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Paint Thats Used in Gearboxes.

m-lud

Stainless
Joined
Sep 4, 2016
What is a paint or epoxy that is used in gearboxes. Does it hold up so well because it's untouched by tools and chips or is it a durable epoxy coating.
I'm also thinking about the chip pan. I considered truck bed liner for just the inside of the chip pan. Looking for that majic indistructable paint!
My reason for asking about the gearbox paint is its made to hold up in oil. It always seems to hold up well.
When the 10ee comes home I will pull the saddle ,apron and remove the cross slide and compound too clean and assure that the oil passages are clear and replace the wipers. Tailstock also.
I don't want too turn it into a project lathe but not knowing the history I see it as preventative maintenance. It's Texasgunsmith's fault from watching his 61 series thread. Actually a good thing. It's a lot more work to repair or replace worn out parts from running dry.
Oil must flow!
I tend to over oil. The guy that came up with that foaming action with PB Blaster made his company wealthy. You think its soaking in so you give it one more squirt. Then wipe it off of the floor.
Back too paint. With the removal of all the parts on the ways its a good time too repaint.
Its friggin ugly!gggff.jpgSilver green.
The repaint will be the last. When the usual areas wear off that's fine. Its a lathe.

I know , not another paint thread. Advise. Remove all the paint and oil it down. All natural.:scratchchin:
Thanks Mike
 
I know glyptal will hold up to being submerged in oil, can't say I would use it for a paint on main machine though. I would think a 2 part epoxy would hold up to oil, but might work best on a new cast iron gearbox vs an oil soaked cast iron gearbox.

The no paint, natural cast iron look is hideous in my opinion:D
 
I can't vouch for inside a closed gear box. But externally I like oil based enamel, and it has worked for me. Particularly high gloss enamel.

I scrub external areas with mineral spirits to removed oil. When its dry, and I believe I'm clean enough for paint, I then wipe down with paint thinner.

Both mineral spirits and paint thinner dry pretty fast.

In a few minutes, after thinner dries. I prime.

I give 12-24 hours for primer to cure.

I fine grit, light sand, primed surface. Then wipe dust off.

Then I paint. I give a bare minimum of two days before I touch or allow oils and such. If I can help it, I love to let it sit 3 to 5 days. In one day it feels dry, but those extra days it really hardens and cures.

After that time period I can dump all the oil I want on it, no problem.

If I missed a spot of oil during clean up, the paint will be slightly sticky on that spot, or slightly discolored. I wipe that spot good, removing the paint just in that area with mineral spirits. Let it dry, repaint that one small spot.

Its worked for me and I've had oil lay on areas for long periods.
 
I know glyptal will hold up to being submerged in oil, can't say I would use it for a paint on main machine though. I would think a 2 part epoxy would hold up to oil, but might work best on a new cast iron gearbox vs an oil soaked cast iron gearbox. The no paint, natural cast iron look is hideous in my opinion:D
I like paint vs bare. Especially when most machine castings are so rough and filled with Bondo type material to be smooth.I use a hardener in industrial enamel for tractors. It's pretty good. The automotive epoxy's are probably best for durability. I have never tried using them on an industrial machine.I'll be the only user. I brought the end covers home and got the urge to get started. Thanks Mike
 
I can't vouch for inside a closed gear box. But externally I like oil based enamel, and it has worked for me. Particularly high gloss enamel.

I scrub external areas with mineral spirits to removed oil. When its dry, and I believe I'm clean enough for paint, I then wipe down with paint thinner.




Both mineral spirits and paint thinner dry pretty fast.

In a few minutes, after thinner dries. I prime.

I give 12-24 hours for primer to cure.

I fine grit, light sand, primed surface. Then wipe dust off.

Then I paint. I give a bare minimum of two days before I touch or allow oils and such. If I can help it, I love to let it sit 3 to 5 days. In one day it feels dry, but those extra days it really hardens and cures.

After that time period I can dump all the oil I want on it, no problem.

