10EE Headstock Rebuild

I’ve taken the headstock of my 1948 10EE nearly apart to clean the gunk out of the oil sumps and to put in new bearings for the feed gears. The spindle bearings seem to be good and are not being replaced, at least for the time being. The following questions have arisen;

1) How do you get the shaft that holds the shifter yoke out? This shaft has round ends which support a pair of ball-bearing idler gears and a square center section where the yoke and rack gear attach to it. It looks like the end support cylinders are pressed into the casting at the factory and require draconian actions to remove them. Do any of you guys out there have a simple method get this thing out of there?

2) The white paint has flaked away from the casting in places and I wish to re-paint the interior of the headstock (another reason I want to get the shifter yoke shaft out of there). Of immediate concern is getting the metal clean enough to get new paint to stick. In other places on the machine, I’ve scrubbed the white paint with MEK which partial dissolves the existing finish. Then I’ve bushed on almond-colored Rustoleum. In my tests, the machine oil does not attack the new Rustoleum. But will this approach stand the test of time? Does anyone have a better idea?

3) Finally, is there a good way to clean the spindle bearings before re-assembly? As you know, the two front bearings are separated by precision length spacers, and seem to be pressed on to the spindle. I would like to get the off the spindle, but I’m afraid that any attempt to remove them may be courting disaster … Comments?

BIG Toys

Have you tried doing a search on your questions?
There is a lot of information available.

On the headstock inside painting you might try searching for topics by Daryl Bane or Forrest I think they used something like bathtub paint.

If nothing else maybe you'll turn up a picture of Daryl's 10EE he's rebuilt. SUPER NICE.

Hal

Thanks 220Swift. Doing a search might be the best way, because I just can't remember the details. The shaft that was the real buggabear was that front gear that runs under the spindle. Had to make special install shafts to set in without it going in crooked. If you can't come up with any pics due to the upgrade etc, post here and I'll look for some.
As per 220Swift, Forrest had recommended a two part tub and sink epoxy,(I used Klenks brand) to paint the insides. This paint on mine has been immersed in DTE for 4 to 5 years now and has worked perfectly, no softening, or changing color at all. The only glitch I would think is getting a good clean surface to paint over.

Yes, I checked previous postings. I saw Daryl Bane's fine restoration, and did searches on key words. There's a fair discussion on spindle bearings, but still the details mentioned in my previous post remain elusive.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

The problem with removing bearings is force is applied to the outer race jamming the balls into the inner race.

Is this the shaft?

Allright here goes, I hope my memory is correct. The gears are pressed onto ball bearings. The ball bearing are in turn lightly pressed onto bushes. There is a ground keeper plate that is setscrewed to the bush, to keep the ball/gear from falling off the bush. It is a kinda Chinese puzzle procedure to remove the keeperplates, push them forward, then push the gear/ball off the front of the bush. The rear of the bush just happens to be the right size to accept a proper tap to thread the inside of the end of the bush. You will then fabricate a slide hammer/puller arrangement, to pull the bush from the headstock casting. The shaft can now be pulled thru the hole left by the now removed bush.
The front spindle bearings will come out with the spindle to the front. They will not be a tight fit in the headstock or on the spindle. Be careful and you should not have any problems. The bearings will need to be aligned back onto the spindle with the high spots opposed to each other, these high points will/should be marked on the bearing races. Any questions?

Thanks for the information on getting that shaft (EE-2889) out. I see what you mean by it being a Chinese puzzle. The trick seems to be to tap the center of the leftmost bushing to be able to pull it out with a slide hammer.

I’m debating whether to do this, or let well enough alone. Complicating matters is that on my 1948, there is a plug (EE-1095) which goes into the bushing (EE-2892), which would have to be removed before tapping. Not really a show-stopper. Worst though, there is what appears to be a shortened taper pin (16067) that goes into a blind hole in the bushing that keys the ground keeper-plate so it doesn’t spin. It doesn’t appear on Daryl’s picture. This would have to be removed or ground off before bushing removal. Uugghh.

So the happy saga continues…

Thanks again for the advice.