Restoration of Monarch 10EE Serial#26080 Delivered on 11/2/1944 to Buick - Page 10
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  1. #181
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    I found a feedstock gear on Ebay and it looked far better than mine so for $40 I bought it. I also ordered the gaskets from Monarch, two week lead time. Since I now have two weeks before I can re-assemble, I am going to take apart the feed shaft unit. (I wasn't originally). I can't get the key in the shaft to budge one iota so I tried to press the shaft out from the other side. That didn't work and then upon careful inspection, it appears there is a inner snap ring on that bearing.

    Inside bearing
    monarch_10ee_image_feedshaftgearendbearing.jpg

    Bearing housing
    monarch_10ee_image_feedshaftbearingshousing.jpg

    Are there any tricks to dis-assembly of this unit? or should just work on getting the key out of the shaft on that end and pressing the shaft out the other way (the key is out of the shaft on the other end)

  2. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    upon careful inspection, it appears there is a inner snap ring on that bearing.
    monarch_10ee_image_feedshaftgearendbearing.jpg
    Thats not what it looks like to me. Your picture appears to show a round snap ring in a groove in the housing, not a snap ring on the bearing. Its been more than a few years since I had this assembly apart on a round dial, so I may be wrong. Also, don't get me wrong, Monarch did use some angular contact bearings in the gearbox that have snap rings in a groove ground on the outside of the race. But not this bearing. This just looks like a typical round cross section snap ring, which Monarch uses everywhere. So use the same technique to remove it you would use elsewhere... Easie Piezie.

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  4. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    Thats not what it looks like to me. Your picture appears to show a round snap ring in a groove in the housing, not a snap ring on the bearing. Its been more than a few years since I had this assembly apart on a round dial, so I may be wrong. Also, don't get me wrong, Monarch did use some angular contact bearings in the gearbox that have snap rings in a groove ground on the outside of the race. But not this bearing. This just looks like a typical round cross section snap ring, which Monarch uses everywhere. So use the same technique to remove it you would use elsewhere... Easie Piezie.
    Dave,

    Once the shaft is out, yes I'm guessing the bearing will press out the other way BUT if I can't get the key out of the shaft end where this bearing is, this snap ring cannot be removed as there is no way to spread the ring and its not really a snap-ring as we know it today, it has no holes for the snap ring tools

  5. #184
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    Did you figure out the ELSR assembly yet? If you are missing any parts I could dismantle mine and take measurements.

    This is my one with the top off actually, last two pics on this page Monarch 10EE Lathe - Early Model

  6. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    ..this snap ring cannot be removed as there is no way to spread the ring and its not really a snap-ring as we know it today, it has no holes for the snap ring tools
    Damn. Sure wish you hadn't TOLD me that.

    Outta sheer ignorance, I've been takin' em out for right about 60 years.

    No fear.

    Done plenty of OTHER stuff was prolly gonna send me to Hell, anyway.


  7. #186
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    Thermite,

    Please explain to me how a snap ring in a groove in the interior of a housing that has no ears with holes and needs to expand outwards can be removed. And yes, sarcasm noted, but I’ve removed thousands of snap rings so I don’t ask out of ignorance.

  8. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    Dave,

    Once the shaft is out, yes I'm guessing the bearing will press out the other way BUT if I can't get the key out of the shaft end where this bearing is, this snap ring cannot be removed as there is no way to spread the ring and its not really a snap-ring as we know it today, it has no holes for the snap ring tools
    Incorrect you want to compress the RING to remove it with a sharp pointy pick.

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  10. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    Did you figure out the ELSR assembly yet? If you are missing any parts I could dismantle mine and take measurements.

    This is my one with the top off actually, last two pics on this page Monarch 10EE Lathe - Early Model
    I would love some pictures of the underside of the lever, showing the mechanism.

    No rush required, I am at least a week away from putting that back together and back on the machine.

    Thank you for the effort.

  11. #189
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    Default Tachometer gear

    I want to dis-assemble the tachometer to replace the needle which is bent/partially broken. There is a gear on the back of the tachometer shaft.

    monarch_10ee_image_headstockgears.jpg

    As I went to take this gear off, I really looked at the mechanism and frankly, I don't see why this gear is there. I can't see how this gear would mesh with any other gear in the headstock. How/why is this gear there and what is its purpose?

