Paint Thats Used in Gearboxes.
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    Lightbulb Paint Thats Used in Gearboxes.

    What is a paint or epoxy that is used in gearboxes. Does it hold up so well because it's untouched by tools and chips or is it a durable epoxy coating.
    I'm also thinking about the chip pan. I considered truck bed liner for just the inside of the chip pan. Looking for that majic indistructable paint!
    My reason for asking about the gearbox paint is its made to hold up in oil. It always seems to hold up well.
    When the 10ee comes home I will pull the saddle ,apron and remove the cross slide and compound too clean and assure that the oil passages are clear and replace the wipers. Tailstock also.
    I don't want too turn it into a project lathe but not knowing the history I see it as preventative maintenance. It's Texasgunsmith's fault from watching his 61 series thread. Actually a good thing. It's a lot more work to repair or replace worn out parts from running dry.
    Oil must flow!
    I tend to over oil. The guy that came up with that foaming action with PB Blaster made his company wealthy. You think its soaking in so you give it one more squirt. Then wipe it off of the floor.
    Back too paint. With the removal of all the parts on the ways its a good time too repaint.
    Its friggin ugly!gggff.jpgSilver green.
    The repaint will be the last. When the usual areas wear off that's fine. Its a lathe.

    I know , not another paint thread. Advise. Remove all the paint and oil it down. All natural.
    Thanks Mike

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    This is what I did and still hard after almost 20 years.Gearbox rebuild

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    I know glyptal will hold up to being submerged in oil, can't say I would use it for a paint on main machine though. I would think a 2 part epoxy would hold up to oil, but might work best on a new cast iron gearbox vs an oil soaked cast iron gearbox.

    The no paint, natural cast iron look is hideous in my opinion

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    I can't vouch for inside a closed gear box. But externally I like oil based enamel, and it has worked for me. Particularly high gloss enamel.

    I scrub external areas with mineral spirits to removed oil. When its dry, and I believe I'm clean enough for paint, I then wipe down with paint thinner.

    Both mineral spirits and paint thinner dry pretty fast.

    In a few minutes, after thinner dries. I prime.

    I give 12-24 hours for primer to cure.

    I fine grit, light sand, primed surface. Then wipe dust off.

    Then I paint. I give a bare minimum of two days before I touch or allow oils and such. If I can help it, I love to let it sit 3 to 5 days. In one day it feels dry, but those extra days it really hardens and cures.

    After that time period I can dump all the oil I want on it, no problem.

    If I missed a spot of oil during clean up, the paint will be slightly sticky on that spot, or slightly discolored. I wipe that spot good, removing the paint just in that area with mineral spirits. Let it dry, repaint that one small spot.

    Its worked for me and I've had oil lay on areas for long periods.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    I know glyptal will hold up to being submerged in oil, can't say I would use it for a paint on main machine though. I would think a 2 part epoxy would hold up to oil, but might work best on a new cast iron gearbox vs an oil soaked cast iron gearbox. The no paint, natural cast iron look is hideous in my opinion
    I like paint vs bare. Especially when most machine castings are so rough and filled with Bondo type material to be smooth.I use a hardener in industrial enamel for tractors. It's pretty good. The automotive epoxy's are probably best for durability. I have never tried using them on an industrial machine.I'll be the only user. I brought the end covers home and got the urge to get started. Thanks Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    I can't vouch for inside a closed gear box. But externally I like oil based enamel, and it has worked for me. Particularly high gloss enamel.

    I scrub external areas with mineral spirits to removed oil. When its dry, and I believe I'm clean enough for paint, I then wipe down with paint thinner.




    Both mineral spirits and paint thinner dry pretty fast.

    In a few minutes, after thinner dries. I prime.

    I give 12-24 hours for primer to cure.

    I fine grit, light sand, primed surface. Then wipe dust off.

    Then I paint. I give a bare minimum of two days before I touch or allow oils and such. If I can help it, I love to let it sit 3 to 5 days. In one day it feels dry, but those extra days it really hardens and cures.

    After that time period I can dump all the oil I want on it, no problem.

    If I missed a spot of oil during clean up, the paint will be slightly sticky on that spot, or slightly discolored. I wipe that spot good, removing the paint just in that area with mineral spirits. Let it dry, repaint that one small spot.

    Its worked for me and I've had oil lay on areas for long periods.
    Your paint looks great. That's similar to my tractor painting procedure I use enamel on them.
    . I guess I may try an Epoxy this time. I don't always paint on my machines and don't always take the same prep time as with a tractor. Good preparation is everything .I painted cars for a while in the early 80's. The products have all changed .It was Acrylic enamel back then.
    I don't keep up with new paint products..

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    Way way back when I worked for a company that made reduction gears for opening large valves all the ones for critical use used Glyptal to coat the inside surfaces. It was often specified by the customer so it must have stood up well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottl View Post
    Way way back when I worked for a company that made reduction gears for opening large valves all the ones for critical use used Glyptal to coat the inside surfaces. It was often specified by the customer so it must have stood up well.

