Restoring 10EE 1954 vintage - Page 17
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 17 of 17 FirstFirst ... 7151617
Results 321 to 328 of 328
  1. #321
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Peralta, NM USA
    Posts
    5,507
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    43
    Likes (Received)
    373

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MachinistBlue View Post
    I think I need to clarify a bit. The lever assembly I am referring to is actually two mechanisms (which are switches). The switch with the lever sets whether the feed rod or the thread rod spins. Coaxial to that mechanism is a round knob actuated range shift mechanism. The shaft that is part of the range shift mechanism is the one I think there is no seal for. I include the section drawing that I have that shows the threaded collar I am having trouble with. That collar is circled in red. Next to that collar is a gap where the waxy string came out of. Next to that gap is bushing. There does not seem to be any space where an oil seal could go.
    Ahh, the other right . Here's a shot of the assembled shaft coming out of the gearbox on my '56:

    lever1.jpg

    and here's the lever back:

    lever2.jpg

    There's only a square key between the 2. The knob is held on only by a taper pin. Here's a shot with the collar removed:

    lever3.jpg

    In mine it's graphited yarn, aka packing. I suspect that what's happening is that something's in the threads, maybe some old packing. Bend a bit of wire and be sure that you can run it through the threads making sure that they're clean.

    Looking at 201073 I expect that going from the outside in there's this threaded collar, the packing, then finally a bushing. Make sure that the threads are clear out from the bushing, slip it over the inner shaft and repack until the collar is tightish against the packing but the smaller shaft still moves easily enough. Don't try all this without the inner shaft in place

    I probably have some of the packing around, I use it in steam engine valves and such. Let me know if you need some, likely that won't use more than a foot or so.

    Here's a section of the gearbox print showing all this:

    lever4.jpg

    It seems to show the threaded collar (SK-1783), something, then a bushing (K-140). I think the something is the packing.

    (Sorry if this is somewhat incoherent, it's been edited 4 times after multiple shop trips)

  2. Likes daryl bane liked this post
  3. #322
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Maryland
    Posts
    108
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    9

    Default Seal

    Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the shaft in question. It all looks very similar to what I am looking at. And thank you for the offer of the string. I might take you up on it but if I recall the string I pulled out looked to be in decent shape. The section drawing does not seem to imply anything goes in there...but the string idea seems like at least something. I gave some thought to sticking some o-rings in there.....not sure if that would be any better.

    BTW..different topic...does anyone recall if there is a gasket between the apron and the saddle? I was hoping to hang the apron this weekend but just recalled that maybe I am missing a gasket.

    -Walt

  4. #323
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Peralta, NM USA
    Posts
    5,507
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    43
    Likes (Received)
    373

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MachinistBlue View Post
    Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the shaft in question. It all looks very similar to what I am looking at. And thank you for the offer of the string. I might take you up on it but if I recall the string I pulled out looked to be in decent shape. The section drawing does not seem to imply anything goes in there...but the string idea seems like at least something. I gave some thought to sticking some o-rings in there.....not sure if that would be any better.
    There's a seal for the outer shaft, so there's going to be something seal the inner as well, and the packing is the only thing in there to do it. If you look at the threaded bit it's got something of a inner cone shape to press the packing in against the shaft. You might make something to work with o-rings if you can find o-rings with the right cross section (you'd want something that would give a little squish - something like .007 with a round section should be good) but really, packing is almost ideal for a rotating member like this.

    BTW..different topic...does anyone recall if there is a gasket between the apron and the saddle? I was hoping to hang the apron this weekend but just recalled that maybe I am missing a gasket.
    No gasket. Harry Bloom had to shim his to get the apron at the right height with the saddle mounted. You can check the height from the bottom of the saddle to the top of the lead screw, it's a nice value in imperial units (something like 3 1/2", but that's an old and untrusted memory) or feed rod (6.375"? again memory). If that's the same at the left side down to the leadscrew exiting the gearbox and on the right side down to the leadscrew where it enters the rear bearing mount you're in good shape for all of the half nut engagement, the feed rod and the ELSR control if you have one, and the apron pinion will mesh with the rack to drive the saddle right If you mess with the interface between them the power cross feed gearing will change mesh.

  5. #324
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Maryland
    Posts
    108
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    9

    Default Assembling gear box

    I apologize for not posting recently. I was out of the country for 4 weeks and the last two have been a mad game of catch up.

    The assembly work continues. I had to fiddle around a lot with the thread/feed switch (lower right handle) to get things to work nicely. I have gotten pretty good at assembling and taking things apart. I only had to pull the gearbox in/out twice from the base but now I think it is in there for good. I was able to install the thread rod and feed rod through the apron into the gearbox output flanges but I have not checked the heights yet of the rods as was suggested.

    I am now focusing on cleaning up the left side of the machine where the pulleys and belts reside. Just more of the tedious clean, strip, prime and paint routine. I drained the box for the back gear transmission and need to clean up the oil level sight glass. I have not decided what to do with the main power shutoff box but I really do not like it on the back of the base. And all of the large covers need more cleaning and stripping before primer.

    Overall there is progress...just slow due to all the handwork. I really should put the kids to task on this stuff.

