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Replacing broken 10EE fwd/rev clutch fork: headstock removal necessary?

focusrsh

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
I bought a 1942 EE10 knowing that the spindle clutch fork in the headstock was broken. I've been getting my feet wet rebuilding this lathe by first doing the carriage and apron. Those are done and I can't put it off any longer. Time to get inside the headstock!

I think the entire headstock has to come off in order to get to that clutch fork. Or can I get to it by only (ha-ha!) removing the spindle? The clutch fork is part #61 in the headstock parts drawing. I honestly don't how it moves. It connects to something, presumably part #57, the "spindle clutch fork rack", but I can't see any of those bits with the spindle in the way.

I should add that I got a good condition used clutch fork from Monarch for $150.

If the headstock does have to come off, any idea on where to start?

By the way, I searched this form for "headstock" and got 60 PAGES of thread reference, and looked through 40 of them before my eyes glazed over and I decided just to ask this question directly.

Thanks in advance,
Carl D.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Head stock removal to replace the fork NO. If the parts are there to mount the fork to no removal of the spindle either.
 
Well, OK, you've said that HS and spindle don't have to come out. Now how about saying how to actually do it?
 
I bought a 1942 EE10 knowing that the spindle clutch fork in the headstock was broken. I've been getting my feet wet rebuilding this lathe by first doing the carriage and apron. Those are done and I can't put it off any longer. Time to get inside the headstock!

I think the entire headstock has to come off in order to get to that clutch fork. Or can I get to it by only (ha-ha!) removing the spindle? The clutch fork is part #61 in the headstock parts drawing. I honestly don't how it moves. It connects to something, presumably part #57, the "spindle clutch fork rack", but I can't see any of those bits with the spindle in the way.

I should add that I got a good condition used clutch fork from Monarch for $150.

If the headstock does have to come off, any idea on where to start?

By the way, I searched this form for "headstock" and got 60 PAGES of thread reference, and looked through 40 of them before my eyes glazed over and I decided just to ask this question directly.

Thanks in advance,
Carl D.

I struggle with the site's native search engine. I usually start with google first and it points me back here :)
 
Well, OK, you've said that HS and spindle don't have to come out. Now how about saying how to actually do it?
My memory is incorrect you do have to remove the spindle to get to the parts to change the fork as I did mine 4 years ago. I purchased a 10EE that the clutch dog and fork were missing so I had to remove the spindle to put the clutch dog on. You need to Google removing 10EE spindle there are several got-you's in doing that chore there are several hits read them ALL.
 
Something has gone wrong with the website thread and Cal's last recommendations were removed.

Anyway, he suggested I purchase a bearing spreader to put around the collect closer, clinch a piece of pipe in the chuck, and then fab a puller. I did all that as shown here:
IMG_6152.jpg
Tightening the threaded bolts only resulted in the pipe sliding out of the check jaws on the other end, no matter how tight I made them. The collet closer didn't budge.

Next, I tried the reverse. I loosened the pip in the jaw and smacked it from that end, thinking to drive the closer off the spindle. I didn't want to hit it too hard because I don't want to damage the spindle bearings. Again, no success.

Up today is to use the two bearing clamp bolts to push against the pulley and try to pull it off. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to put a torch on the closer and see if heat helps. I wonder if it was put on with Loctite?

By the way, the two setscrews on the closer are out and I've been regularly hitting it with Blaster.
 
Using the bearing spread Cal recommended did the trick. Spindle is now out. With it out of the way, the clutch fork can be easily accessed.
So, answering my original question to this thread, YES, the spindle needs to come out.
 








 
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