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New member to the Monarch 10ee family

bonestock

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Location
Atlanta, Ga
Pulled the trigger on a Monarch 10EE out of a southeast DOE facility (sight-unseen except for photos). It's a 1966 Modular model with ELSR and what seems to be most of the taper attachment (photos are missing the bracket that mount to the ways). It's indicated to be in great working shape but it's not my first rodeo/auction so there is bound to be something that needs attention.

I'll be transporting the machine about 300 miles over south carolina and and georgia highways on a 5ton equipment trailer. Transport prep seems to be pretty standard as I understand except I may want to go to the extra care of removing the covers and tubes. Cover removal seems to be more important with earlier models -- so I assume it is something that I want to be aware of with the 1966 modular version too.

It's July in the southeast so an afternoon thunderstorm would not be out of the question during the trip back -- though I'm going to try my best to transport as early in the day as possible. I usually wrap and tarp my machines fairly well -- anything else I may need to look out for on these machines? Something that I may want to wrap up extra tight?

Anyway, I just wanted to say hello as I expect I will be a bit more active in this area of the forum as tool up and troubleshoot the unknown along the way.
 
Pulled the trigger on a Monarch 10EE out of a southeast DOE facility (sight-unseen except for photos). It's a 1966 Modular model with ELSR and what seems to be most of the taper attachment (photos are missing the bracket that mount to the ways). It's indicated to be in great working shape but it's not my first rodeo/auction so there is bound to be something that needs attention.

I'll be transporting the machine about 300 miles over south carolina and and georgia highways on a 5ton equipment trailer. Transport prep seems to be pretty standard as I understand except I may want to go to the extra care of removing the covers and tubes. Cover removal seems to be more important with earlier models -- so I assume it is something that I want to be aware of with the 1966 modular version too.

It's July in the southeast so an afternoon thunderstorm would not be out of the question during the trip back -- though I'm going to try my best to transport as early in the day as possible. I usually wrap and tarp my machines fairly well -- anything else I may need to look out for on these machines? Something that I may want to wrap up extra tight?

Anyway, I just wanted to say hello as I expect I will be a bit more active in this area of the forum as tool up and troubleshoot the unknown along the way.

Top heavy...plan accordingly
 
When I transported mine several years ago, I pulled the Tailstock and tooling from spindle and tool post.

Several layers of stretch wrap kept the water off.

Bill
 
Yeah watch that tail stock I nearly lost mine off the end when pull g it up the trailer ramp. At least make sure it's locked.
 
Congratulations on your lathe. I watched this one through several rounds but did not bid on it this time. I think you bought a good 10EE for a reasonable price and you will enjoy it.
I have moved two of them, both are MG versions. The head end has two support pads with bolt holes through them, but the tail stock end has one support pad in the center. I placed boards under each side of the tail stock end, of the base casting, to make it more stable while transporting. This helps with instability concerns. I did not use a pallet under the lathe as I lifted it from above. I used a low tilt bed trailer but decided to lift the lathe off instead of sliding it off the trailer.
I moved one into the shop with Roll-a-lifts. This worked good as I managed to get the lathe into final position. The second lathe is still sitting on the heavy duty pallet I built to move it around in the rat hole.I lifted the lathe onto the pallet then moved with pipes.
The pallet is 2x6 top on 4x4 risers
Bruce
 
Top heavy...plan accordingly

10-4

I plan to take as much or more care than I have with previous top heavy moves (gear head pedestal lathes such as Leblond). My preference is to lift from above whenever possible. We'll have forklifts on either end (mine being 12k lb capacity). So things should be done proper and with equipment capable of moving a 3600lb machine easily.
 
hitandmiss said:
When I transported mine several years ago, I pulled the Tailstock and tooling from spindle and tool post.

Several layers of stretch wrap kept the water off.

Bill

Yeah watch that tail stock I nearly lost mine off the end when pull g it up the trailer ramp. At least make sure it's locked.

Good idea. Sadly this machine doesn't appear to come with any spindle tooling but tailstock removal or extra attention via strap and wrap is cheap insurance.
 
Congratulations on your lathe. I watched this one through several rounds but did not bid on it this time. I think you bought a good 10EE for a reasonable price and you will enjoy it.
I have moved two of them, both are MG versions. The head end has two support pads with bolt holes through them, but the tail stock end has one support pad in the center. I placed boards under each side of the tail stock end, of the base casting, to make it more stable while transporting. This helps with instability concerns. I did not use a pallet under the lathe as I lifted it from above. I used a low tilt bed trailer but decided to lift the lathe off instead of sliding it off the trailer.
I moved one into the shop with Roll-a-lifts. This worked good as I managed to get the lathe into final position. The second lathe is still sitting on the heavy duty pallet I built to move it around in the rat hole.I lifted the lathe onto the pallet then moved with pipes.
The pallet is 2x6 top on 4x4 risers
Bruce

Great info. Almost every lathe I have or have moved up to this point have 4, 6, or 8 feet. The boards on either side of the tail for stability are the gems I'm after. For moves I usually load my truck with various lengths of 4x4, 2x4, and 2x6 to be ready for the unknown.
 
