Restoration of Monarch 10EE Serial#26080 Delivered on 11/2/1944 to Buick - Page 6
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  1. #101
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    Cal has asked me to look the copper over.

    All brushes must be free in the holders. They are nearly full length in the photo.
    Any that are removed must go back in the same place and not flipped over. Very important on the exciter.
    If they are not in orig. location and orientation, you need to reseat them before proceeding.

    Main generator brushes the brush farthest from the bearing has a good looking commutator under them.
    The "brown penny" look is a bit darker than normal, but still looks good.

    The brush nearest the bearing may not have the same pressure as the other (too light).
    The commutator wear looks to be less and the "brown penny" look hasn't properly formed.
    The brushes may not have been seated properly, or one brush may not be the same hardness (too hard) as the others.

    I would inspect the generator brushes but not disconnect the wire from brush holder. It makes it fool proof to get them back in the same place.
    They should have the same shiny surface on all 4 brushes and the same P/N markings.
    Insure that the spring pressure is in the same notch on all 4, one of the top 2 may not be the same.
    I would NOT go any farther unless there is a very compelling reason to do so.
    It is very easy to cause more problems that can require much time and effort to correct.

    If you post pictures of the spindle motor brushes and commutator finish, Cal will give me a ring to look things over.

    Bill

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitandmiss View Post
    Cal has asked me to look the copper over.

    If you post pictures of the spindle motor brushes and commutator finish, Cal will give me a ring to look things over.

    Bill
    Thanks Bill
    I do not have the spindle motor out yet and have guests here for the weekend. I hope to pull it out Sunday afternoon once they've left. I will post some pictures then.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinotom View Post
    Thanks Bill
    I do not have the spindle motor out yet and have guests here for the weekend. I hope to pull it out Sunday afternoon once they've left. I will post some pictures then.
    Further to (other) Bill's comment on matching brand & P/N of a "set" of brushes?

    One of the 3 HP large-frame (four brush) motors I acquired had three DIFFERENT makes of brush in it. The fourth brush was ... missing ... outright. They'll RUN on two, so long as they are an oposing pair. But it ain't RIGHT!

    BTW. None of the three was a Helwig Carbon brush - the ones Monarch furnish NOW.
    One was from one of Helwig's major remaining US-made competitors - or so they appear to be.

    The other two maker's were found, historically, but long gone as active biznesses.

    Making "appropriate" brushes is an art and science. The materials are compounded for a combination of thermal conductivity and "lubricity" as well as electrical conductivity. All factors are chosen to suit the specific application "class". They are not just interchangeably dumb slabs of carbon.

    Same again with that old penny layer of Copper. Per Reliance, it is crucial to a balance of conductivity and lubricity. Annnd.... it only forms and sustains itself in a rather narrow temperature / current-flow band. "Imperfection" as to its formation can have a cause as simple as running with too LIGHT a load - testing with not even a gearbox or belt? DAMHIKT!



    So in its own right, it is more than just a comforting "visual" tell-tale of general health.

    It is also functionally essential to best longevity of commutator and brushes alike.

    Your ones don't look THAT bad, should clean up once brushes, holders, and tampers are seen to. But the fotos do show fair deep wear. I'd true 'em if they were mine. YMMV.


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