If I missed a spot of oil during clean up, the paint will be slightly sticky on that spot, or slightly discolored. I wipe that spot good, removing the paint just in that area with mineral spirits. Let it dry, repaint that one small spot.

Its worked for me and I've had oil lay on areas for long periods.

Your paint looks great. That's similar to my tractor painting procedure I use enamel on them.
. I guess I may try an Epoxy this time. I don't always paint on my machines and don't always take the same prep time as with a tractor. Good preparation is everything .I painted cars for a while in the early 80's. The products have all changed .It was Acrylic enamel back then.
I don't keep up with new paint products..
 
Way way back when I worked for a company that made reduction gears for opening large valves all the ones for critical use used Glyptal to coat the inside surfaces. It was often specified by the customer so it must have stood up well.
 
Way way back when I worked for a company that made reduction gears for opening large valves all the ones for critical use used Glyptal to coat the inside surfaces. It was often specified by the customer so it must have stood up well.


Well it covers a huge line of uses and formulas. Even in high gloss topcoats. Its alkyd based.
EDIT
WAIT ALL THOSE PRODUCTS ARE NOT GLYPTAL COATINGS [COMPANY NAME] ??







Ext
Specialty Coatings and Adhesives
(617)884-6918
[email protected]


G11.jpg

Insulating Coatings

1201
(Aerosol Avail. 1201A)Red Alkyd (Brush/Spray/Dip). Bake or air dry. Meets MIL-E22118; used for coils, armatures and other electrical apparatus. Also used as a primer, sealer for screws, pipes, vacuum systems and hydraulic fluid chambers.1201
Light Blue
Light Blue version of the 1201. Bake or air dry. Meets MIL-E22118; used for coils, armatures and other electrical apparatus. Also used as a primer, sealer for screws, pipes, vacuum systems and hydraulic fluid chambers. 1201
White
White version of the 1201. Bake or air dry. Meets MIL-E22118; used for coils, armatures and other electrical apparatus. Also used as a primer, sealer for screws, pipes, vacuum systems and hydraulic fluid chambers. 1201BRed Alkyd (Brush/Spray/Dip. Bake or Air dry . Higher solid, higher viscosity version of 1201.1209Gloss Black Alkyd (Brush/Spray). Bake or air dry. Use on small motor stators, field coils, end windings, bus bars and switch bases. Also used as finishing coat on electrical equipment for interior exposure. 74004Buff Catalyst Curing Epoxy. 74010 hardener required. Designed to give maximum durability and resistance; used on industrial equipment exposed to oils, coolants and other corrosive agents; frequently used on large end windings.74004
red
Red version of the 74004 74010 hardener required. Designed to give maximum durability and resistance; used on industrial equipment exposed to oils, coolants and other corrosive agents; frequently used on large end windings.7815Gloss Black Alkyd (Brush/Spray). Bake or air dry. Used as a finishing coat on end windings and as finish coat on electrical apparatus where resistance to oil, humidity and weather is required.C1149ASA49 Gray Version of 74004. 74010 hardener required.CE237Black Alkyd (Spray/Dip). Bake or air dry. An offset to the 7815 with improved arc resistance. Designed for finishing motor end windings for oil and chemical resistance.CE387Blue Epoxy (Brush/Spray). Air dry. 74010 hardener required. Designed for heavy duty resistance to oil, coolants, corrosive agents to give maximum durability and chemical resistance. Used on heavy machinery, industrial equipment, interior walls, metal partitions, and laboratory areas.Insulating Varnishes

1202Clear General Purpose Insulating and Finishing Alkyd Varnish. Air dry. Excellent heat resistance. Up to 145C on non flexing equipment. Although primarily an air-drying varnish, the oil, moisture, acid, and salt water resistance are greatly improved by baking9620Clear Insulating and Finishing Varnish. Air dry. Excellent oil, moisture and acid resistance. Up to 130C on non flexing equipment. Although primarily an air-drying varnish, the oil, moisture, acid, and salt water resistance are greatly improved by baking.Semi-Conductive Coatings

