What's new
What's new
By:
Advanced search…

Remove feed rod from output; 1946 10 ee?

feed-rod clutch disassembly

Hi Brett,

It looks like you have a square-dial 10EE?

There should be 4 screws on the left end, pointing towards the gearbox, that hold the hood in place. There is also a dowel pin that keeps it lined up. Here's a section of the clutch:

attachment.php


The screws are [123-7] and the dowel pin is [511-1].

see also:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php/feed-rod-drive-mismatch-196270.html

Cal
 
Cal, thanks, I see now. when i last looked it looked like those 4 screws were slotted? I hope they are socket head cap screws, either way, not too easy to get at.
Yes, my machine is a square dial.
Brett
 
I've encountered both slotted and SHCS at that joint. Either way you'll be making a short right angle tool to get at those screws. Recommend 6-32 x .38 SHCS for replacements when it goes back together.
 
Thanks, Yes they are slotted. I will make a tool...........that is a major pain! In order to service the Apron, this junction must be disassembled as the feed rod keyway does not go fully to the right so as to allow for apron to simply slide off to the right......argh!
Brett
 
I have a small right-angle screwdriver that came from either Sears or Ace Hardware that might do the trick. It's made from 5/32" hex stock bent into a Z-shape, with flats ground on each tip. It's a "Vaco" V01.

Cal
 
My original screws were also slotted. I made a right angle screw driver from an Allen wrench by cutting off the short leg to suit and grinding a flat blade into it. It took less than a minute.
 
Dave, and all, thanks for the help.

yeah, I just shortened a 1/4 hex flat head screw bit and wedged it in place with a large screwdriver and turned with 1/4" wrench......Worked perfectly and nearly as fast as Dave, but not quite. My "whining" was not oriented at the actual difficulty at doing this, just that it is one of the few things on these lathes that doesn't lend itself to easy service.
Brett
 
I have cleaned the feed rod and clutch parts from my 1950 "basket case" square dial 10EE (S/N 33309) and am ready to re-assemble it. However, I find that I am missing the plunger (EE-3631) shown in Cal's diagram above.

Since I was not the one who disassembled it, I don't know if it originally had one or not. It certainly isn't in the box of random parts that came with the lathe.

Does anyone have a spare plunger they can sell me? I would happily order one from Monarch, but would run up against their minimum order policy.

Failing that, could someone post the dimensions and material so I can make one?

Just as a side note, I am replacing the slotted screws with socket head cap screws, just to make is easier to work on for some future owner.

Another hint: Judging from the marks on the clutch housing, it looks like someone had a lot of trouble getting it apart. My suggestion is to temporarily install four screws (SHCS) that are slightly longer than the originals, making sure they bottom out but leave the head sticking out of the recess. Then you can tap on the projecting screw heads, rather than trying to stick a screwdriver between the housing (EE-3632) and cover (EE-3634).

Thanks,
Alan
 
Ya know, I should know better, but I don't remember a plunger cap either. Just a spring. Hmmm. But I ain't gonna take it apart to check though. I know it works correctly and that's good enough for me.
 
CowDriver said:
Does anyone have a spare plunger they can sell me? I would happily order one from Monarch, but would run up against their minimum order policy.
Click to expand...

I've got one, or had it. PM me a reminder and I'll rummage for it, I'm not in the shop right now.

OK, found it. Rough dims are 3/4" long, .800 diameter with a .620 dia flat bottom recess 3/8" deep on the flat end, the other end rounded. There are a couple breather holes drilled through the recess to the domed face.
 
Last edited:
rke[pler said:
I've got one, or had it. PM me a reminder and I'll rummage for it, I'm not in the shop right now.

OK, found it. Rough dims are 3/4" long, .800 diameter with a .620 dia flat bottom recess 3/8" deep on the flat end, the other end rounded. There are a couple breather holes drilled through the recess to the domed face.
Click to expand...

PM sent. What is the material, brass or steel?
 
You won't find brass working parts anywhere inside a 10EE. Anything of that yellowish/copperish color you encounter in a Monarch of any kind is bronze, a different and far more mechanically capable alloy system than brass. This excludes components Monarch didn't manufacture such as motors.

The original part inside clutches I've seen was steel, never tested one so don't have any information about hardness, etc. It's not a high duty component so not a real material challenge.

If I needed to replace that missing part it would be made of 4130PH and forgotten about for the rest of my life. And the life of the machine.
 
CowDriver said:
PM sent. What is the material, brass or steel?
Click to expand...

The original and the replacement I got from Monarch (before I knew what it was) are both bronze. This is anything except a wear part - all it does is to capture the spring on one end and apply the force to the end of the feed rod. Bronze + lives in grease + only wearing when the clutch is engaged = very long life.
 
Re-visiting this old thread.

I have removed the 4 cap screws but I'm still unable to separate the hood. I've tried putting the screws back in partially then putting pressure on the heads, but no luck. Anyone have a suggestion? thanks,

jdub
 
So, I was able to remove it by adding some gorilla tape to the tailstock end of the feed rod, then using the carriage to pull it out. Mechanical advantage is a wonderful thing :)
 
Jdub63 said:
Re-visiting this old thread.

I have removed the 4 cap screws but I'm still unable to separate the hood. I've tried putting the screws back in partially then putting pressure on the heads, but no luck. Anyone have a suggestion? thanks,

jdub
Click to expand...

I'd try putting a clamp on the feed rod on the other end of the lathe and tapping on it with a small hammer. Use something so you don't mar the rod and make it catch on the worm key. It shouldn't take much to pull it. If you have the stop that the apron engages you might try tapping on that with a brass or lead hammer.
 
My 49 mfg lathe has a taper pin in the boss at the left end of the feed rod coupling, no need to unscrew the four screws to remove the assembly still attached to the feed rod.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Monarch AA Feed Rod
Replies
2
Views
116
CamKong
C
A
10ee apron to feed rod/leadscrew measurement
Replies
6
Views
419
amaranth
A
6
Axelson 18x45 feed rod and sliding bevel pinion drive key.
Replies
9
Views
562
68Rivett
6
N
Lifting a Monarch Series 61, 54" C2C
Replies
6
Views
399
jlegge
J
C
Monarch AA feed rod
Replies
2
Views
124
cheapskate
C








 

ABOUT PRACTICAL MACHINIST

With more than 10.6 million unique visitors over the last year, Practical Machinist is the most visited site for metalworking professionals. Practical Machinist is the easiest way to learn new techniques, get answers quickly and discuss common challenges with your peers. Register for the world’s largest manufacturing technology forum for free today to stay in the know.

Learn more about us.

STAY CONNECTED

Facebook Instagram YouTube LinkedIn Pinterest Twitter Tiktok

Register Become a forum member. Register today.

Sign Up Sign up for our e-newsletter.

© 2024 Copyright Practicalmachinist.com. All Rights reserved.

Back
Top