I don't see many 10ee transported with chains but instead nylon straps. I almost always prefer chains -- at a minimum to keep the load from moving forward in a quick stop. From photos its not clear if the ELSR shaft will interfere with a chain and padded moving blanket between the base and below the bed. Hopefully it won't.
 
I hauled mine on my car hauler. Screwed lumber to the trailer deck on all sides of the lathe’s perimeter and strapped it down with As many straps as I could jam on it. Checked and rechecked tension periodically. Hauled from Pueblo Co., to Mapleton, Utah on I-70 (Denver, Vail, Eisenhower Tunnel, etc.) and it went well.
I have problems with drowsiness while driving...but not when I have a machine on my trailer. Fear keeps me wide awake.
 
I don't see many 10ee transported with chains but instead nylon straps. I almost always prefer chains -- at a minimum to keep the load from moving forward in a quick stop. From photos its not clear if the ELSR shaft will interfere with a chain and padded moving blanket between the base and below the bed. Hopefully it won't.

I am a chain guy too. Straps flutter in the wind and come loose.
Pics of my move are in post #15 in this thread.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/1943-round-dial-10ee-footprint-question-316123/

Notice it is sitting on 3 - 2X12's so the "feet" are not supporting the lathe.

Bill
 
There isn't a smiley that says...


this thread is worthless without pixs! :)

LOL, fair enough. Here are a few pics from the auction.

1055_14517_9.jpg1055_14517_5.jpg1055_14517_1.jpg1055_14517_16.jpg

From ebay this week I nabbed the taper attachment to the ways, a 2J collet chuck, and a steady rest (for the later taller models). 4 jaw and 3 jaw chucks to follow as time/funds/work allows.

I am eager to pick it up over the next week or so.
 
That's nice. I missed the sale price but I gather you're happy with it.

BTW properly used lorry ratchet straps don't come loose and for the short distance they'll span for strapping that lathe there's no fear of them fluttering either. If they do, they aren't tight enough.
 
That's nice. I missed the sale price but I gather you're happy with it.

BTW properly used lorry ratchet straps don't come loose and for the short distance they'll span for strapping that lathe there's no fear of them fluttering either. If they do, they aren't tight enough.

$6665 was the price after the auction fee - The reserve was not hit but they offered it to me a few days after the auction closed. Not the best of deals but based on the past few 10ee's I have chased over the last few years, not the worst of deals either.
 
I picked up the lathe this past Wednesday -- 4am - 7pm made for a long day on the road.

After persuading the warehouse guys to not lift it from above by putting slings around the bottom -- we ended up lifting by the webbing between the ways. Loading went pretty quick and easy and was otherwise uneventful.

I spent the next hour pulling the covers, inspecting and wrapping her up with plastic, blankets, and finally a tarp in what must have been high 90 degree temps and humidity about the same. .... I really wish I brought a change of clothes. Soggy drawers and a 4+hr trip home was less than ideal. :ack2: Ha

I ended up using (4) 3000wll straps to hold the machine. With ELSR and levers in the way I didn't really see any good place to route the chains. With the covers off I probably could have put a chain around the cutout in the base of the casting but the wood was placed in such a way that it I wasn't going to get a chain through.

Anyway I noticed right off the bat that it had no tubes to remove and the module drive has since been replaced by a VFD and 5hp baldor motor while retaining the backgear. It seems very professionally done and ties back into the factory controls. Closer inspection of the VFD and motor shows the VFD is the 460 volt variety and not 208/230 so I'll be on the hunt for a replacement. The Baldor motor is also just a general purpose 5hp 1750rpm motor. Max rpm of the motor seems to be around 2200rpm -- so I'll probably look to replace it with a Black Max of either 5hp or 7.5hp at some point for the higher rpm range they provide.

20180721_174041.jpg20180721_173433.jpg20180721_174015.jpg20180721_174008.jpg20180718_101103.jpg
 
Max rpm of the motor seems to be around 2200rpm -- so I'll probably look to replace it with a Black Max of either 5hp or 7.5hp at some point for the higher rpm range they provide.
Web band around bed web was a righteous way to lift! Well done on not pranging your con-trols, too!

More than just higher max RPM, the "inverter Duty" Black Max are made for this type of tasking, even have helpful figures right on the nameplate for power expected at extended RPM.

No one that has used them so far - 7.5 HP especially - has yet complained, anyway.

:)
 
Web band around bed web was a righteous way to lift! Well done on not pranging your con-trols, too!

More than just higher max RPM, the "inverter Duty" Black Max are made for this type of tasking, even have helpful figures right on the nameplate for power expected at extended RPM.

No one that has used them so far - 7.5 HP especially - has yet complained, anyway.

:)
I had never heard of the black max line until researching the monarch's I've been scouting. They really seem to be a great bang for the buck.

The 5hp should bolt right up to the existing setup with no further modification since it has the same size shaft. The 7.5hp I expect will require boring and keyway cutting to fit the gearbox. This is all assumption until I start digging in.


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