My brother was spent a week here installing a Parker drive system in my 10EE WIAD machine. He had done all the design work at home and assembled the majority of the components at home. Before going any further I would caution you to think this was an "easy" process. My brother has a machinist back round, a great deal of schooling, and 40 plus years experience working as an engineer with drive systems including being a partner in a business that designed and installed many varied drive systems. This project would have been way beyond my abilities. Although, I was responsible to wire and mount the work light. I also got to do a lot of "fetching, carrying, and light holding." What follows is what he wrote as I thought others would be interested in the conversion. Thanks, Don Hansen. Take it away Rich!
Finally rebuilt the Monarch 10EE Drive Controls. Not as easy as one might be led to believe, but a doable project with the right knowledge.
Removed the old electrical equipment in the main panel (Original Elec Cabinet), Tube Tray (Cabinet Photo Closeup Tubes) and the Operator Station (Existing Op Panel). Had to grind / cut out the tube shelf which we were not expecting. A bit of a mechanical challenge. Once cleaned out, we were ready to install the new panel (Empty Elec Cab). While the design was being done, we had the DC Motor completely overhauled.
The new panel was designed and built prior to the retrofit. The panel was designed to fit into the existing electrical enclosure. The main transformer, T5 was reused to provide 300 VAC to the Armature Voltage DC Drive. As per previous posts, we used two Parker Drives, the 514C-32 for the Armature Voltage and the 507 for the Field Voltage.
A small Allen Bradley, Micro830 Controller was used as the control circuit needed 10 or more control relays. (Too much wiring to do it that way!!)
The new Operator Panel (Operator Panel) and Electrical Panel (Complete Panel Retrofit) were installed. Some of the old wiring was reused, primarily, wire from Transformer T5, Armature and Field motor windings.
Here’s some features that we ended up with.
• Speed control via one Potentiometer, much like the original build.
• When shifting the carriage spindle switch quickly from Forward to Reverse, the spindle slows to zero, then reverses into the same speed as previously set, but in the opposite direction.
• A red Fault Light glows steady if there is a drive fault. It flashes if the operator tries something that’s not allowed (starting drive while carriage switch is in Forward/Reverse, Drive not Enabled When Start is pressed, Spindle Lock Engaged when trying to start drive).
• The carriage switch puts the spindle in Forward / Neutral / Reverse just as in the original machine control. Whatever speed is set on the Potentiometer is what speed the spindle rotates at, in Forward or Reverse.
• A circuit detects when the carriage switch is moved from Forward/Reverse to Neutral. This circuit allows the spindle to come to a stop being dynamically braked by the Armature Voltage drive. (The armature voltage speed reference is forced to zero to quickly brake the spindle).
• If the machine sits idle for a few minutes, the Enable light turns off, indicating that drive power has been turned off, allowing the Field Voltage to not sit on the Field during periods of non-use.
• If the Emergency Stop button is pressed, the Main Contactor drops out, allowing safe machine adjustments. The Emergency Stop button lights steady read for several minutes, then goes out if the machine is not restarted.
Any comments are welcome. We have the schematics and program available for this build if anyone is interested. As with all projects, there are quite a few changes that we would make to realize an easier build. Live and learn.
Finally rebuilt the Monarch 10EE Drive Controls. Not as easy as one might be led to believe, but a doable project with the right knowledge.
Removed the old electrical equipment in the main panel (Original Elec Cabinet), Tube Tray (Cabinet Photo Closeup Tubes) and the Operator Station (Existing Op Panel). Had to grind / cut out the tube shelf which we were not expecting. A bit of a mechanical challenge. Once cleaned out, we were ready to install the new panel (Empty Elec Cab). While the design was being done, we had the DC Motor completely overhauled.
The new panel was designed and built prior to the retrofit. The panel was designed to fit into the existing electrical enclosure. The main transformer, T5 was reused to provide 300 VAC to the Armature Voltage DC Drive. As per previous posts, we used two Parker Drives, the 514C-32 for the Armature Voltage and the 507 for the Field Voltage.
A small Allen Bradley, Micro830 Controller was used as the control circuit needed 10 or more control relays. (Too much wiring to do it that way!!)
The new Operator Panel (Operator Panel) and Electrical Panel (Complete Panel Retrofit) were installed. Some of the old wiring was reused, primarily, wire from Transformer T5, Armature and Field motor windings.
Here’s some features that we ended up with.
• Speed control via one Potentiometer, much like the original build.
• When shifting the carriage spindle switch quickly from Forward to Reverse, the spindle slows to zero, then reverses into the same speed as previously set, but in the opposite direction.
• A red Fault Light glows steady if there is a drive fault. It flashes if the operator tries something that’s not allowed (starting drive while carriage switch is in Forward/Reverse, Drive not Enabled When Start is pressed, Spindle Lock Engaged when trying to start drive).
• The carriage switch puts the spindle in Forward / Neutral / Reverse just as in the original machine control. Whatever speed is set on the Potentiometer is what speed the spindle rotates at, in Forward or Reverse.
• A circuit detects when the carriage switch is moved from Forward/Reverse to Neutral. This circuit allows the spindle to come to a stop being dynamically braked by the Armature Voltage drive. (The armature voltage speed reference is forced to zero to quickly brake the spindle).
• If the machine sits idle for a few minutes, the Enable light turns off, indicating that drive power has been turned off, allowing the Field Voltage to not sit on the Field during periods of non-use.
• If the Emergency Stop button is pressed, the Main Contactor drops out, allowing safe machine adjustments. The Emergency Stop button lights steady read for several minutes, then goes out if the machine is not restarted.
Any comments are welcome. We have the schematics and program available for this build if anyone is interested. As with all projects, there are quite a few changes that we would make to realize an easier build. Live and learn.