9921Dark Green Flat Semi-Conducting Paint. Air dry. Designed for equalizing voltage stress and to prevent or decrease corona discharge.
Resistivity: 3,000-32,000 OHMS/SQ.Harderner

74010Epoxy Hardener. For 74004, C1149, CE387, 74121Adhesives

880A Thermoplastic Shellac Base Adhesive. Designed for bonding gaskets; used wherever excellent oil resistance is required, i.e., transformers, etc.1276Fast Air Drying General Purpose Adhesive. For bonding porcelain, glass, leather, cork, paper, metals, fabrics, some rubbers and cements.2142GNFast Air Drying Thermoplastic Vinyl Cement. For bonding cotton, Dacron, polyester fiber, nylon, glass tapes, laminates, slot wedges, mylar, polyester film, mica products, polyester products, vinyl products, wire enamels, paints, rayon, plastics, and metals. Has excellent resistance to oil, gasoline and moisture.C1800Very High Viscosity Version of 1201. For use as a quick-dry, high viscosity gasket seal and also in a variety of pipe-thread compound, gasket adhesive, vacuum system sealer, etc; does not have the electrical properties of 1201.7526FGeneral Purpose Adhesive with Fungicide Resistant Properties. Its basic use is for tamper proof application over screws.Industrial Primers-Solventborne

7920Pearl Gray Primer (Spray). Air Dry. Designed for use on metal substrate. Fast dry, sandability, lacquer topcoat acceptance along with humidity and corrosion resistance makes this coating the ideal “shopcoat” primer.8001Red Oxide Primer (Spray/Dip/Flow). Bake or air dry. Excellent humidity, corrosion, and oil resistance. Adheres to phenolic and phenolic varnish filmsC1149ASA49 Catalyst Cured Epoxy. (Brush/Spray). 74010 hardener required. Used as a primer/topcoat for maximum corrosion, oil, coolant, and chemical resistance.C1968High Solid Gray Primer/Topcoat. (Spray). Air dry. Designed for use on metal substrates. Excellent sandability and corrosion resistance. This product can be topcoated with various lacquers and/or two package urethanes.G7635Red Iron Oxide Zinc Chromate Primer (Brush/Spray). Air dry. An excellent rust-inhibiting primer for metal surfaces such as transformer tanks, switchgear cabinets, machinery, etc. Should be followed by finish coat selected to suit the exposure. Interior or exterior service.Industrial Topcoats-Solventborne

1559White Gloss Alkyd Nitrocellulose Lacquer (Spray/Dip). Air dry. Custom finish for industrial products. Suitable for hospital and kitchen equipment. Good exterior durability with excellent gloss and color retention.2600Black Gloss Alkyd Nitrocellulose Lacquer (Spray/Dip). Air dry. Excellent weather durability and arc resistance. Used for electrical equipment, instruments and switchgear.7815Black Gloss Alkyd (Brush/Spray/Dip). Bake or Air dry. Designed as a finish coat on end windings and electrical equipment. Excellent oil, humidity and weather resistance.8238ASA #49 Gray Medium Gloss Vinyl Alkyd (Spray) Ready-to-Spray. Air dry. Designed for motors and equipment in the motor repair industry. Used for transformers, machines, switchgear and other electrical apparatus.8239ASA#61 Gray. Properties are the same as 8238 but in a #61 Gray.8240Forest Green. Properties are the same as 8238 but in a Forest Green.G788Light Gray Gloss Enamel ASA #70 (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for finishing apparatus to be stored or operated outdoors. Equally suitable for interior use. May be used on metal or wood.G1228
(Aerosol Avail. 1228A)Dark Gray Gloss Enamel ASA #49 (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for general finishing of machinery and electrical apparatus. Has excellent outdoor durability and high resistance to transformer oils. May be used on metal or wood.G6332Dark Green Gloss Enamel (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for finishing apparatus to be stored or operated outdoors. Equally suitable for interior use. May be used on metal or wood.G3415Medium Gray Gloss Enamel ASA #61 (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for general finishing of machinery and electrical apparatus. Has excellent outdoor durability and high resistance to transformer oils. May be used on metal or wood.Industrial Primers-Waterborne

