Possible 1910 Monarch 14 x48 conehead lathe

John Bakker · Oct 8, 2020

I bought this partial lathe for $50. I was able to get it working, except for no power travel. To me the tailstock is a Monarch. The bed is the same as early model A's except the carriage travel rods are supported with a bracket that is bolted from the top down. The identification Numbers are stamped between the ways, looks like Lot No. 135 and machine No. 9.
Also does anyone have a photo of the threading brass tag from an early model A conehead without the quick change, I was thinking of trying to reproduce it.

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m-lud · Oct 8, 2020

John Bakker said:
I bought this partial lathe for $50. I was able to get it working, except for no power travel. To me the tailstock is a Monarch. The bed is the same as early model A's except the carriage travel rods are supported with a bracket that is bolted from the top down. The identification Numbers are stamped between the ways, looks like Lot No. 135 and machine No. 9.
Also does anyone have a photo of the threading brass tag from an early model A conehead without the quick change, I was thinking of trying to reproduce it.

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Now that's a example of making a effort to bring one back from near death. You could watch out for an original base. Although not needed.
I'm betting the steampunk crowd got the legs. Who came up with the term steampunk? Its overused on ebay
Nice work.

John Bakker · Oct 8, 2020

Here's a photo of the legs it used to have, to me they're Monarch

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John Bakker · Oct 9, 2020

The guy I bought the lathe from just wanted the legs for a decorative table, he paid $150, damned steampunk.
This is the brass tag that I want to make, even though I can't cut threads, it just looks good. I plan to cut a red decal outline and place it on a brass sheet, it won't be authentic, but nether is rest of the lathe. I have a decal cutter, so it won't be much work, I just need the information on the tag, as I can't make it out from this photo.

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John Bakker · Oct 9, 2020

Here is a photo of my lathe showing the four rivet holes that match the brass tag.

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John Bakker · Oct 9, 2020

This lathe must be a slightly later Monarch model than mine, it has the same headstock, but has the newer Monarch bed with the casting that supports the carriage travel rods. It also has the same tailstock and legs as mine.

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m-lud · Oct 9, 2020

John Bakker said:
This lathe must be a slightly later Monarch model than mine, it has the same headstock, but has the newer Monarch bed with the casting that supports the carriage travel rods. It also has the same tailstock and legs as mine.

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Finding another lathe close enough to interchange some of what your missing would be good.. What you have done shows some serious effort but there is a point that a stripped lathe is parts. You have something to turn metal and learn some. You will get the bug to improve what you have. What speeds can you run?
Looks like your ready to go.
Work with what you have made and keep your

eyes open for something complete

John Bakker · Oct 9, 2020

My speeds are approximately 34,49,70rpm on the back gear, and 200,288,413rpm no back gear. It runs great even at 413rpm.
Here in Canada complete lathes this size are $2000 if you can find them, the border is still closed, and I like the idea of saving a classic from being melted down. There doesn't seem to be many lathes this vintage that would use my parts. The tailstock is probably the only piece.
I don't have alot of need to cut threads, so it can still do alot of work, and I like a challenge.
The good thing is that everything I added is new and tight.

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m-lud · Oct 9, 2020

John Bakker said:
My speeds are approximately 34,49,70rpm on the back gear, and 200,288,413rpm no back gear. It runs great even at 413rpm.
Here in Canada complete lathes this size are $2000 if you can find them, the border is still closed, and I like the idea of saving a classic from being melted down. There doesn't seem to be many lathes this vintage that would use my parts. The tailstock is probably the only piece.
I don't have alot of need to cut threads, so it can still do alot of work, and I like a challenge.
The good thing is that everything I added is new and tight.

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I have read that lathe's are scarce up there. What you have done is impressive. In todays market down here prices are down in the U.S. I didnt notice where you lived. I also enjoy old iron and repairing it is satisfying.

Enjoy using it and making parts. Your wooden pullies look good . They work well for belt drive's
I don't understand closing the border. Probably safer for Canada that way. I live in a rural setting also so social distancing is normal for me.

texasgeartrain · Oct 9, 2020

Not Monarch, but might be close enough to make something happen:
South Bend 16 x 81" Lathe Cast Iron Legs | eBay

Supposed to be a SB16, but they must be pretty old, because SB16's were using a base on motor end since the early 1940's at least.

John Bakker · Oct 10, 2020

Thanks for the information on the legs. I'm kind of committed to the new legs, because I welded the motor support from them. The new legs certainly don't look as good as the original ones though.

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m-lud · Oct 10, 2020

I'm not a structural engineer by any means. The only thing that I see that could stiffen the base is to go across between the legs with another bar and end to end tying the legs together all the way around down lower. It could be lighter material.
It could be a place to support a chip pan.
The view from the rear shows some nice work on the drive end.

John Bakker · Oct 11, 2020

I was going to cross brace the legs, but I noticed that the legs have just enough flexibly to compensate for how level the concrete floor is, and the V isn't so wide that it tends to splay out. The original cast legs would need to be carefully leveled so as to not induce a twist in the bed. The extremely rigid old-world cast iron bed, supported by new world rolled steel, utilizes the best of both worlds I suppose, which to use your term is kind of "steampunk". I do like the idea of a chip tray, but I have a small chip tray between the ways and a removable piece of plywood on the floor, again it doesn't look great, but it is functional.
This picture shows what I think is the orientation of the feed gear that came with the lathe. The bracket that holds the gear looks like it had a handle that would have stuck out towards me in the photo. There is a broken out section on the bracket were the handle would have been.

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John Bakker · Oct 11, 2020

Something I found while looking into the old Monarch model A's is that the headstock spindle has a Jarno #12 taper, but mine appears to be #4 Morse. The spindle has a 2 1/4" - 6 thread instead of the 2 1/4" - 8.
I also noticed that the saddle clamp does not work, probably due to wear. I guess the original design was to flex the lower carriage plate up to contact the bed.
I was thinking of pocketing out the lower plate, and inserting a threaded 1/4" plate that the bolt will draw up to the underside of the bed.

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