE parts here are some updates. BobDSC00179.jpgDSC00181.jpgDSC00206_edited-1.jpgDSC00208_edited-1.jpg The threading gears in my headstock were severely worn so I had turn the shafts down on both gears and then sleeve the cast iron bushings.
 
I took my accumulating feed dial apart and cleaned it. I had to make a new brass disc so the dial lock would work the old one was worn. Here are some pics. BobDSC00210.jpgDSC00211.jpgDSC00212.jpgDSC00213.jpgDSC00214.jpg
 
Ben a while since I've posted pictures so here's some updates. I made some new steady rest screws and knobs and a new crossfeed leadscrew Bob002.jpgDSC00215.jpgDSC00216.jpgDSC00218.jpg
 
Should this truly be a two-phase machine, you have two choices:

1) the conventional option would be to use a Scott-T three-phase to two-phase transformer, and to operate it from three phase, and

2) the unconventional option would be to convert it to single-phase, using the two-phase motor as a capacitor start/capacitor run motor.

The general approach which Steelman's method (detailed for the 10EE case by me some years back, and some recent posts by others) would work, although the capacitor values would, of course, be different.

The Steelman method of three-phase to single-phase conversion uses the starting winding at 0 degrees and the two running windings at 120 and 240 degrees, which simulates the starting winding at 0 degrees and the two running windings at an "effective" 90 degrees. The two windings are not identical in impedance, but that is OK, and has been proven in thousands of oilfield and agricultural irrigation installations.

The method which I am suggesting for your two-phase machine would use one of the windings at 0 degrees and the other at a "true" 90 degrees, thereby providing essentially the same functionality as the Steelman method. This would, of course, eliminate the need for three-phase power and also for the Scott-T transformer.
 
Peter I have since abandoned the DC drive. The motor windings were severely corroded with whatever the previous owner cleaned them with. I am going the vfd route with a 3 phase ac motor retaining the 6 to 1 gearbox. If I find the need I can always make a 2 speed gearbox. Bob
 
Bob,

Nice looking paint job! You may give DaveE907 some competition. I went with the same medium gray that you used, but I now wish that I had painted mine a darker grey, closer to the original color.

BTW, I'm always looking for casting numbers on things. Please note any that you come across. They're usually EE followed by four digits.

Are you noticing if the serial number is stamped on a machined edge of the covers? Have you looked for a serial number on the bottom of your rests or the backs of your chucks and faceplates? If the serial number on the tooling matches the machine it's original.

Cal
 
Cal that's just the first coat of primer I still have to spot putty then reprime and sand again before paint. IT is going to be metallic graphite gray. I was just thinking about sending you some casting numbers. My headstock with the tapered roller bearings has SPL on the oilshield under the cast iron cover. I think it's an abbreviation for the special headstock. Tapered roller bearings and ELSR. Several parts have matching numbers. I couldn't find serial numbers on the 6 or 8" chucks but they are the right manufacture to be original. Bob
 
Polyvee belt on 10EE

As soon as my CK is completed, Turcite is curing tonight on saddle, I will be converting my 10EE to a plolyvee belt drive to lower the top speed and increase the torque.
 
I got my lathe bed back from the grinders. They took .014 off inside Headstock (carriage) V .004 off outside Headstock (Carriage) V .006 off both flats and didn't specify how much off the tailstock v. Bob
 
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