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New Project 10 EE - was idiot moving a lathe

The weight rating on those 4" straps is way more than the lathe weighs, good job.

You even got a complete taper attachment with the vernier adjuster and everything, congrats.

Doug
 
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At first I thought this was a pic of someone pulling a 10EE home with an MG, like an MGB or a Midget.

Glad you got her home OK.

Kurt
 
I have this great mental image after the above post of a MG midget being chased down a looong hill by an angry EE intent on squishing the little upstart of a car......
 
Okay, here are the pics, dont let this happen to your lathe. From the photos, it looks like it went down with the titantic, but it is just dust and grease.

Motor tag - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0719.jpg
motor - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0717.jpg
idler - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0716.jpg
left side - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0715.jpg
serial number - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0725.jpg
thread chaser - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0723.jpg
cross slide - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0722.jpg
thread chart - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0721.jpg
bar stop - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0720.jpg
md tag? - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0728.jpg
ta - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0726.jpg
collant pump http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0735.jpg
ven dial - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0731.jpg
cross slide - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0733.jpg
ways that were covered - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0751.jpg
tach - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0749.jpg
name plate - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0743.jpg
motor gen - http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/jason_H_2006/IMG_0736.jpg
 
Jason

Put on a pair of coveralls and I think I would start with a shop vac and see if that would suck up the grit and shop dirt.
Also use a scrapes to get down to the paint and aid in loosing the build up of dirt. The scraper doesn't have to be sharp and if your digging in with the corners of the scraper round the corners off on the grinder.

Once you get everything vacuumed off that you can use a cleaning agent. Work one area at a time, top to bottom.
You if you use something like PURPLE POWER or GREASED LIGHTING it will cut through the grease that's built a film on the machine surface. ( spray PP on and watch the grease run)It will soften the paint if left on for an extended time. Wear rubber glove when working with PP or GL. I use those blue shop paper towels to wipe the grease with. Some spots I use Scotch Brite pads to help loose grease on painted surfaces. Store your dirty shop rags in a metal container with a lid or lay out to dry.

K potter recommends ACE brand toilet bowl cleaner for rust remover. (he rebuilds machines for a living)

The end covers for the headstock you could probably power wash if you have one.
HAL
 
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Shop vac, Shop vac, Shop vac!

DO NOT use compressed air at this point, lest dirt and other bad stuff be driven into places where it should not be.

Then, start wiping down with mineral spirits. Something mild, not very volatile.

If you are lucky the rust will be "flash rust" and will come off easily with mineral spirits and a bronze brush.

Use Scotch Brite pads sparingly.
 
Jason, looks like a great piece to start with, Complete sure helps, cleaning dirt is always so fulfilling, because you can quickly see the result. Semi-instant gradification.

While the tie down method you used worked well, home safe and sound. If anything other than the perfect ride you had happened, the result would have been anything but pretty. And that is something that you should prepare for, In your short haul the chances were very small that you would need to stop short, or swerve quickly, if you had the machine would well have come off the truck.

The problem is a strap across the lathe base has no force to hold the lathe down, the idea is to prevent it from moving. If you wrapped the strap one turn on each around the headstock and tailstock for each strap that would have prevented side to side movement. Then a strap attached to the rear of the lathe to the end of the truck bed would prevent the most common problem of sliding forward under hard braking. A truck that size has about 1000HP worth of brakes. Your concern of going uphill and the lathe sliding backwards can be seen by the angle you put on the strap at the headstock end, but you had nothing at all keeping it from sliding forward under braking, and far more restraint is needed in that direction, than the slight force of gravity when goind up hill.

I used to move heavy machinery, backhoe, Dozers etc. I always tied them down, some guys just set the brake an go. I overheaded a backhoe on a bridge, broke the pintle hook, front end of the truck pulled in the air, backhoe still attached to the trailer when I stopped. Had it not been tied right, a far more ugly picture would have been painted.

I don't mean to take away from your successful move, but want to point out to someone that may read this, that things went all in your favor on this move, its not always that way.

Good luck with your new 10EE, make chips.
 








 
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