rakort
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Location
- Central Wisconsin
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Welcome to the club and welcome to the Monarch forum!
What's the serial number and build date?
I'll be happy to help you out if you have any problems with the motor/generator (MG) drive.
Cal
I don't actually know of anyone running an MG machine using a VFD. I think that by the time you get to a large enough VFD to run a 10EE, it's cheaper to go with an RPC (rotary phase converter). You can usually buy a used 7.5HP, 3-phase motor to use as the idler for under $100. An RPC parts kit is under $100, complete panels are under $200. With an RPC you can run other 3-phase equipment that may follow you home in the future.thanks Cal, I appreciate the offer and will take you up on it! I plan on getting the MG drive running and keeping it.
It is "looking" to be in pretty good shape.
It is sn 19377 dated 5-1943
I figured one of my first orders of business would be getting the drive running so I can check out the rest of the lathe. Pretty happy with the overall condition so far.
I ordered a manual today from Monarch.
Any pointers to good reads on the drive system would be helpful right now.
I will run the lathe on single phase so I was "thinking" I'd run the 3-phase MG motor with a VFD...looks like a 5HP VFD will do it with a 13.2 amp input. Anyone doing this?
I don't actually know of anyone running an MG machine using a VFD. I think that by the time you get to a large enough VFD to run a 10EE, it's cheaper to go with an RPC (rotary phase converter). You can usually buy a used 7.5HP, 3-phase motor to use as the idler for under $100. An RPC parts kit is under $100, complete panels are under $200. With an RPC you can run other 3-phase equipment that may follow you home in the future.
Another option is a so-called "static phase converter", which is really nothing more than a 3-phase motor starter. The cost around $100. Once the MG is started, it will continue to run on single phase. Adding a pair of run capacitors helps a lot.
Cal
Let us know how that works out if you go that route.
If you're using a VFD with an MG, you would set it up to ramp the MG's motor up at startup and then leave it at 60 cycles.
Shutting off the VFD via a emergency stop won't stop the spindle very quickly. You would also want a relay to interrupt C3 from the headstock switch.
Cal
I didn't say it wasn't a good option, I'm just not aware of anyone who's doing it. It certainly wouldn't surprise me to find out that there are MG-drive 10EEs with VFDs. But the last time I looked into it, it was about $500 for a VFD that would do the job. If you can now get one for around $125 that will work, great.I will let the group know. I just haven't figured out why this isn't a good option, but yet no one has apparently done it? Not really looking to add another 5th "motor" (and or generator or two) into the mix that a RPC would add to run the lathe.
Brian aka rakort aka rak
I didn't say it wasn't a good option, I'm just not aware of anyone who's doing it. It certainly wouldn't surprise me to find out that there are MG-drive 10EEs with VFDs. But the last time I looked into it, it was about $500 for a VFD that would do the job. If you can now get one for around $125 that will work, great.
Be aware that the MG drive's dynamic braking relies on having full field voltage to quickly stop the spindle. If you cut power to the MG's motor, field voltage will fall as the MG winds down. You might want to time how long it takes to stop the spindle from full speed by just interrupting C3 vs. interrupting C3 and dropping out the VFD.
Out of curiosity, what's driving the desire/need for the emergency stop function?
Cal
Out of curiosity, what's driving the desire/need for the emergency stop function?
Cal
WTB......anyone got a half nut lever? I haven't been able to get mine to move.....probably why the knob is broken off the end. Possibly a frozen up interlock pin / ball / spring?
Many lathes have a wide foot-bar for a mechanical brake that also cuts power, my Cazeneuve, and most Korean/Taiwanese units sold in far higher volume among those. That can be a convenience, every day, all-day just as much as an emergency stop, so it is "on my menu".
Goods to do the braking can come from the ATV supply chain. Airheart and others offer a short-ton of options in internally expanding drum brakes, external band-type drum, and many disk types.
Actuation can be mechanical, hydraulic, or air operated.
Warner Electric, Dings, & Sputniks - think offshore groundskeeping mowers - have the electric + spring operated ones, too from around a hundred bucks on up.
Hopefully, you'll beat me to completion so I can learn from your project!
The very early piggy-back MG sets used a generator with a large pulley. 1-to-1 (ish) is correct for your exciter and you appear to have original pulleys.so few more dumb newb questions if you yalls don't mind?
what is an appropriate ratio to drive the exciter generator?
View attachment 223307
View attachment 223308
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thanks
rak
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