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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    back to our regularly scheduled programing

    so ON TOPIC testing and working on the spindle motor. Tuned up the comm while hooked up with Cal's suggested test circuit with out the DC control panel.

    Found out the rear spindle motor bearing heated up quite a lot in short order so I took it apart.

    Some pixs....

    Attachment 242002
    Attachment 242003
    Attachment 242004
    Attachment 242005
    Attachment 242006
    Nice shots.

    Presuming YOU have not (yet) been at it with Glyptal (or as appears, a competitive product), it has seen at least one re-work before this one.

  2. #202
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    What did you wind up using to pull the rear bell?

    Cal

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    Yes this motor and the inline MG are in good shape and the main reason I swapped them into place to replace the OE piggy back setup. They have been thru a motor shop at least once in their life. My piggy back setup was a mess in comparison.

    Regarding removing the end bell, it was really quite simple tool, but definitely needed to get the end bell off. I did pop a hole in the end bell at the shaft center line for the pusher bolt that I will plug with a 1/4 NTP plug.

    The simple tool was used to both push the bearing and shaft out of the end bell then later to pull the bearing off the shaft.

    img_20181109_233704376.jpg
    Last edited by rakort; 11-11-2018 at 10:07 PM.

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  5. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    Yes this motor and the inline MG are in good shape and the main reason I swapped them into place to replace the OE piggy back setup. They have been thru a motor shop at least once in their life. My piggy back setup was a mess in comparison.

    Regarding removing the end bell, it was really quite simple tool, but definitely needed to get the end bell off. I did pop a hole in the end bell at the shaft center line for the pusher bolt that I will plug with a 1/4 NTP plug.

    The simple tool was used to both push the bearing shaft out of the end bell then later to pull the bearing off the shaft.

    img_20181109_233704376.jpg
    I could be wrong about this, but ISTR there were TWO drivers for moving-off the inline exciter to the physically larger "piggyback" one.

    First was that quite a few of the inline model had roasted the smaller DC generator we class as the "exciter". Whether that was because a 10EE placed heavier loads on it than elevators had done, of because it was in a hotter and harder to ventilate "home" is above my pay-grade.

    The other reason may have been as important. The "piggyback" exciter seems to be the "mothership" for most of the load compensation trickery that even exists at all in an MG-era 10EE.

    Again above my pay-grade to know if an inline-exciter model had comparable load regulation/stabilizing/compensating features or never did.

  6. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Again above my pay-grade to know if an inline-exciter model had comparable load regulation/stabilizing/compensating features or never did.
    Yes it does

  7. #206
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    ok it has been a while since I've updated....

    Still working on the 10EE now and again in between GTX resto work....hopefully it will be done before I die! LOL

    Currently dug out all the covers and was cleaning them up and getting ready to paint them.


    So in my case, they have cast iron vent covers. Not sure when that changed to aluminum and such but that doesn't matter much.

    Question is for the moment....were the vent covers painted the same color as the lathe?

    I like the contrast of the aluminum vent covers, but also looking to keep things as original as reasonable.



    img_20190324_184600807.jpg

  8. #207
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    I painted the vent cover, handle spokes, some of the bezels like the front bearing retainer a darker gray. I really like the results.

    img_6674.jpg


    Cal

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  10. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    I painted the vent cover, handle spokes, some of the bezels like the front bearing retainer a darker gray. I really like the results.

    img_6674.jpg


    Cal

    I'm liking your look. Looks like I picked out a similar shade of grey/gray for the bulk of the machine and am enjoying the darker shade on the various accent locations like you.

    One question, I've been pondering locating or fabbing a TA chip cover. I see yours has the edges curved up. I saw a pix some place with what I thought was the curved edges orientated downward.

    What do you think? Curved downward and let the chips flow on or curved upward and let the chip accumulate?

    img_20190410_205142331.jpgimg_20190404_211339978.jpgimg_20190331_205720322.jpgimg_20190331_201638135.jpg

  11. #209
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    By the way, working over my head stock upper cover I'm needing some vent covers.....I have none of those for that piece. Would anyone have a set of those forsale?

    img_20190407_204010724.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    ...

    One question, I've been pondering locating or fabbing a TA chip cover. I see yours has the edges curved up. I saw a pix some place with what I thought was the curved edges orientated downward.

    What do you think? Curved downward and let the chips flow on or curved upward and let the chip accumulate?
    I like having the curve up, so that tools that I set there can't be easily brushed off into the narrow void behind my machine. I've never really had a problem with swarf gathering in it.

    An idea that another member had, that I thought was absolutely brilliant, is to find a suitable baker's sheet pan with a wire-reinforced edge and cut the trays out of two of the corners. You can get a nice stainless steel pan from a restaurant supply place or Amazon.

    Cal

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  14. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    One question, I've been pondering locating or fabbing a TA chip cover. I see yours has the edges curved up. I saw a pix some place with what I thought was the curved edges orientated downward.

    What do you think? Curved downward and let the chips flow on or curved upward and let the chip accumulate?
    Last time we had this discussion I posted a picture from the Monarch brochure showing their orientation.

    Here's one:



    Here's another:


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  16. #212
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    Default tailstock update

    Quick update on some recent progress. Giving the tailstock some love lately.


    Aligned the TS to the spindle. Didn't take too much. 5 thou shim up front raised the nose and put it on dead center with the spindle +/- a thou. TS quill is level/parallel with the spindle.

    img_20190513_224210899.jpg

    Fixed the way wiper holder that had a chunk out of it from some previous butcher of this machine.

    img_20180604_215244629.jpg

    img_20190523_222205900.jpg

    img_20190524_180614295.jpg

    Repacked the way wipers.

    img_20190525_185909738.jpg

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  18. #213
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    TS looking and working fine

    img_20190525_190404143.jpg

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    Any idea what that threaded hole on the center of the left side TS way wiper holder is for? Probably an 8-32 thread.

    img_20190525_191007868.jpg

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    One more questions for the moment!?

    what are the "set" screws in the side of the TS quill? They are near the tang of the MT2 arbor. What are these for? Is this a Monarch thing or something that someone came up with to hold the arbor in the TS quill?

    img_20190525_190806760.jpg

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    That was put there after it left the factory to keep the drill chuck from spinning.

    Hal

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  23. #217
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    Actually I "think" that is Monarch factory? I had a spare early quill and it had the same thing with the same slotted setscrews, but I haven't seen a number of early quills so I maybe wrong. Seems later did they figure a way to internally broach a stop for the MT2 tang. When I made a new TS quill, I put in the setscrews and it works just fine.

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  25. #218
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    No broaching is required. When I made my 10EE quill, I just milled an oval slot. I went in from both sides and met in the middle due to the depth/width.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I guess you should never say never,when talking about 10EES. There have been several changes in the last 80 years.

    Hal

  27. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    Any idea what that threaded hole on the center of the left side TS way wiper holder is for? Probably an 8-32 thread.
    Likely someone put a 'bump stop' on that to avoid crushing the wiper holder a second time, or maybe to not crush a DRO reader on the cross slide.

    On the other issue the 'set screws' in the quill are stops for a morse taper tang, typically used on drills. Those puppies are pretty hard, I made new ones for mt MT3 quill from A2, The threaded hole in the quill didn't seem to be tapped all the way through so they'd torque in nicely and I duplicated that in both my MT2 and MT3 quills.

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