    Update to the above; I got out my snake camera and ran it in there. The shaft is splined and that meshes with the gear.

    Additionally, is there any specific order of steps to remove the tachometer assembly from the headstock
    and can I do so without removing the spindle?
    Last edited by dinotom; 05-03-2020 at 07:32 AM.

  12. #190
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    Default Re-wired the whole machine

    I had to replace some wires that were damaged and decided to replace all the wiring and redo the conduits, eliminating the annoying metal tubing Monarch used and replacing that with flexible gray conduit (the good stuff not smurf).

    DC Panel rewired
    monarch_10ee_image_dcpanelrewired.jpg

    Main Contactor Rewired
    monarch_10ee_image_contactorassemblyrewired.jpg

    These two white wires go to the green on button on the on/off button panel in the front of the machine. BUT they are left attached to nothing in the contactor. Is this normal? What is the reason for it if not?
    inkedmonarch_10ee_image_contactorassemblyrewired_li.jpg

    I tagged every wire in three places.
    I used the new Dymo labels that are specifically for wire.
    monarch_10ee_image_dcpanelwiretags.jpg

  13. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    I had to replace some wires that were damaged and decided to replace all the wiring and redo the conduits, eliminating the annoying metal tubing Monarch used and replacing that with flexible gray conduit (the good stuff not smurf).

    DC Panel rewired
    monarch_10ee_image_dcpanelrewired.jpg

    Main Contactor Rewired
    monarch_10ee_image_contactorassemblyrewired.jpg
    ...
    That all looks nice, with one problem: white and green wires should not be used for general purpose connections; they have special meanings in standard AC wiring practice. Green wires should only be used for safety ground wires. White wires should always be at ground potential.

    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    ...
    These two white wires go to the green on button on the on/off button panel in the front of the machine. BUT they are left attached to nothing in the contactor. Is this normal? What is the reason for it if not?
    inkedmonarch_10ee_image_contactorassemblyrewired_li.jpg
    ...
    We've already discussed this. They're for the connection between the step-down transformer and the pilot light in the start stop station:
    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    ...
    I tagged every wire in three places.
    I used the new Dymo labels that are specifically for wire.
    monarch_10ee_image_dcpanelwiretags.jpg
    Nice. Do those labels require a special printer?

    Cal

  14. #192
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    Tom,

    Please post a photo of the build tag on the front of the base, to the right of the access door for the MG. Thanks.

    Cal

  15. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    Nice. Do those labels require a special printer?
    Generally. Portable, thermal, several choices.

    Industrial | DYMO | Label Makers & Printers, Labels, CardScan, LabelWriter

    XTLTM (XTL) | DYMO | Label Makers & Printers, Labels, CardScan, LabelWriter

  16. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal Haines View Post
    Tom,

    Please post a photo of the build tag on the front of the base, to the right of the access door for the MG. Thanks.

    Cal
    Cal,

    Here is the machine tag

    monarch_10ee_image_machinetag.jpg

    I used the Dymo Rhino 4200 label maker as shown in Thermite's link.

    Re: the white wires...yes, I remembered that but couldn't find where the posts where. Now that Thermite has told me about the thread tools I have it marked.

    So that I know the functionality, without the step down transformer, the green light will not illuminate on the start button? (obviously because the light is a 12v apparatus)

    My machine did not have a step down transformer, and I did buy the one from the link you mentioned, so I will install it since I bought a new start button switch as the bulbs were no longer available for the original
    Last edited by dinotom; 05-11-2020 at 05:01 AM.

  17. #195
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    Thanks for the photo.

    I'm glad to see that the Dymo label makers that work with heat-shrink tubing have come down in price and that there are now third-party labels available. About 15 years ago, I bought one of those for a project at my last job and they were very pricey.

    Brother has a label that can be used for wire flagging. Both the printer and the labels are significantly less expensive than the Dymo products:
    img14475.jpg


    Cal


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