Request for pictures of a 10ee properly secured to a trailer.
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  1. #1
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    Default Request for pictures of a 10ee properly secured to a trailer.

    I'm going to help a friend move a 10ee this week. We've searched the forum and YouTube and found lots of information on lifting and moving them around, but very little on securing one to a trailer. If anyone has pictures or other info on the way to do this properly, I'd greatly appreciate seeing them

    Thanks.

    Jerry


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    Quote Originally Posted by jerholz View Post
    I'm going to help a friend move a 10ee this week. We've searched the forum and YouTube and found lots of information on lifting and moving them around, but very little on securing one to a trailer. If anyone has pictures or other info on the way to do this properly, I'd greatly appreciate seeing them

    Thanks.

    Jerry


    Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

    Not really enough information.
    Trailer type?
    What are you fastening straps/chains to?Generally do straps pulling in opposition.
    I would use rags under straps or chains to prevent marking/scraping.

    Here’s my 10EE when it arrived on a conestoga truck, with chain binders:



    Another view:

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    Thanks for those. It's going to be a drop bed from Sunbelt. We have a few options on what to secure it with. Just trying to see what works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jerholz View Post
    Thanks for those. It's going to be a drop bed from Sunbelt. We have a few options on what to secure it with. Just trying to see what works.

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    Heavy ratchet straps are relatively inexpensive.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/27-ft-x-...0903/312969420

    Drop deck trailers are great for moving lighter machines like the 10EE and Bridgeports/knee mills.

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    I've used rollback wreckers to move bridgeport, hardinge lathe, Milltronics VMC, overhad sander, etc. Just need to bolt machine on skids or heavy pallet usable with a pallet jack, pick it up an inch with a pallet-jack, use the heavyduty winch on the wrecker to pull it up. Reverse process for offloading. The nice thing about that process is you never have to pick the machine up over an inch. The rollback wreckers are also handy because they can adjust to varied dock and trailer heights, have proper holddowns, etc. The bed can extend right into a garage door. Just need to be aware of the center-of-gravity position for the tilt of the trailer (e.g. lathe parallel to the bed, and headstock to the cab). $100-150 is well worth it.

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    You should secure all of the doors. Some are not on hinges and could fall
    off and be lost. Be sure to clamp the tail stock. Also you want to use
    a tarp in case of rain or just general road dirt.

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  9. #7
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    Here is mine on a no ramp trailer from sunbelt. I also made sure to take the back covers and tailstock off and put them in the truck bed. Also make sure to charge the battery. Those little solar panels don’t seem to charge them enough.

    For strapping the lathe down I just used all the D-rings / cut outs and strapped it under the bed. Might have gone a bit over kill on the straps but it’d rather have more straps than a 10ee sitting on the side of the road. I really really like the Home Depot ratchet straps and they are only about $8 each. I also locked the carriage and strapped it to the bed. Make sure to secure anything that has the possibility of moving around and take everything off that you can.

    I loaded this one with a pallet jack and harbor freight come alongs. I took the trailer off the truck and lowered it as far as possible and winched it up the ramp. I put a 1/4” piece of metal plate on the front forks of the pallet jack to stabilize it and ratchet strapped it to the pallet jack. Worked very well and I have since used this same method for other machines.

    7522a4ae-8a9b-4b98-8dbc-b6bf2c0459e8.jpg

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    Here is how I did mine. Drove it home 430 miles away. I checked the straps in gradual increments. First few miles, then about half hour, then hour, then couple hours.

    Make sure you have it sitting on wood, no steel on steel.
    4ef61be7-7479-4d39-b937-f8cf9e77dea7.jpg

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    I was a little paranoid, it was the most expensive machine I had bought to that point...so....

    I took off the end covers and wrapped them in movers blankets. I removed the C16Js and bubble wrapped them.



    Moved using the Uhaul "RO" double axle open trailer, ~600 miles.



    The machine is bolted to 4x6 timbers cut close to the trailer width to prevent side-shifting. Bolted to timbers using the leveling-foot thru holes in the casting. Various other timbers to prevent it from sliding forward in case of hard braking. The chain under the headstock I believe is cushioned by some old bathmats. I believe there's also a 1" ratchet strap wrapped around the tailstock base so it can't unexpectedly slide off.



    The tarp is to prevent rain (and on the next move, road salt spray I was not anticipating). Just used a 1" ratchet strap like a belt.

    Lifted out nice and easy with the gantry.





    Collet nose, collet tube, chucks, tool post all went in the cage with me.

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    Matt looks like you did a great job.

    Hal

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    No pictures and not a 10EE.
    I hauled both a Monarch 12 CK and a 15"x42 Leblond Dual Drive on one trailer load. I used 6x6 wood blocks on top/ between the ways and 2 chains and binders on each machine - one forward, one aft. Bound them down Hard with a 3' cheater pipe.
    Piece of cake.

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    Thanks all. We're going to get it tomorrow. I'll take some pictures.

    Jerry


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    Well, made it to the floor of his garage. It's still on the pallet. Here's how we did it.

    Seller was a pretty capable rigger. Sunbelt didn't have the drop trailer.




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    While we were there, I bought a Wells bandsaw. It's a little rough but I got it pretty cheap.



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    So, this is Pharme's lathe. I'll try to talk him into starting his own thread on it with more pictures. It needs at least one of the big tubes, and I'm sure he'll have lots of questions for the group.



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    Couldn't resist a few more.

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    One more.

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