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Picked up a nice 10EE in Los Angeles & will need some parts for the modular drive.

TheOldCar

Stainless
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Location
Utah, USA
Picked up a nice 10EE in Los Angeles & will need some parts for the modular drive.

First, I need one Monarch timer, part number 50194. Is there a cross reference, or any for sale? IMS Supply has two used ones; any other leads?

The module is also gone & I have ordered one from Scissio Controls.
 
I have a 10 EE which I have Re motored with A VFD. I still have all the old parts
and I am in Utah. PM me a phone # .
Chris
 
Pics will stink until I can get to my computer.
Here’s a preview :D :

1EC2449D-7AD0-4812-A24F-AE59232957B9.jpg

Mobile phone Flickr app won’t let me save bbc code, only the regular site.
 
If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

Bill
 
I’m trying my best to study all of the old posts about modular drive EEs, since I am electrically challenged.
So far I have a new C3J middle tube on its way ($12.00 because it was listed as a “C35” vacuum tube) and will check with CUT on parts here in Utah.

I also have the Scissio module on order.

Other than the drive, this lathe appears to be in excellent shape, with the options I have wanted.
 
Looks like a nice EE , I/M , ELSR . Are the dials I/M also ?

50194 is that the part # or ser# ?
Hal

That is the Monarch part number on the timer. The lathe serial number is 52046, and I was also thinking that part number sounded like a serial number!

It does have the I/M dials also. I'm happy as a camper, but will have to get used to ELSR. I'm so used to using the spindle lever on the headstock.

Here's some better pictures:
50056771791_5383e05e1a_c.jpg
[/url]2A94A0DF-48F2-46D4-B993-7A91D651BD39 by

DE48B28D-EA38-4991-BD55-6CC75D588662 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG] on Flickr[/IMG]

50056246878_5d9236b316_c.jpg
[/url]8E12BE4C-3C5D-4949-AA59-B317C8DC5F3B by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Im confused? I thought that lathe was solid state? Seen it on line At the auction then on e-bay. No disconnect switch on the lower door, large Hoffman enclosure on back.
Thought it was a 80's era lathe.
Only seen photos of it never got a chance to look at it in person but it looks Really nice lathe though. Congratulations!!
If you do need timers follow Bills advice the factory timers are troublesome.

Ron
 
Im confused? I thought that lathe was solid state? Seen it on line At the auction then on e-bay. No disconnect switch on the lower door, large Hoffman enclosure on back.
Thought it was a 80's era lathe.
Only seen photos of it never got a chance to look at it in person but it looks Really nice lathe though. Congratulations!!
If you do need timers follow Bills advice the factory timers are troublesome.

Ron

I hear you. Only after looking at many different online pictures & threads, I noticed from the serial number it might fit in the modular era. When it first was listed for sale, I asked them to send more pictures.
 
If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

Bill

Here's a picture of it (from another thread):

50057156666_d7451ee810_c.jpg
[/url]CDC76AE8-9485-4DD9-8FED-DB16338A4ABA by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
If you can't find a timer, you might try Monarch. Talk to Scott.
Monarch sometimes will have used parts on hand.
If you get the as built manual for your machine, if you ask for, Monarch will also provide parts diagrams, standard size or in larged if needed. Very helpful when needed.

Hal
 
If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

Yes, I would like that part number. Thank you!

Bill

Yes, please!
 
If the timer you refer to is a mechanical one with a clock motor, you don't want it. They are terrible units, insanely priced and unreliable. One makes the delay for the thyratrons to warm up and the other holds the field voltage on after you switch the spindle off because it is needed for braking. We had one fail on and the headstock got so hot you couldn't put a hand on it. I replaced both with solid state units. I can give you a part number if you wish.

Bill
Can you post the part # for everyone, in case my timer fail on my EE.

Hal
 
Here's what the electrical panel looks like inside. I spent some time visually inspecting, and then started testing & marking wires. Didn't get far before I noticed L1 & L3 have zero resistance between them?????

It's that way before and after the missing motor starter and down at the giant transformer. Hopefully the motor isn't shorted??? I'm no electrician, but surely this cannot be right. :(

50060951062_8ca5a2d69a_c.jpg
[/url]BB6E23F3-587E-472F-98BD-6EA5E9A08DC8 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

Also, any idea if/why these wires in the below picture should be cut like this? Or what they went to?

50060705856_8e0d7044a4_c.jpg
[/url]2B632EEB-5325-4B46-929A-8EA214610FE3 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

Better picture of the wires:

50060142818_900e07bd12_c.jpg
[/url]FD54E610-D25B-4597-9D2F-4793F6014FAC by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Here's what the electrical panel looks like inside. I spent some time visually inspecting, and then started testing & marking wires. Didn't get far before I noticed L1 & L3 have zero resistance between them?????

It's that way before and after the missing motor starter and down at the giant transformer. Hopefully the motor isn't shorted??? I'm no electrician, but surely this cannot be right. :(

50060951062_8ca5a2d69a_c.jpg
[/url]BB6E23F3-587E-472F-98BD-6EA5E9A08DC8 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

Also, any idea if/why these wires in the below picture should be cut like this? Or what they went to?

50060705856_8e0d7044a4_c.jpg
[/url]2B632EEB-5325-4B46-929A-8EA214610FE3 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

Better picture of the wires:

50060142818_900e07bd12_c.jpg
[/url]FD54E610-D25B-4597-9D2F-4793F6014FAC by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
Motors and Transformers have a very low resistance even though they are not shorted also the spindle motor is DC and not connected to the AC line.
 
Motors and Transformers have a very low resistance even though they are not shorted also the spindle motor is DC and not connected to the AC line.

Even the power supply lines coming into the main disconnect read no resistance (well the continuity tester beeps anyway) between L1 & L2... isn’t that bad?
I apologize in advance for my lack of electrical knowledge.
 








 
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