    Well it covers a huge line of uses and formulas. Even in high gloss topcoats. Its alkyd based.
    EDIT
    WAIT ALL THOSE PRODUCTS ARE NOT GLYPTAL COATINGS [COMPANY NAME] ??







    Ext
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    (617)884-6918
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    Insulating Coatings

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    (Aerosol Avail. 1201A)Red Alkyd (Brush/Spray/Dip). Bake or air dry. Meets MIL-E22118; used for coils, armatures and other electrical apparatus. Also used as a primer, sealer for screws, pipes, vacuum systems and hydraulic fluid chambers.1201
    Light Blue
    Light Blue version of the 1201. Bake or air dry. Meets MIL-E22118; used for coils, armatures and other electrical apparatus. Also used as a primer, sealer for screws, pipes, vacuum systems and hydraulic fluid chambers. 1201
    White
    White version of the 1201. Bake or air dry. Meets MIL-E22118; used for coils, armatures and other electrical apparatus. Also used as a primer, sealer for screws, pipes, vacuum systems and hydraulic fluid chambers. 1201BRed Alkyd (Brush/Spray/Dip. Bake or Air dry . Higher solid, higher viscosity version of 1201.1209Gloss Black Alkyd (Brush/Spray). Bake or air dry. Use on small motor stators, field coils, end windings, bus bars and switch bases. Also used as finishing coat on electrical equipment for interior exposure. 74004Buff Catalyst Curing Epoxy. 74010 hardener required. Designed to give maximum durability and resistance; used on industrial equipment exposed to oils, coolants and other corrosive agents; frequently used on large end windings.74004
    red
    Red version of the 74004 74010 hardener required. Designed to give maximum durability and resistance; used on industrial equipment exposed to oils, coolants and other corrosive agents; frequently used on large end windings.7815Gloss Black Alkyd (Brush/Spray). Bake or air dry. Used as a finishing coat on end windings and as finish coat on electrical apparatus where resistance to oil, humidity and weather is required.C1149ASA49 Gray Version of 74004. 74010 hardener required.CE237Black Alkyd (Spray/Dip). Bake or air dry. An offset to the 7815 with improved arc resistance. Designed for finishing motor end windings for oil and chemical resistance.CE387Blue Epoxy (Brush/Spray). Air dry. 74010 hardener required. Designed for heavy duty resistance to oil, coolants, corrosive agents to give maximum durability and chemical resistance. Used on heavy machinery, industrial equipment, interior walls, metal partitions, and laboratory areas.Insulating Varnishes

    1202Clear General Purpose Insulating and Finishing Alkyd Varnish. Air dry. Excellent heat resistance. Up to 145C on non flexing equipment. Although primarily an air-drying varnish, the oil, moisture, acid, and salt water resistance are greatly improved by baking9620Clear Insulating and Finishing Varnish. Air dry. Excellent oil, moisture and acid resistance. Up to 130C on non flexing equipment. Although primarily an air-drying varnish, the oil, moisture, acid, and salt water resistance are greatly improved by baking.Semi-Conductive Coatings

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    (Aerosol Avail. 1228A)Dark Gray Gloss Enamel ASA #49 (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for general finishing of machinery and electrical apparatus. Has excellent outdoor durability and high resistance to transformer oils. May be used on metal or wood.G6332Dark Green Gloss Enamel (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for finishing apparatus to be stored or operated outdoors. Equally suitable for interior use. May be used on metal or wood.G3415Medium Gray Gloss Enamel ASA #61 (Brush/Spray) Air Dry. A durable enamel for general finishing of machinery and electrical apparatus. Has excellent outdoor durability and high resistance to transformer oils. May be used on metal or wood.Industrial Primers-Waterborne

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    1212Aluminum Gloss Alkyd Enamel (Brush/Spray). Air dry or bake. It is 1202 Glyptal varnish furnished with an aluminum paste in a two compartment container for on-the-job mixing. 1212 is suggested for finishing equipment which must stand prolonged temperatures of up to 400F It is ideally suited for the painting of steam lines, ovens, structural iron, wire fencing and exterior piping86009Aluminum Low Gloss Silicone (Spray/Bake). A ready mixed aluminum silicone resin product designed for high temperature applications. It provides durable protective coating on metal surfaces subjected to temperatures 400F-1200F. 86009 is suggested as a finish for ovens, jet engines and other metal surfaces needing protection during high temperature exposure. Optimum results are obtained by applying multiple thin coats (0.2-0.5 mil).S1193Class A & B Gray Silicone Epoxy Finish (Spray/Bake). Applications include ovens, protective finishes on jet engine components(meets GE Aircraft Engine specification number F50TF3-53) aircraft and marine surfaces, solar energy systems and high temperature automotive components. The coatings may be applied to aluminum, magnesium or steel.S1194Class A & B Clear Silicone Epoxy Finish (Spray/Bake). Clear version of the S1193. S1300Class A & B White Silicone Epoxy Finish (Spray/Bake). White version of the S1193.S1195Class D Resinous Reducer. Used for S1193, S1194 and S1300 Silicone epoxy.Low VOC options are avaialable upon request for most products [email protected]





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    ensive use in electronics. I suppose a machine could be painted with the right formula

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    Quote Originally Posted by mllud22 View Post
    What is a paint or epoxy that is used in gearboxes. Does it hold up so well because it's untouched by tools and chips or is it a durable epoxy coating.
    Gearboxes, mining machines, steam, gasoline, and Diesel engine guts. Sealing casting porosity...