    -Walt

  6. #325
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Maryland
    Posts
    108
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    9

    Default Seeking advice

    I could use some advise for two issues.

    1. The electronics control box...I recall a thread where Daryl did an awesome job cleaning up the rear of the box where a lot of the wires terminate onto a stud. I was wondering if I should bother spraying down that backside and taking a toothbrush to kind of clean it up. I was never sure how Daryl got his so clean..but I thought maybe some WD40 would help? I am not sure if I am getting myself into trouble poking around all those connections. This is what I am looking at

    monarch_eebox_13aug2018.jpg
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Sj...V_Ox5NPxVf9F9l

    2. I am about to assemble everything on the saddle. I am taking the advice to freshen up the way surfaces by doing a little scraping. This is my first try at adding "frosting". I am looking at the way surfaces at my mill as a model but I don't think I have the density or the depth of these things right. Would someone comment if this looks sufficient?

    monarch_frosting_13aug2018.jpg
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=15f...QKBcsJ7eFoKqkc

    Thanks in advance for any help given.

    -Walt

  7. #326
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    dallas,tx
    Posts
    2,419
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    463
    Likes (Received)
    412

    Default

    I can't remember how I cleaned it. My faulty memory sort of remembers that it was pretty clean to begin with. I have one of those siphon sprayer things that looks like a blowgun but with a fitting out the end that you stick in a bucket of whatever. I think a spray with Simple Green and a soft brush followed by a clean rinse might do the trick and then set out in the sun to dry.

  8. #327
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Arizona
    Posts
    3,384
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    675
    Likes (Received)
    405

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MachinistBlue View Post
    I could use some advise for two issues.

    1. The electronics control box...I recall a thread where Daryl did an awesome job cleaning up the rear of the box where a lot of the wires terminate onto a stud. I was wondering if I should bother spraying down that backside and taking a toothbrush to kind of clean it up. I was never sure how Daryl got his so clean..but I thought maybe some WD40 would help? I am not sure if I am getting myself into trouble poking around all those connections. This is what I am looking at

    monarch_eebox_13aug2018.jpg
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Sj...V_Ox5NPxVf9F9l
    ...
    Absolutely DO NOT use WD-40 to clean it! There are zero-residue electronics cleaners out there, but an old toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol (99% pure) or distilled water will do the trick just fine. You can use a bar of pure Ivory soap with distilled water if necessary, just get a little soap on the toothbrush and work gently, rinse away all soap when done. Just make sure that the panel and wiring has plenty of time to dry after cleaning, especially if the humidity is high where you are. 99% Isopropyl is zero residue and is often used for cleaning expensive optics, etc.

    You can do a search for "how to clean antique radio chassis" for other tips. Believe it or not, one method of cleaning radio chassis is to run them through the dishwasher, but I wouldn't recommend that.

    Please post before and after photos an let us know what worked for you.

    Cal

  9. #328
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    22,985
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    7122

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MachinistBlue View Post
    I could use some advise for two issues.

    1. The electronics control box...I recall a thread where Daryl did an awesome job cleaning up the rear of the box where a lot of the wires terminate onto a stud. I was wondering if I should bother spraying down that backside and taking a toothbrush to kind of clean it up. I was never sure how Daryl got his so clean..but I thought maybe some WD40 would help? I am not sure if I am getting myself into trouble poking around all those connections.
    Trouble you SHOULD have because one or more of the wires - longer ones usually, may have fatigued from vibration, cracked right at the solder or terminal joint, and find itself being held there only by the stiffness of wires and accumulated varnish in the fossilized cambric sleeve. It is a GOOD thing to find those and repair them, as sometimes they are "intermittent" connections to a relay and make for gnarly-mysterious part-time faulting.

    As to what "soup"? Isopropanol or ethanol - denatured alcohol that does NOT use Methyl spirits. Look for Crown's white and green-labeled organic, all natural or wotever they are calling it this week at Big Box. Methanol damages markings, brains, eyes, etc. among other things.

    For a bit more spend, CRC electrical cleaner to finish-up. We USED to use Freon, but you know what happened to that.

    2. I am about to assemble everything on the saddle. I am taking the advice to freshen up the way surfaces by doing a little scraping. This is my first try at adding "frosting". I am looking at the way surfaces at my mill as a model but I don't think I have the density or the depth of these things right. Would someone comment if this looks sufficient?
    Perhaps you covered it earlier, but what is more important is how your transfer straightedge "printed" the accuracy of the corrective scraping job that preceded the flaking.

    It only looks "cosmetic", and is not applied until the surface under it has already been brought back to dead-true or near-as-dammit by scraping for alignment. Hopefully, you did that already, did it well, and I just missed it.

    Scraping and flaking are "preferably" applied to the underside of the upper surface where two meet, the lower, upward-facing surface left smooth to make for more effective wiping.

    The depressions trap wear particles and any other grit or trash they CAN trap as well as oil, the "tackifiers" in way oil HELP them trap crap to be carried under the surfaces and do the dirty. We benefit if gravity is helping the pumped circulation flow get that s**t OUT, rather than holding it IN.

    Not that it is a disaster, either way. The amount of use and wear vs "TLC" a "retired" 10EE gets in its fourth life or so, it could be another fifty or a hundred years before it even matters.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
2