Picked up a nice 10EE in Los Angeles & will need some parts for the modular drive.
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  1. #1
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    Default Picked up a nice 10EE in Los Angeles & will need some parts for the modular drive.

    First, I need one Monarch timer, part number 50194. Is there a cross reference, or any for sale? IMS Supply has two used ones; any other leads?

    The module is also gone & I have ordered one from Scissio Controls.

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    Any pictures ?

    Hal

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    I have a 10 EE which I have Re motored with A VFD. I still have all the old parts
    and I am in Utah. PM me a phone # .
    Chris

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    Pics will stink until I can get to my computer.
    Here’s a preview :

    1ec2449d-7ad0-4812-a24f-ae59232957b9.jpg

    Mobile phone Flickr app won’t let me save bbc code, only the regular site.

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    If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

    Bill

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    I’m trying my best to study all of the old posts about modular drive EEs, since I am electrically challenged.
    So far I have a new C3J middle tube on its way ($12.00 because it was listed as a “C35” vacuum tube) and will check with CUT on parts here in Utah.

    I also have the Scissio module on order.

    Other than the drive, this lathe appears to be in excellent shape, with the options I have wanted.

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    Looks like a nice EE , I/M , ELSR . Are the dials I/M also ?

    50194 is that the part # or ser# ?
    Hal

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    Quote Originally Posted by 220swift View Post
    Looks like a nice EE , I/M , ELSR . Are the dials I/M also ?

    50194 is that the part # or ser# ?
    Hal
    That is the Monarch part number on the timer. The lathe serial number is 52046, and I was also thinking that part number sounded like a serial number!

    It does have the I/M dials also. I'm happy as a camper, but will have to get used to ELSR. I'm so used to using the spindle lever on the headstock.

    Here's some better pictures:
    [IMG]2A94A0DF-48F2-46D4-B993-7A91D651BD39 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]

    [IMG]DE48B28D-EA38-4991-BD55-6CC75D588662 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG] on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]8E12BE4C-3C5D-4949-AA59-B317C8DC5F3B by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

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    Quote Originally Posted by C.U.T. View Post
    I have a 10 EE which I have Re motored with A VFD. I still have all the old parts
    and I am in Utah. PM me a phone # .
    Chris
    Hopefully my PM made it to you.

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    Im confused? I thought that lathe was solid state? Seen it on line At the auction then on e-bay. No disconnect switch on the lower door, large Hoffman enclosure on back.
    Thought it was a 80's era lathe.
    Only seen photos of it never got a chance to look at it in person but it looks Really nice lathe though. Congratulations!!
    If you do need timers follow Bills advice the factory timers are troublesome.

    Ron

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldCar View Post
    First, I need one Monarch timer, part number 50194. Is there a cross reference, or any for sale? IMS Supply has two used ones; any other leads?

    The module is also gone & I have ordered one from Scissio Controls.
    Contact Home | Monarch Lathes they refurbish these lathes and should have replacement parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverarn View Post
    Im confused? I thought that lathe was solid state? Seen it on line At the auction then on e-bay. No disconnect switch on the lower door, large Hoffman enclosure on back.
    Thought it was a 80's era lathe.
    Only seen photos of it never got a chance to look at it in person but it looks Really nice lathe though. Congratulations!!
    If you do need timers follow Bills advice the factory timers are troublesome.

    Ron
    I hear you. Only after looking at many different online pictures & threads, I noticed from the serial number it might fit in the modular era. When it first was listed for sale, I asked them to send more pictures.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9100 View Post
    If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

    Bill
    Here's a picture of it (from another thread):

    [IMG]CDC76AE8-9485-4DD9-8FED-DB16338A4ABA by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

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    Nice lathe Old Car,

    I am kinda perplexed, I thought the machines with the red emblem were solid state drives? The ones that were 3 phase only with regen braking.

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal View Post
    Nice lathe Old Car,

    I am kinda perplexed, I thought the machines with the red emblem were solid state drives? The ones that were 3 phase only with regen braking.

    Steve
    Agree it seems "nice". Good for the future to get it out of harm's way as well.

    A lot can happen between OEM as-built date and present-day as to the electron-pushing, but not to worry.

    By this late-date, there are "wellsprings" of speciality expertise on getting any form of drive as is likely to exist into working order. Even if it has a 3rd party mod not YET seen for our first time!

    After all...the collective "we" have gotten rather GOOD at this, "no 10EE left behind" - certainly not as merely "wounded", n'er to be left abandoned on the field of battle by it's brethren in arms!

    "Chips"... will be made.... again!



    TD relays: Air and oil "dashpot" technology are oblivious to switching spikes. Solid-State are only "supposed to be".

    Spring mechanisms are for cuckoo's. The "let us pretend we are, if only, briefly" alleged "clock shaped objects". Well fake bird houses, actually. Time keeping ain't half bad for a miniature fake house.
    Last edited by thermite; 06-29-2020 at 06:50 PM.

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    If you can't find a timer, you might try Monarch. Talk to Scott.
    Monarch sometimes will have used parts on hand.
    If you get the as built manual for your machine, if you ask for, Monarch will also provide parts diagrams, standard size or in larged if needed. Very helpful when needed.

    Hal

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9100 View Post
    If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

    Yes, I would like that part number. Thank you!

    Bill
    Yes, please!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9100 View Post
    If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

    Bill
    Can you post the part # for everyone, in case my timer fail on my EE.

    Hal

  25. #19
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    Here's what the electrical panel looks like inside. I spent some time visually inspecting, and then started testing & marking wires. Didn't get far before I noticed L1 & L3 have zero resistance between them?????

    It's that way before and after the missing motor starter and down at the giant transformer. Hopefully the motor isn't shorted??? I'm no electrician, but surely this cannot be right.

    [IMG]BB6E23F3-587E-472F-98BD-6EA5E9A08DC8 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Also, any idea if/why these wires in the below picture should be cut like this? Or what they went to?

    [IMG]2B632EEB-5325-4B46-929A-8EA214610FE3 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Better picture of the wires:

    [IMG]FD54E610-D25B-4597-9D2F-4793F6014FAC by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldCar View Post
    Here's what the electrical panel looks like inside. I spent some time visually inspecting, and then started testing & marking wires. Didn't get far before I noticed L1 & L3 have zero resistance between them?????

    It's that way before and after the missing motor starter and down at the giant transformer. Hopefully the motor isn't shorted??? I'm no electrician, but surely this cannot be right.

    [IMG]BB6E23F3-587E-472F-98BD-6EA5E9A08DC8 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Also, any idea if/why these wires in the below picture should be cut like this? Or what they went to?

    [IMG]2B632EEB-5325-4B46-929A-8EA214610FE3 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Better picture of the wires:

    [IMG]FD54E610-D25B-4597-9D2F-4793F6014FAC by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Motors and Transformers have a very low resistance even though they are not shorted also the spindle motor is DC and not connected to the AC line.


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