    Might have been discovered by some sort of "accident" but it surely turned out to be a fortuitous accident, if so:

    General Electric Company's lab-developed original Red Glyptal.

    Ugly, maybe, but it JF works. Period.

    Besides... at what they get for a quart?

    I'm happy to find more use for it than just protecting electric motor windings!

    Allegedly, it is just one more ignorant alkhyd.

    Allegedly may have been deceived?

    Tough stuff! VERY!

    Also easy to work with. Single-component. Likes thin coats, thinned with Xylol/Xylene, built-up.

    Paint yer gearbox innards with Glyptal.

    Take yer best lady to a nicer place for dinner out.

    No one needs to know Glyptal is ugly.

    Works for me.

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    Just finished refurbishing the ELSR gearbox. The paint I chose for the inside is the same I used on the outside...rattle can!

    Couldn’t wait to try it out.

    And after making a new key & shaft, and adding another bronze bushing, it works 40% better than before!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldCar View Post
    Just finished refurbishing the ELSR gearbox. The paint I chose for the inside is the same I used on the outside...rattle can!

    Couldn’t wait to try it out.

    I wont tell anyone.


    And after making a new key & shaft, and adding another bronze bushing, it works 40% better than before!
    I think that's the product to seal/line old fuel tanks in tractors and vintage cars.
    I don't think ill paint my lathe with it. Outside anyway. Gearbox if needed



    This may make a durable lathe paint. It doesn't mention oil.
    Industrial Topcoats-Solventborne

    1559 White Gloss Alkyd Nitrocellulose Lacquer (Spray/Dip). Air dry. Custom finish for industrial products. Suitable for hospital and kitchen equipment. Good exterior durability with excellent gloss and color retention.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldCar View Post
    Just finished refurbishing the ELSR gearbox. The paint I chose for the inside is the same I used on the outside...rattle can!

    Couldn’t wait to try it out.

    And after making a new key & shaft, and adding another bronze bushing, it works 40% better than before!
    "Some people" ... go all religious-orgiastic. even frothing at the keyboard four-letter violent over ELSR - as if it were black magic fit only for use by the gods?

    It works OK.

    Claiming it is "magical" is simply lack of real-world experience. Take that pompous posturing with a grain of salt. Learn the ways of what you have. May not have "automagical" benefit. But with fewer surprises plus more realistic expectations, you surely CAN have "useful".

    The reality is that OTHER lathe makers already had a single-position engagement dog-clutch arrangement that actually works better.

    Hendey gets the kudos, US market. See trboatworks ... clocking a sweet multi-start thread on his Hendey Tool & Gage..., first time out.

    All over Europe, back when the US and the British Commonwealth were inch-based and major suppliers, globally, of all things industrial? Folks had to repair or make parts for both metric and imperial. Even more so than we do today, USA.

    Inch/metric lathe makers had the necessity of similar arrangements.
    MANY had much the same all-mechanical system as Hendey utilized.

    Cazeneuve's "special apron" took it a step beyond. But not all 40,000-plus HBX even HAD their "special apron". It's capable enough. Also seriously weird! DAMHIKT!



    Enjoy ELSR. It works better than it has any inherent right to work.

    That's partly because whatever it does, it tends to repeat doing, same hour, same work in progress.

    So it doesn't matter if it stops in the same place two weeks later, some other tasking. Or same-hour, different mass of workpiece.

    So long as THAT tasking also repeats well, first pass to last pass.

    If you have gotten "repeatability"? That's all there really is to it.
    A useful byproduct of the 10EE's drivetrain simplicity & predictabilty.

    Very handy feature. Nothing more than that. The rest is still on the shoulders of an alert operator. One who has not been "spoiled" by an even better "very Hendey feature".

    God runs a CNC VMC anyway. Surely didn't make the whole universe in 6 days on all-manual machinery?

    Why would she even care?


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    I use baked glyptal ( made by GE) over 200.00 a gal ordered from GE.nice red/org ...Phil

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottl View Post
    Way way back when I worked for a company that made reduction gears for opening large valves all the ones for critical use used Glyptal to coat the inside surfaces. It was often specified by the customer so it must have stood up well.
    Way way back when I worked at an automotive machine shop, the dragster and tractor pull guys always wanted their crankcase coated in Glyptal, the thought was the oil would run back to pan quicker.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil in Montana View Post
    I use baked glyptal ( made by GE) over 200.00 a gal ordered from GE.nice red/org ...Phil
    Might be able to buy a quart locally from a motor shop.

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