C1815BBeige Waterborne Alkyd Primer (Spray). Air dry. Designed for single coat application on components subject to exterior exposure. C1815B is formulated to contain a minimum level of trace elements and is recommended for use in atomic power installations. Chemical Resistant Coatings

74121Red Catalyst Curing Epoxy 74010 hardener required. Air-drying epoxy enamel designed to give maximum durability and a high degree of chemical resistance Used on oil reservoirs, heavy machinery, industrial equipment, interior walls, metal partitions, and laboratory areas This product is ideally suited for all interior surfaces where maximum durability is desired and is rated as Class F High Temperature Coatings

1212Aluminum Gloss Alkyd Enamel (Brush/Spray). Air dry or bake. It is 1202 Glyptal varnish furnished with an aluminum paste in a two compartment container for on-the-job mixing. 1212 is suggested for finishing equipment which must stand prolonged temperatures of up to 400F It is ideally suited for the painting of steam lines, ovens, structural iron, wire fencing and exterior piping86009Aluminum Low Gloss Silicone (Spray/Bake). A ready mixed aluminum silicone resin product designed for high temperature applications. It provides durable protective coating on metal surfaces subjected to temperatures 400F-1200F. 86009 is suggested as a finish for ovens, jet engines and other metal surfaces needing protection during high temperature exposure. Optimum results are obtained by applying multiple thin coats (0.2-0.5 mil).S1193Class A & B Gray Silicone Epoxy Finish (Spray/Bake). Applications include ovens, protective finishes on jet engine components(meets GE Aircraft Engine specification number F50TF3-53) aircraft and marine surfaces, solar energy systems and high temperature automotive components. The coatings may be applied to aluminum, magnesium or steel.S1194Class A & B Clear Silicone Epoxy Finish (Spray/Bake). Clear version of the S1193. S1300Class A & B White Silicone Epoxy Finish (Spray/Bake). White version of the S1193.S1195Class D Resinous Reducer. Used for S1193, S1194 and S1300 Silicone epoxy.Low VOC options are avaialable upon request for most products [email protected]




Glyptal

305 Eastern Ave
Chelsea, MA 02150
(800)GLP-1201
[email protected]




ensive use in electronics. I suppose a machine could be painted with the right formula
 
Just finished refurbishing the ELSR gearbox. The paint I chose for the inside is the same I used on the outside...rattle can! :eek:

Couldn’t wait to try it out.

And after making a new key & shaft, and adding another bronze bushing, it works 40% better than before! :dunce:
 
Just finished refurbishing the ELSR gearbox. The paint I chose for the inside is the same I used on the outside...rattle can! :eek:

Couldn’t wait to try it out.

I wont tell anyone.


And after making a new key & shaft, and adding another bronze bushing, it works 40% better than before! :dunce:

I think that's the product to seal/line old fuel tanks in tractors and vintage cars.
I don't think ill paint my lathe with it. Outside anyway. Gearbox if needed



This may make a durable lathe paint. It doesn't mention oil.
[h=4]Industrial Topcoats-Solventborne[/h]
1559 White Gloss Alkyd Nitrocellulose Lacquer (Spray/Dip). Air dry. Custom finish for industrial products. Suitable for hospital and kitchen equipment. Good exterior durability with excellent gloss and color retention.
 
Way way back when I worked for a company that made reduction gears for opening large valves all the ones for critical use used Glyptal to coat the inside surfaces. It was often specified by the customer so it must have stood up well.

Way way back when I worked at an automotive machine shop, the dragster and tractor pull guys always wanted their crankcase coated in Glyptal, the thought was the oil would run back to pan quicker.
 








 
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